HugoW

Thanks, I think I went overboard on the layer height, then. I print budget PLA, 60 mm.min works very nicely normally. I've printed some 3DLabPrint plane parts, very nice and strong. I've given up on the 230 pieces production, BTW, I cannot promise to finish in time. But it's a great learning experience, thank you. Cheers, Hugo

Thanks. I've looked into it and it seems entirely do-able, with the remark that I have very, very, good bed adhesion, I might need to make that worse to be able to knock it off properly. In the meantime I printed the 32-minute piece, but it looks ugly: I print very slowly (40 mm/s, I usually print at 60) but it still look very bad. What is going on? I made the part slightly less tall which also saves print time, but the angle of the part compared to vertical doesn't seem that impressive, it should still have a decent overlap per layer to the previous layer. Cheers, Hugo

I just redesigned the part and sliced with jonnybischop's suggestion; 32 minutes per piece. Nice! Tomorrow I'll print one and see what comes out. But this seems a great start! Cheers, Hugo

@SandervG; I have a diy design CoreXY machine which, if I may say so, delivers very nice prints. I just upgraded to Kevlar filled belts and an upgrade to Titan Aero is in the works, to be able to print flexible material. I am not too sure what the parts are used for, it’s some sort of airflow director at the end of a low-pressure high volume air line. @jonnybischof; thanks! That is simple and therefore brilliant. @yellowshark; thanks for all the input. I just don’t get the logic behind ‘Print one at a time’. Whatever I do, after printing the first item printing the second will make the printing mechanism hit the first product. I’ll stick to print all at once. I am experimenting with the speed a bit, but with all the jerky start/stop movements speeding up does not give good results. I think after implementing jonnybischof’s idea I might be able to speed up. My printer easily moves 200 mm/s all day without losing steps. I’ll let you knw how it turns out. Thanks all! Hugo

Hi, I’ve been asked to print this part: It’s 40 mm inner diameter at the bottom, total is 75 mm high. I made a proto, looks good, functions well, takes an hour and a half to print. Now I’m asked to print 230 of them… Sounds like a fun project, but it takes a lot of time! I would like to speed things up and I know what I want, but not how to do it. The walls are 1,2 mm wide in the X/Y plane. The inner diameter of the bottom section is 2,4 mm smaller than the outer. I use a 0,4 mm nozzle. At the moment my printer prints one outer wall of 0,4 mm, one inner wall of 0,4 mm and little ‘bridges’ in between: (Sorry for the large pic, for the details) These bridges take a lot of time starting and stopping. How do I tell the program to just print three rows, one inner, one outer and one continues in between? It may take more material but I am sure it will save a lot of time. The upper part of the nozzle, where it becomes wider in X and more narrow in Y, it does print three layers side by side solid. And that part is done very quickly. BTW, I know switching combing off makes the print take a lot longer because of the starting and stopping, but I rather reduce the number of starts and stops than switch combing on. It makes the print resemble the hairy lion if I turn it on. Cheers, Hugo

YES! Thank you, that is it! At least, on the virtual gcode viewer all is visable and the print time makes sense. I will run a large 4 part print tomorrow to see! Thanks, Hugo

Close, but no sigar. Toggling this on and off with one part on the bed indeed switches the internal designed supports on and off. But mine were on, they only switch off (without changing this setting) when I load a second part. Deleting one of the two parts off the bed makes Cura restore the part that is left. It's like adding a second part (order of adding or whatever part is not relevant) enables the "Union Overlapping Volumes" without ticking the box. Really strange... Hugo

Thanks for the reply. I use custom settings, that is those came with the stl files from 3DPrintLab in the package. All I did to it was raise print temp to 230 as this is what they recommend, and I switched off combing as it produced a lot of stringing inside the parts. I took a look at the print sequence as you mention, and it is partly the solution. I just put 4 parts on the virtual bed, each about an hour and a half, and after slicing at "one at a time", I do get 6 hours of printtime. Putting the setting back to "All at once" it is reduced to 3 hours and it misses all internal structure. However, I just started the print sliced at the "One at a time" setting but quickly cancelled; it does indeed print one at a time, which means it completely finishes one part before it starts the next. This causes serious collisions between the print head / machine rails and the first part when the machine starts on the second part. This is not desirable. So, question still open! BTW, I would like to attach the .ini file I received from 3DPrintLab and use on these parts, but this is not an accepted format. Cheers, Hugo

Hi, I've just bought a printable plane from 3DLabPrint and something funny happens. When I load part F3 (part of the fuselage) and slice it, Cura tells me it takes about 2.5 hours. When I load F8, it takes about 2 hours. When I load both, it also takes 2.5 hours for the whole print and all ribs and such inside the part are not converted to G-code! I used a G-code viewer to check. I don't change any settings when loading one or both parts. It also happens on other parts. Load one all is OK, load two or more and the inside of the parts is 'forgotten'. Any ideas what to check / look for? Thanks, Hugo

I've not done much research today, just bought a new house and showed it to the kids. Anyway, I looked for the g-code flavour setting and found it as one of the basic machine settings. It was set at 'RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter)'. That makes sense, as when I started this project a while ago I ran a RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin on it. I remember making that choice, now. It also has a setting 'UltiGCode', probably an Ultimaker special. And last but not least 'Repetier'. I sliced the same file three times and only with the 'UltiGCode' settings I got G10 and G11 codes, and I found them in logical places (I can read G-codes fairly easy, I learned to write them in the beginning of the CNC era). I just wonder why using the regular control of the extruder to retract does not work on my machine, I find F1500 in multiple places and the values seem logical. For instance this part, at start-up: G1 F1500 E-6.5 G0 F5400 X83.718 Y112.914 Z.299 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1500 E0 And away she goes. That basically is at start-up to avoid oozing; Retract 6.5mm Move to start position ; start with laying down the skirt to prime the nozzle Un-retract (English?!?) again And away she goes. But that part seems to be blocked by my controller somewhere, maybe it is a feature in Smoothieware where I should chose one method for retraction, or the other. But I haven't found out where and how, yet. I prefer the normal control of the extruder over using specials like the G10/G11 codes. Hugo

While googling I found this older topic: https://github.com/daid/LegacyCura/issues/1212 It tells me G10 and G11 are not always generated for retraction. Two simple questions; How does Cura retract and "un-retract" if it does not use G10/G11? And why doesn't my printer oblige? I'll go mess about with this g-code flavor, what ever that may be... Cheers, Hugo

I've just added retraction speed from the settings list, it defaults to 25mm/s. OK with me. I have no usual figures, I have a homemade CoreXY printer with the extruder on the XY carriage pressing the filament straight into the hotend. But I don't see the motor retrackting, either. I put an excentric dot on the axle so I can see it move. It paused during travel, it does not reverse a bit (should reverse about 1/4 turn with these settings, that should be visable).

These are the settings I have: I am wondering whether SmoothieWare standard settings and the Cura settings might interfere or something like that. Hugo

Hi, I use Cura 2.3.1 as I have an older PC, but it works. Unfortunately, the retraction does not seem to work. I run Smoothieware and I read Cura should add G10 commands to retract, and G11 to extend again, but there are no such codes in the files Cura generats. And the printer obviously does not retract, I get some rather hairy prints. Please advise, Cheers, Hugo