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Link

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Posts posted by Link

  1. 1 hour ago, robinmdh said:

    yes, and we did plan that story, but then the argument was made this would take too much time and suddenly writing to usb sticks that then might be too small would also not be super great, so we did make some scripts to do exactly this but you'll have to ask support about it to get them + instructions. This flow does sadden me but testing and integrating this with the update process would indeed have taken a decent chunk of time...

     

     

    Yes I suppose, have you ever used dd? if not please don't, if yes then you already know how.

    Also 6.2.0  has been released, anyone here install it yet?

     yes, installed. no issues for me

  2. hmmm, yes i can imagine it's not worth the hassle, i am certainly not that bothered about my designs. I guess i was more surprised that there seemed to be such a big market for people buying these models for not (relatively) small amounts of money !, £7 for the flexible octopus is crazy, you only need to sell 3 and cover the cost of 1kg of PLA. And its not like only one person is selling the same model, and they all seem to have a number of feedback ratings suggestinng they are selling !

    maybe i am too relaxed and should really be only designing something for myself and get it straight onto Etsy 🙂

     

    For me when istarted with 3d printing many years ago it was all about the community and the sharing of models i could print when i had no idea how to design my own, that is such a good thing and why i put my models up for free. All about Carma i guess ! 🙂

     

  3. I happened to look on Etsy for something and noticed the sheer amount of people selling other people's designs and more to the point people are paying £7 or so for a 3d printed octopus or T-Rex is mind blowing !, i quickly checked and change some of my free toy designs licences on Thingv to non-commercial, but i cannot believe how many people are simply printing the flexible octopus (given by the designer for free) for example and people seem to by buying them !.

     

    Maybe i was naive to what people will do in terms of taking other people's work, and surprisingly what people will buy !. Obviously if the design was set to can be used for commercial use, then fair game i guess, but my eyes have been opened. I would not feel comfortable selling someone else work regardless of the licence set

     

    Also saw one of my designs on there, my fault, set the wrong licence, changed it now

  4. On 1/2/2021 at 7:19 PM, Husar said:

    It is not only M1. My MBP is a year old and Cura stopped working this week for me.  Same issues in regards to not having any Preview. Here is my processor.  2.6 GHz 6-Core Intel Core i7

    think you have an diff issue, i have the last of the non-M1 MBP, same spec as yours and it works fine in the latest 'Big Sur' 11.1 release, it does sometimes loose ability to see the sliced preview but closing and re-opening Cura fixes that.

  5. @bagel-orb have you any insight on this, i know its a old post but i still always see this sort of stuttering on a S5 with the defaults for max res and deviation. As you can see the spacing is so consistent that it looks like a build up of commands in the processors then a stutter occurs. @Montani would this be correct by the new firmware do you know ?, i cannot remove this not matter what it try in the slicer.

     

    MAny thanks

     

  6. I am trying to remove a material from the market place list of installed materials, however every time i do it when i log back into Cura it says my account needs to sync and it adds back the materials !, how can i remove the material from the list of installed materials ?

  7. after trying a couple of prints, in terms of quality, 4.8.0 produces better results if you disable 'fill gaps between walls' and 'compensate wall overlap', which i have had to do for a long time as they are not good.

    Clearly Archane looks to address the issues these settings have, but for now there are many surface artifacts with Archane and in reality it's not much better than 4.8.0 in terms of visual quality with these problematic settings enabled.

     

    Obviously once Archane does what it is meant to it will fill any gaps between walls (should make stronger prints, although that's debatable if those gaps make much difference) and corners etc will be sharper as the overlap compensation will be sorted out. However for now i would rather put up with gaps and rounded corners to avoid these surface artifacts.

     

    Looking forward to trying another build !, i am sure it will be great in the end

  8. indeed, i did consider trying that, but could not see how to get a scalpel around the side of the rod with the cover just sliding up and down on it... also scratching the rod with a scalpel would def be an option ... tricky. I could not really see or even reach the clips that undo the cover, that cover is what holds the linear bearings into the bed, if those clips got damaged or did not seat back properly then the bearings would rise out of the build plate. I was pretty sure something was going to get broken or scratched trying the simpler way... 🙂, maybe thats just me..

     

     

  9. 2 minutes ago, SandervG said:

    Nice, that is not something I would recommend to everyone but amazing that you managed to do it all without instructions. Hopefully it is all put back together properly and you'll be able to print reliably without any rubbing. Nice job!

     

    Thanks, tbh i was slow and methodical (and took photos), so no reason in reality why it should not be fine, the rods can only go back in one way, same for the lead screw. If anyone else gives this a go, be super careful around the pcp boards wiring etc. Also be careful around moving the printer itself, carelessness can knock the frame out of square. 

  10. Thanks @SandervG

     

    so i decided to get on and fix it (and learn a bit about how the printer is put together), it cannot be good for print quality to have that side rubbing so badly and could explain some inconsistency i see between layers from time to time.

     

    Anyway, i went a bit further than mka did and removed the bed and consequently the plastic cover completely as to not risk damaging the bearings by drilling in-situ. Overall it wasn't too hard, extra care needs to be taken when accessing a screw for one of the vertical rods as it sits under the main PCP, it's easy enough to move out of the way but be gentle. The rest is pretty straight forward. Remove the base, disconnect the speaker, unbolt the fans, remove the vertical rails, remove the lead screw stepper. Carefully remove the plastic cover from the print bed, its just clipped on either side. Open the hole out... 🙂

     

    I took the oppotiniuty to clean the rods, bearings and lead screw before putting it all back together.

     

    just completed a test print, all fine now with no rubbing, happy days. I need to print some circles to check for axle alignment and correct that if the frame has moved at all from carefully putting it onto it's side, hopefully not as getting the pulleys nice and tight so they don't keep coming loose is a pain.

     

    Anyway, if anyone else has this issue its not a massive effort to correct

    • Thanks 1
  11. Hi,

     

    I have had my S5 for over a year and have always noticed that the left vertical rod would rub on the bed cover (see picture), when the printer is cold it actually creates some friction so the bed movement is noisy (i usually need to abort the first print and allow the bed to warm the build volume and hence the rods for the noise to go - not and issue in summer). Essentially the the holes in the cover are not quite in the right place and a solution would be to slightly enlarge the left one. Can anyone advise on this, how hard is it to get that cover off, or can i somehow move the cover over to reduce the rubbing ?.

     

    I can remember another member had the same issue on a S5 and he took it to bits to enlarge the whole.

     

    @SandervG Any ideas ? 🙂

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Screenshot_20201116-081647_Photos.jpg

  12. wow, i just checked the pricing here in the UK and its selling for £822 ($1084) !!,

     

    i am a huge UM fan but that seems a large amount for just the air manager !, has it gone up in price ?, i thought it was around £400 ?. I can't quite get my head around how it can be that price ?.

  13. thanks Both, good to hear your experiences. I tend not to do long prints if i will be in the room all day anyway, so need to weigh up the pros and cons of getting it. Also i don't tend to have any warping issues, a bit of 3Dlac on the bed and its good to go, however i do not print ABS, maybe with the air manager i could give that a try !

  14. Hi All,

     

    I am considering an Air Manager for my S5 for the potential health benefits whilst being in the same room as the printer etc, but also the more stable build area temperatures.

     

    However i am keen to hear how people find it performs for basic tasks such as printing very find detail in PLA, with other printers which are fully enclosed often it is advised to leave the doors open when printing PLA. How well can the system lower the build volume temps when the doors are closed ?, how noisy is the fan when printing PLA or PETG for example ?. Is printer overall quieter or louder than with the air manager removed (assuming the print head fans are not heard with the air manager in place but the main extractor fan is heard instead).

     

    Do you find you can access everything you need through the doors or do you need to keep lifting the hood ?, from what i can tell the hood is hinged at the back, which for me is a pain as it would hit the wall when opening.

     

    Thanks

  15. it's really hard to tell what is happening here, you seem to be saying the silcom covers are failing some how ?, this doesn't make a lot of sense. I cannot see how the one in the photo managed to split.

    I have been using the same cover with all cores, including a CC for over a year and it's still fine. To get them to fit correctly you have to persevere and hook each corner and flap in the appropriate groove, it should then sit flat on the bottom of the print head failure to do so will mean they get caught, i assume this is what is happening.  

  16. 6 hours ago, Montani said:

    Hi All, Im the designer on the S-line printers and responsible for the behaviour and functioning of the display interface.

    @Link was right, we do indeed want to keep the UI clean. However, the main reason was and is to first make an easy to use product for all users such as average office employees, students, operators, engineers and managers. This resulted in visual and text based explanatory touch interface. We try to prevent technical Jargon and details which increased the cognitive load for the majority. Now that we UI is somewhat mature we do want to allow user to have such technical details available as @sj3fk3 mentioned.

    @jkcz @Link @everyone

    To make sure I come up with the right design I'd like to understand the reasoning for having this information a bit better. So i'd like to understand about your deeper motivation why you would like to see this. Do you have insecurities that would be taken away or what kind of conclusions would you like to take by having such info?

    I really would like to learn from this and I hope you guys can help me out!
    Thanks!

     

    Hi @Montani thanks for progressing this. 

     

    To add some colour for you. The sort of info we are looking for is really useful (if not nearly essential) when optimising and debugging prints, print profiles and materials.  As an example, you have a print which has a certain printable feature at a certain layer height and you want to be able to view that layer being printed, at present you have no idea which layer is being printed and when the layer in question is coming up. 

    Or you are watching your print and notice a artifact appear, you want to know which layer that was so you can check tool path in Cura.

     

    Alternatively you are tuning a new profile for a new material or having non perfect results with existing materials and you want to tweet the nozzle temps without having to keep scrolling to the 'tune' page. You might notice that the print doesn't look right so you want to slow it down a bit and also note the layer height you made that change at. Again all without having to jump between the tune menu (and even then you can't see layer height). You want to tweek the nozzle temp to try different temperatures at different layer heights to improve quality. 

     

    Hopefully these help and are just some of the examples which we all face when working to get the best prints possible. Also one thing which is missing is the ability to spin the part cooling fans up on their own. On the 2+ you could activate the fans to check their function without starting a print. On the S5 you will never know if a fan is stuck or blocked as the fans can only ever activate when a print is running and the print head moving. 

     

    In terms if the menu itself, it would be great to have a 3rd screen you can swipe to after the remaining time and the picture of the model screens. On that screen would be essentlaly similar to the tune menu but with live data on the front. For example, nozzle temps, layer number(new), bed temp, speed, flow etc. Then pressing on these values allows you to modify them or even better you have a +/- option next to each one so you can adjust from a single view. 

     

    By placing all this data in a separate screen users can choose to view it or not. 

     

    I appreciate the need to keep the UI clean but 3d printing isn't quite plug and play and any time some level of tweaking/debugging/optimising is required you need access to this type of data in a live view. 

     

    Hope this helps, happy to provide more examples. 

     

    Thanks 

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