Julian2801

Hey guys, Today I noticed a weird finish of my outer shell. As you can see in the picture, there are some layers that seem to be shifted... The axles are calibrated just fine. I think that this is caused by the Bang Bang bed heating technique, due to that the temperature always is 1 or to 2 degrees too high, before it cools down and so on... I will change that to PID later... Do you have any other ideas what could cause that?

Hey there, I wanted to know, if the UMO+ heater cartridge still has the white green-yellow'ish cable sleeve? I've asked my german reseller now twice to send me an UMO+ heater cartridge but they sent me 2 with a just white sleeve. Since then my UMO+ just randomly powers off during printing... Julian.

Hello, I want to replace my heater cratridge, because it is making nothing but problems on my UMO+... I noticed today, that I'm not able to unscrew the screw, that secures the temp sensor and the heater cartridge.... I already tried with heating it to 150degrees but that doesn't work either.... Do you have any suggestions? Julian.

I (unfortenately) have the same problem. It occurs to me after I swapped out my heater Cartridge... I don't think it is a broken PCB. My guess is that the printer is consuming more power. That means, that the PSU or the heater-cartridge is the wrong one. (I got an UM2 one with 40Watts and 24Volts -> but it should work anyways) Im going to contact my german reseller tomorroe and I'm going to see, what they can say... Have you fixed your problem?

Hey guys. I had to replace my Heater Cartridge yesterday. That works fine now. I shortly noticed that my UMO+ restarts after the cooling fan turns on (2nd layer). I tested it without the fan once and that works fine. My guess is that the printer draws too much power now. The replacement part I installed yesterday is an original part from my german reseller Igo3D.com. Do you know how I can fix that problem? Julian.

To me it looks like you are having issues with layer seams. You would have saw over-extrusion at the whole printed part not only at a few layers. What you can do about that is to change your retraction settings. The important settings to consider are retraction distance and retraction speed. If your retraction distance is not high enough, it will result in plastic oozing out of your nozzle when the printer finishes the outer perimeter. On the other hand, it’s important not to have this value too high as it can increase the chances of clogging your hot end (I believe)