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  1. This has rotating arms that can be adjusted to stand against different TV or Monitor thickness while keeping the shelf horizontal. I made this cause I had no high place around the TV to put my router so top of the TV sounded like an ideal solution. If you find this design useful, you can download it from Thingiverse.
  2. I appreciate the explanation. There was indeed a network connection problem which I just resolved, and the option went back to "print over network". Thanks!
  3. Its been a while since I upgraded CURA. Last version I had still said "print through network" This new one says "print via cloud". Can't say I'm happy that my prints are going to the internet and back to my printer (I wish there was an option not to), but that's a discussion for another time. My current problem is that the video feed is broken. The button is grayed out. Is there a way to fix this?
  4. Thanks for the tip. I did have canoacrylate glue in my possession but your suggestion made me research it a bit more. My current glue is a gel consistency and the dispenser tip was a bit too wide so it wasn't helping. But I found this glue on Amazon which is thin consistency and has special tips for precise delivery. I think that would help a lot. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C32ME6G?pf_rd_r=4GWFVAQYWRGYJED5YB92&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee
  5. Just wondering if there are any good options to glue two narrow pieces of PLA together. Looking into ways to connect two patches of 3d printed chainmail but I don't have much space to work with.
  6. Thanks for pointing me to the right direction! It's kinda hard searching for obscure settings dealing with obscure issues. So they call it "Elephant's Foot". Now I know!
  7. Just wondering, for people who deal with tight fittings that require sub mm accuracy, is there a way to compensate for first couple of layers spreading out a bit? ( I'm guessing due to the constant heat from the heated bed) Or should I just reduce the temperature in the profile and put more glue instead?
  8. Interesting... Try increasing the "top skin expand distance" value instead to see if it fuses the two layers better instead of an artificial gap.
  9. Just wanted to add for everyone to know, that I submitted this feature suggestion to Github and the members there deemed that there is a Cura setting that can close holes called "Top Skin Expand Distance" (not a setting I could find until I was told about it) for which if you increase the value, it eats away the walls around holes until they are completely closed. So it won't make it to a feature list, but at least keep in mind that there is this setting that can make a full and even top layer for you.
  10. I like cura as a slicer, and I only own one 3d printer from UM. I might need to add some cheaper brand 3d printer(s) to speed up the production but I wanted to ask which known brands support cura and if I can submit print jobs to them from the same computer and same cura (no other cura "flavors") wirelesly as I do now with my current UM3. This would help me narrow down my choices for a new purchase. Thanks!
  11. Thanks! I'm just glad it worked out and maybe other people will find it useful.
  12. Apart from the suggested z-hop, I also enabled "Retract at layer change" and I don't know which of these or both helped but those layer change lines disappeared. The big difference that fixed the patchwork didn't happen from settings though. I separated the letters from the top layer (in the model) by .02mm enough so that the slicer doesn't create a hole at their base. That way the top surface prints as one uninterrupted flat area, then adds the letters on top starting on the next layer. The 0.02mm gap worked with 0.1mm layer height setting. Any other layer height might need a different/
  13. Here is the new print. It does have some artifacts which are partly because I got too frugal with the number of top layers this time, to speed up the print, and it revealed some creases from the infil pattern under, as well as some other issues that wouldn't show up if only it got more layer passes. But the fundamental issue of the different patches is gone! I think I will combine it with some ironing and it will look like smooth metal for sure!
  14. I think I found a solution to the problem. I'm reprinting the whole model for visual comparison and I will post later with the result if satisfactory.
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