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Everything posted by V3DPrinting

  1. Topic can be closed. I have recreated one in the Cura section, which is more appropriate.
  2. I forgot to mention that printing with a 0,6 nozzle with a profile derived from the AA 0.4 works fine, no elephant foot at all. And yes, I am using 3D Solex Hardcores, so I am able to swap nozzles. Also I have noticed an excess of material on the top layers Has anyone a clue ?
  3. Hi to all I am trying to print with a 0,8 mm nozzle on my S5, using Cura 4,0. I have used the printcore AA 0,8 profile and printed a calibration cube in PLA, 200 microns resolution I have done some tuning on the temps (nozzle and bed) and material flow, but whatever I set, I still have an elephant foot on all the solid infill layers. So the 5 first layers are consistently at 30,5 mm for a cube of 30 mm side, for the rest of the layers I have a 30 mm +/- 0,05 cube. See picture Thanks for your feedback David
  4. Yes aluminium plate would have been great ! But the project was cancelled at Ultimaker, so we would get an extra glass plate. I am thinking of having some glass plates done by my local supplier for my S5. It's not cheaper, but I suspect quality is better as far as I can see on my Mankati.
  5. Sorry I clarify my point. Printing ABS with PVA doesn't work well for warping, not consistent compared to Dimafix spray.
  6. Hi Kman Being a service provider, PVA is a PITA to manage (application, removal) so I use sprays mostly. Printing ABS with PVA doesn't make the trick, generally I go with Dimafix, but for that specific grade 3D Lac is sufficient. I use glass plates from my local supplier on a Mankati Full-scale XT Plus, 4mm heat tempered glass made to measures, without chipping issues so far. What's why I'm wondering if there isn't an issue with the genuine Ultimaker S5 glass plate.... BTW it would have been good to have the aluminium build plate.
  7. In addition, finishing the print run, I had another time the same chipping issue. Hopefully it was on the same glassplate. So now it is really dead on both sides. Has someone had the same issues with the S5 glass plates ?
  8. That's unconsistent under extrusion to me, like a partially clogged nozzle or wrong settings (extrusion multiplier too low or printing too fast or hot end temperature too low) Could you please indicate your settings and material used ? David
  9. Dear community members I have an S5 for 3 months or so and I'm suddenly facing issues with the glass plate chipping when printing with modified ABS (FormFutura Titan X). I print on 2 Ultimaker 3 Extended for more than a year and know that PETG is prone to do that sort of damages. Mainly if the first layer is too squished. I print on the plate with a very thin layer of 3D Lac (not Dimafix) with a moderately hot bed : 80°C (minimum temp according to FormFutura guidelines). First layer is not squished at all. The print finished yesterday around 10 pm and I
  10. Good news! The print completed in 2h20 without any issues, printing with the Hardcore + 0.6 Everlast nozzle So the problem was too much moisture in the filament.
  11. I have finally managed to make the test. I am successfully printing ColorFabb PA CF with an 3d Solex Hardcore + 0.6 Everlast nozzle for now more than 1h without any flaws on an UM3. The part is a gear printed at 150 microns layer height, 270°C printing temperature, 50°C Bed, 70 mm/s print speed with infill speed at 40 mm/s, fan 20%. So with the same parameters as in the failed tests. The only difference is the spool had been dried for 6 hours at 70°C early this week and kept in a sealed bag or a dry box since. BTW, the print surface is very good now, wh
  12. I have dried the filament for 6 hours at 70°C on Monday. I have made a perfect 2h print with it on my printer with E3D V6. So there is a relationship between moisture and softening temperature. Filament needs to be very dry in order not to soften too much. I still need to do a test on UM with the Hardcore. I expect to do it this afternoon
  13. I am now facing the same jamming issues on my printer with E3D V6, but after 1 hour printing approx. Parts which printed well on wednesday are now jamming the hotend (0.2 mm layer height, 280°C, Bed 50°C, speed 40mm/s) Same for parts printed at 0,15mm layer height, 270°C, speed 40 mm/s I have lowered the temp to 265°C for 0,15mm layer height keeping speed at 40 mm/s in order to maintain the flow. I have also opened the front of the printer to decrease the temp of the air cooling the hotend. Still jamming the hotend after 1 hour printing. That confirms the
  14. John It is not easy to create the right conditions with that material as print speed is pretty low (30 - 40 mm/s) and temp pretty high 280°C for a 0,2 mm layer height. Increasing the nozzle diameter will lead to a temp increase so increase the problem. I print some grades of ABS at high temp : 270°C with the 3D Solex hardcore. No issues at all. Of course it's with a standard 0,4 brass nozzle, but it doesn't have any impact on the current problem. I have also printed ColorFabb HT on UM3 with the Hardcore without issues. Printing Temp is also 270°C T
  15. No it's a single extrusion job, so only one print core involved. Here's a picture of the old version 2017 on the left and the new one 2018 on the right. Less fins on the new version. And less than the original Printcore. Agreed. Maybe gluing thermistors on the dissipator would give some indications, but that means testing equipment and time. Being a service provider, I don't have the time for that. Yes maybe Carl @swordriff or @gr5 have an idea on how to solve the problem, linked to that particular filament. I haven'
  16. As the issue appears in the very first layers and the nozzle itself is not clogged at all, the print core is not cooling properly for that special filament. Or more precisely, the filament thermal conductivity is much higher so the heat is building up in the filament more easily. I printed the same part on UM S5, same settings or so, same print core but standard 0.6 brass nozzle, with ColorFabb PA Neat without any issues. Interesting. I have managed to print a bigger part with PA CF at 0.1 layer height with an E3D v6 and 0.6 nozzle without any
  17. On UM3 I have Bondtech QR 3.0 extruders. On UM S5, my last attempt it's stock. Layer height is 150 microns, bed 50°C nozzle 270°C. I've used the standard speeds for Nylon settings in both cases.
  18. Hi I am trying to print Carbon Filled PA from ColorFabb on my Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker S5, but I am having some jamming in the print core. I am using 3d Solex Hardcore with an EverLast 0.6 nozzle. The heat builds up in the hardcore, so the filament softens well after the heat break and jams the hardcore up to the bowden tube if the print is left unattended. It is my second attempt, on the first one the Hardcore was new and after some tests was not able to print even with PLA due to a defect in the heatbreak, Thanks to Carl from 3d Solex, the iss
  19. The reason why I wanted some Z offset is because, even if the leveling has improved a bit, the first layer is too thought. I use also a mesh bed leveling on a Duet3d powered printer for more than a year, and I like the ability of baby stepping. It helps fine tune the first layer specially with materials that require high temp nozzle and bed. It would be good to have the G92 working in the next release and the baby stepping in the near future. But please don’t mess up the UM3 firmware when retrofitting the S5 improvements.
  20. Agreed. Your plugin is correct. The issue is on the firmware. I haven't retested the plugin on the UM3, as they are busy, but when I used it, it worked. So I presume the issue is only on the S5 firmware for now.
  21. The code generated is attached. First move is 0,37 (0,27 first layer height + 0,1 z offset). so it's correct. But there is a G92 just after resetting the origin to 0.27. I believe this one is not properly interpreted by the firmware. UMS5_battery_en_long.gcode
  22. Hi to all I have created a print job under Cura 3,6 using a Z Offset (with the plugin) to be printed on Ultimaker S5. The idea is to avoid squeeching the first layer on the build plate when printing with PETG and destroy the glass plate. I'm got the problem on UM3. There is a major improvement with the new bed leveling process on S5, but still first layer is a bit thin when hotend and build plate are hot. I set up the Offset to 0,1mm first. As a result, the first layer was printed in the air, 10 mm above the buildplate I then set up the offset to 0
  23. I had some time this week and been able to re install everything not using any export. It works ! Either on UM3 or S5. The override issue on Cura Connect is only on the first material and on the S5. If you override the second material, the print starts without any issues.
  24. I've done some more testing. First I have noticed, after tinkering around with the materials, that the warning in Cura on the material as disappeared, without playing with the profiles. So there is maybe an issue with my cura application support folder (I'm on Mac) Having that said, I have recreated from the Generic PLA my ColorFabb, changed my filament, going to a ColorFabb Black PLA and loading it with the PLA profile non NFC. I made a first test using the default Fast profile, sent to Cura Connect, and the job had been assigned to the S5 and print has sta
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