AbeFM

First off, thanks! I've put g-code in the extruder stop/start places before, but am curious to check out your script. I wanted to note here (maybe relevant?) that the "change at z" script has issues when you have z-hop enabled (specifically, settings don't 'stick'). I don't know if that's an issue for you, but you could check it or keep it in mind. I'm running Marlin as well, really writing up brief instructions would be of general use. Mostly I just wanted to tell you about z-hop. I'll update if I learn more.

Another idea, that I realize gets complicated with a larger number of extruders, would just be to display both nozzles as a double collum. I've kinda always dreamed of this. I spend a lot of time going back and forth - which used to be instant but now takes ~10 seconds.... I guess I'd like to see something like this: Maybe I'll toss it on GitHub and see if it gets a bite.

I'd upload your plate, once worked out, as an STL.

I would REALLY appreciate a simple method to just copy ALL settings from one extruder to another. Yes, there are special circumstances where some people may not want this - my printer with entirely different extruders would be one. But most of my dual nozzle set ups ARE identical, and I can't say the number of times I've gotten a profile from someone or reviewed one of my own where it's a problem. I would be willing to disable one extruder, then re-enable it and have the program ask me to import all setting from active extruder - so I could tune in 1 color then just enable the second. The key here is copying *everything*. Many times the mistake comes from trying to memorize 300 settings then going to the other tab to look fro differences. Alternatively, could you color code settings that are different between extruders? ---- Happened to me today. Got a profile from someone, spent a WHILE trying to even it out between extruders... I have this weird artifact I wanted to report (side effect of zigzag infill?), but it's only on one extruder. Or a check box to grey out ones that are the same, something better someone else thinks of..... 🙂

Probably the easiest thing would be to save several versions (STL's): 5 masks, 0.2 layers 10 masks, 0.15 layers etc. That would be pretty trivial to load. On Prusa's site you could even post pre-sliced code - though if someone can't slice, can they even check that the mask printed right?

I have an IDEX printer, and when one nozzle retracts, and parks, the second nozzle will unretract, then move to the location for the print - often leading to a small blob on the nozzle which ends up on the object. While I have been able to use a prime tower to dump the extra on, I would like to print without using one - prints occasionally fail due to prime tower issues, especially on variable layer heights. Is there a way to ensure the un-retract happens AFTER the extruder switch is complete and the nozzle is above the part, or perhaps as a stop-gap do another retract until the nozzle is at the right spot.

This is what I was thinking, with 3 pyramid "masks" and each has a set of break away legs. It's not as straightforward as I was hoping for though it would work well in an advanced program.

I recently printed a bunch of nested road-cones, with the same concerns - you save a lot of man-hours by just stacking them. I'll often use an external program (like MS 3D Builder) to make a set of objects how I like, then import them. You could add a small cylinder (say, 2mm dia, 5 high or whatever your offset it. Then stacking them in some programs would be trivial. That break away peg would be all that connects them). Similarly, using the numerical input on the "move" command can make it easier to get a regular stack - and save a .3mf to capture it all once you have one that works. Note: github link doesn't work.

It still seems like, if you created said printer (or just update your "normal" one), then select it from the list after loading.

Huh, that last bit is a good suggestion, I think it would work. Thanks!

I wanted to make a simple test print with two flat squares, separated by ~nozzle distance to check if either is scraping the other. Testing the righthand nozzle for scraping while the left is printing means I need to print two objects, and I'd like the lefthand one to print last. Right now I don't see how to do this. Is it easy/possible?

You could create a hybrid, by importing the one with the file, then taking what you want from yours and pasting it in, creating a 'printer' you like....

I had the same question - how to I figure out which setting are "changed" so I know what will copy?

Oh, it could be that the profile was developed on a machine with one extruder disabled..... Still digging....

Howdy! I reinstalled CURA to have a clean build, created two dual extruder FFF printers, and as far as CURA's concerned their only differences are the first printer ("CM2") has one 0.6 mm nozzle and one 0.4 mm, the other ("D3H") has both 0.4 nozzles. EDIT: It looks like it's not the printer, but the profile. I don't see anything in the definitions that should make them behave different - perhaps it's some other setting I have I don't know about, and perhaps it isn't... If somoene knows, I'd really appreciate being able to use my small nozzle for detail work.

I've found I've had to bump the acceleration way down on a printer that never had those issues before.... I keep putting it down, and it keeps coming back. All my skipping has been in Y-axis, and generally turning the speed down helps I'm just digging into it and don't have enough for a coherent post - also I've only been noticing this for a couple months.... I'm more just lurking but if others are seeing it I, too, encourage you to post.

Small point - do you want to use "print temp" or first layer temp?

I've been printing some objects which need a lot of fan to turn off, and I find the layer fan turning off on each hop. Is there some way to prevent this? Given how long the fan takes to restart, this effectively leaves my fan at 30%.

Er, I've got dual extruder printer and the nozzle that is warming up is getting over cooled by the layer fan during the heating stage. Is there something I can do to turn off the fan while the nozzle pre-heats but then set it back to whatever it used to be after we hit the target temperature?

It's WEIRD the temperatures did that, since it followed the model so closely... But it DID work. Thanks for helping with that issue!!

This is with a 0.6 mm Nozzle 1.0 mm line width I'm missing fill between this inner cylinder and the outer funnel. 0.6 mm line width 0.4mm line width My parts end up just hanging off the infill, but I would like to have the gap filled or a floor as is there when I set line width small enough. I miss that layer on both the top and the bottom. I have changed tops, bottoms, walls, etc and the gap persists .RollerMissingLayer.3mf See attached profile.

I deleted it in software the first time. I have a bigger issue - I have multiple projects and multiple printers, so I run multiple copies of CURA concurrently. I suspect I removed the profiles in one copy, closed it, then closed another copy and that's how things got messed up. Under definition_changes and machine_instances I deleted the removed printers, and ... It worked!!! THANKS!

Heh, I was just waiting for the printer to run that test while I checked the forums for replies. Thanks for the advice, I think it's reasonable. It generally seems ok, but I guess it could be temperamental. I'm used to pushing 10-15 mm/s on the Prusa, but that's got E3D bits on it. These are direct drive and don't appear to be slipping, and I don't see missing lines nearly everywhere. --------------------------- I raised the temps a few degrees, and a few more, and the start temps, and it eventually cleaned up. I was at low temps to prevent stringing, though more retraction seems to have helped. It seems to be working so I'm banging out a few test pieces. It seemed pretty weird because a whole part would print with only a couple weak lines, and always in the same spot. What's up with that? I was printing at 194 Print, 190 Start - now I'm at 200/200.

I've seen this in the past, you DO NOT want to click "reset". It pops up every time I open CURA. Can I make this error go away? I don't care if I get my CR-10S profiles back or not, but I don't want to click "reset" and lose all my work from ever. Thanks!

I, too, have been getting blobbing and rough looking parts on my more mechanical prints. Not all of them, but the bigger stuff.