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Posts posted by V3DPrinting

  1. Hi to all


    I am trying to print with a 0,8 mm nozzle on my S5, using Cura 4,0.


    I have used the printcore AA 0,8 profile and printed a calibration cube in PLA, 200 microns resolution


    I have done some tuning on the temps (nozzle and bed) and material flow, but whatever I set, I still have an elephant foot on all the solid infill layers.


    So the 5 first layers are consistently at 30,5 mm for a cube of 30 mm side, for the rest of the layers I have a 30 mm +/- 0,05 cube.


    See picture



    Thanks for your feedback



  2. 38 minutes ago, MitchL said:

    I need to stock up on build plates I suppose!


    (by the way, weren't we supposed to get aluminum plates a long time ago?)



    Yes aluminium plate would have been great ! But the project was cancelled at Ultimaker, so we would get an extra glass plate.


    I am thinking of having some glass plates done by my local supplier for my S5.

    It's not cheaper, but I suspect quality is better as far as I can see on my Mankati.

  3. Hi Kman


    Being a service provider, PVA is a PITA to manage (application, removal) so I use sprays mostly.


    Printing ABS with PVA doesn't make the trick, generally I go with Dimafix, but for that specific grade 3D Lac is sufficient.


    I use glass plates from my local supplier on a Mankati Full-scale XT Plus, 4mm heat tempered glass made to measures, without chipping issues so far.


    What's why I'm wondering if there isn't an issue with the genuine Ultimaker S5 glass plate....


    BTW it would have been good to have the aluminium build plate.


  4. Dear community members


    I have an S5 for 3 months or so and I'm suddenly facing issues with the glass plate chipping when printing with modified ABS (FormFutura Titan X).

    I print on 2 Ultimaker 3 Extended for more than a year and know that PETG is prone to do that sort of damages. Mainly if the first layer is too squished.


    I print on the plate with a very thin layer of 3D Lac (not Dimafix) with a moderately hot bed : 80°C (minimum temp according to FormFutura guidelines). First layer is not squished at all.


    The print finished yesterday around 10 pm and I removed it today at 10 am. So it was at room temp.

    I had some slices of glass chipped off the build plate. Here's a picture, though not easy to take.


    I had the same issues yesterday with the same material, but different parts and using the other side of the plate.


    As the adhesion is moderate with 3D Lac, I suspect that the build plate have some flaws / quality issues.


    Thanks for your feedback



  5. I have finally managed to make the test. I am successfully printing ColorFabb PA CF with an 3d Solex Hardcore + 0.6 Everlast nozzle for now more than 1h without any flaws on an UM3.


    The part is a gear printed at 150 microns layer height, 270°C printing temperature, 50°C Bed, 70 mm/s print speed with infill speed at 40 mm/s, fan 20%.

    So with the same parameters as in the failed tests.


    The only difference is the spool had been dried for 6 hours at 70°C early this week and kept in a sealed bag or a dry box since.


    BTW, the print surface is very good now, which wasn't the case previously.


    There is a direct relationship between the level of moisture in the filament and the softening of the filament. This led to print core jamming in the previous tests with that particular filament.


    So ensure that the ColorFabb PA CF is very dry before starting any print with the Hardcore.


    Capture d’écran 2019-01-05 à 16.42.16.png

  6. I am now facing the same jamming issues on my printer with E3D V6, but after 1 hour printing approx.

    Parts which printed well on wednesday are now jamming the hotend (0.2 mm layer height, 280°C, Bed 50°C, speed 40mm/s)

    Same for parts printed at 0,15mm layer height, 270°C, speed 40 mm/s


    I have lowered the temp to 265°C for 0,15mm layer height keeping speed at 40 mm/s in order to maintain the flow. I have also opened the front of the printer to decrease the temp of the air cooling the hotend.

    Still jamming the hotend after 1 hour printing.


    That confirms the fact that the filament itself is drawing up the heat past the heatbreak, as the E3D V6 are very good hotends.


    The spool has been opened in may '18 and kept in a dry box, even when printing.

    There might be some slight moisture in the filament as the surface finish is not as good as the very first print done in May.


    I am wondering if there is a relationship between the softening temperature and moisture level in the filament.


    I will dry the spool tomorrow 


    Any help appreciated.

  7. John


    It is not easy to create the right conditions with that material as print speed is pretty low (30 - 40 mm/s) and temp pretty high 280°C for a 0,2 mm layer height.

    Increasing the nozzle diameter will lead to a temp increase so increase the problem.


    I print some grades of ABS at high temp : 270°C with the 3D Solex hardcore. No issues at all. Of course it's with a standard 0,4 brass nozzle, but it doesn't have any impact on the current problem.

    I have also printed ColorFabb HT on UM3 with the Hardcore without issues. Printing Temp is also 270°C


    To me it is the material itself who creates the problem first.

    Then maybe the thermal dissipation of Hardcore + fans is not sufficient and the filament above the heatbreak reaches the glass transition temperature, softens and jams the print core.


    So I am curious to see in details the Printcore CC to understand how they overcome that challenge.

  8. 22 minutes ago, JohnInOttawa said:

    That's an excellent analysis.  I had not noticed the different cooling fin configuration.  Are you heating both print cores for this work?


    No it's a single extrusion job, so only one print core involved.


    Here's a picture of the old version 2017 on the left and the new one 2018 on the right.

    Less fins on the new version. And less than the original Printcore.


    22 minutes ago, JohnInOttawa said:


    I don't know of any way to get a temperature reading on the print core fins.  A thermal imager would be best as it would not interfere with airflow like a probe would, but with the fan in place and lateral airflow affecting boundary conditions that's impossible.  Indirect measurement like exhaust air temperature would be misleading if the problem is that the fins can't shed heat fast enough.  A direct contact measurement would carry all sorts of risks, not least of which would be detachment and collision with one of the fans.


    Agreed. Maybe gluing thermistors on the dissipator would give some indications, but that means testing equipment and time.

    Being a service provider, I don't have the time for that.


    22 minutes ago, JohnInOttawa said:

    I don't know of a practical way to feed colder air into that fan.


    It sounds like 3D Solex has been actively engaged, I know @gr5 would have a wealth of technical knowledge on these cores, hopefully there is a path forward from their help.


    Thanks again for sharing - it will ultimately help everyone.




    Yes maybe Carl @swordriff or @gr5 have an idea on how to solve the problem, linked to that particular filament.


    I haven't tried yet Glass Fiber filled nylon, but I may as I'm working on some replacement parts with a customer that requires XSTRAND GF30 PA.

    I know it has been qualified on the UM S5 and some material settings are available, so it works with the PrintCore CC at least.

    It would be good if it also works on the Hardcore with Everlast 0,6 nozzle, as I already have it.


  9. 10 hours ago, JohnInOttawa said:

    Hmmm.  That sounds like a frustrating challenge.


    So is the print core suffering excessive heat creep up the heat break, or is the filament loitering in the print core too long, or is the nozzle itself experiencing some sort of local clogging at the tip that is causing things to back up? 


    As the issue appears in the very first layers and the nozzle itself is not clogged at all, the print core is not cooling properly for that special filament.

    Or more precisely, the filament thermal conductivity is much higher so the heat is building up in the filament more easily.


    I printed the same part on UM S5, same settings or so, same print core but standard 0.6 brass nozzle, with ColorFabb PA Neat without any issues.



    10 hours ago, JohnInOttawa said:

    I see Colorfabb recommends a minimum layer height of 0.2 which is a bit higher than you are using.  I know when I printed Colorfabb Copperfill, I created a similar problem for myself when I went to a layer height below 0.2, of interest I was also using a 3D Solex print core, but with a steel nozzle.  I was able to print for about 90 minutes before things clogged.  I know there is a warning about copperfill conducting heat so one needs to keep it moving at a pretty fair clip.  Maybe the minimum layer height and width for the 0.6 nozzle is intended to mitigate the heat migration by keeping a fresh supply of relatively cool material flowing into the heat break?



    I have managed to print a bigger part with PA CF at 0.1 layer height with an E3D v6 and 0.6 nozzle without any clogging or jamming issue.

    The only point was that some carbon fiber was more visible on the surface. 


    Same for the part I have tried yesterday at 0.15 layer height. Less carbon fiber visible though.


    When ColorFabb released initially the material, recommended layer height was 0.15 but nozzle was not specified.

    As the main problem with filled materials is the filling clogging the nozzle, using an higher bore nozzle helps a lot. 


    10 hours ago, JohnInOttawa said:


    Just curious, I imagine you are using an enclosure on the front.  Anything on top?  I wonder if there is any chance the bowden tube is pre-hearing - not to nozzle temp of course, but even a delta of 10C would put it that much closer to its softening regime upon entry into the print core.


    Yes my printers are enclosed on the front and top, but the top is left open, so the heat is not accumulating. 


    10 hours ago, JohnInOttawa said:


    Final thought, if this is straight up heat creep in the print core, any chance the print core cooling fan is encountering issues or blockage? 


    As as the first attempt on UM3 was already having these issues, I have checked and cleaned the printcore cooling fan before starting the second attempt on UM S5


    My though is the cooling on the hardcore is not sufficient for that special filament, as there are less fins on the cooling part and maybe the print head fan is not that efficient for the two print cores to be cooled.


    I am curious to see the Printcore CC and reviews printing ColorFabb PA CF with it.

    • Thanks 1
  10. Hi


    I am trying to print Carbon Filled PA from ColorFabb on my Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker S5, but I am having some jamming in the print core.


    I am using 3d Solex Hardcore with an EverLast 0.6 nozzle.


    The heat builds up in the hardcore, so the filament softens well after the heat break and jams the hardcore up to the bowden tube if the print is left unattended.


    It is my second attempt, on the first one the Hardcore was new and after some tests was not able to print even with PLA due to a defect in the heatbreak, Thanks to Carl from 3d Solex, the issue had been fixed very quickly and efficiently.


    This second attempt, I took an Hardcore which was performing well with a 0,6 brass nozzle, swapped the nozzle by a 0,6 Everlast nozzle and started to print.


    Anyone had the same issues ?


    Anyone printing ColorFabb PA CF on Ultimaker ?


    I've ended printing the customer order on a printer with E3D V6 and hardened steel 0,6 nozzle, printing like a charm.


  11. 45 minutes ago, nallath said:

    I only got the story in second handed (I'm not in the firmware team anymore for quite some time now) but the G92 not working has to do with the bed leveling.


    The reason why I wanted some Z offset is because, even if the leveling has improved a bit, the first layer is too thought.


    I use also a mesh bed leveling on a Duet3d powered printer for more than a year, and I like the ability of baby stepping. It helps fine tune the first layer specially with materials that require high temp nozzle and bed.


    It would be good to have the G92 working in the next release and the baby stepping in the near future.


    But please don’t mess up the UM3 firmware when retrofitting the S5 improvements. 

  12. 32 minutes ago, ahoeben said:


    That's what the Z Offset plugin is supposed to do. It makes it so that all the subsequent layers are also offset.


    Someone from the UM S5 firmware team is going to have to chime in why G92 does not work as expected on an S5.


    Agreed. Your plugin is correct. The issue is on the firmware.


    I haven't retested the plugin on the UM3, as they are busy, but when I used it, it worked.

    So I presume the issue is only on the S5 firmware for now.

  13. 18 hours ago, ahoeben said:

    I'm the creator of the Z Offset plugin. I'll admit I have never tested the plugin with an S5 (or an UM3 for that matter). Could you try saving the gcode to a file, and inspect the first move on the first layer?


    The code generated is attached. First move is 0,37 (0,27 first layer height + 0,1 z offset). so it's correct.

    But there is a G92 just after resetting the origin to 0.27.

    I believe this one is not properly interpreted by the firmware.


  14. Hi to all


    I have created a print job under Cura 3,6 using a Z Offset (with the plugin) to be printed on Ultimaker S5.


    The idea is to avoid squeeching the first layer on the build plate when printing with PETG and destroy the glass plate. I'm got the problem on UM3.

    There is a major improvement with the new bed leveling process on S5, but still first layer is a bit thin when hotend and build plate are hot.


    I set up the Offset to 0,1mm first. As a result, the first layer was printed in the air, 10 mm above the buildplate

    I then set up the offset to 0,01mm, same result


    I'm running the S5 with latest firmware : 5.1.7


    I believe it's a bug in the firmware, not in Cura, as it worked before on UM3.d


  15. On 11/29/2018 at 3:26 PM, Smithy said:

    Good news!



    Don't forget to delete everything below the folder ~/Library/Application Support/cura, but double check that you have saved or written down all your profiles and customizations before.


    I had some time this week and been able to re install everything not using any export.


    It works ! Either on UM3 or S5.


    The override issue on Cura Connect is only on the first material and on the S5. If you override the second material, the print starts without any issues.

  16. I've done some more testing.


    First I have noticed, after tinkering around with the materials, that the warning in Cura on the material as disappeared, without playing with the profiles. So there is maybe an issue with my cura application support folder (I'm on Mac)


    Having that said, I have recreated from the Generic PLA my ColorFabb, changed my filament, going to a ColorFabb Black PLA and loading it with the PLA profile non NFC.


    I made a first test using the default Fast profile, sent to Cura Connect, and the job had been assigned to the S5 and print has started.

    Then I took my custom profile and sent it to Cura Connect and the job had been assigned to the S5 and print has started.


    I took an old ColorFabb PLA Black created months ago and used on my UM3 without any issues. The job had been assigned to the S5 and then I had the warning message in Cura Connect and the issue when overriding the material.


    So I agree that the S5 and its environnement is able to print third party materials.

    But there is a bug in Cura Connect, affecting only the S5 when overriding the materials.

    And my Cura 3.6 is somewhere corrupted.


    I will re install from scratch Cura on my Mac, time to write down all my profiles and materials.

  17. 1 minute ago, P3D said:


    Huh? Bowden tubes, nozzles, the whole hotend, almost everything has to be matched to a specific filament diameter. For most printers that's 1,75mm, for others (mainly Ultimaker, these days) it is 2,85mm.


    I agree on that. I was too quick.


    having a 2.85 mm system, the spools you buy don’t always match exactly the nominal diameter

    it’s part of the manufacturing process. So the filaments diameter has to be adjusted to the real one for fine tuning purpose.

    Cura supports that feature, like S3D or any slicer.


    So it is not the reason why I cannot override the material nor why I have a warning.

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