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FraggleRock

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Everything posted by FraggleRock

  1. Thanks for sharing the trick. It does look like merge brings them to their saved position (also retaining the different material assignments), and now I can also re-orient them together. This should work!
  2. Cura seems to always move parts around when I load them, so I lose the original placement, and it is hard to position them back in the original spot accurately, especially when I want to combine two parts made of let's say, PLA and TPU together. Is there an actual setting that preserves the original position even if the parts go through each other?
  3. I've been trying for a day or so to perfect the bridging profile for a TPU filament. I'm using a model from thingiverse (I've attached it) Unfortunately for some reason the filament behaves very differently for a narrow band of the bridging, and I don't know why. Here are some of the settings I used: Main extrusion temp 215c No heated plate No retraction Bridge Skin speed 5 Bridge skin flow 60 Bridge skin density 100% Bridge fan speed 100% Any idea what may be causing this? bridging_bench.stl
  4. This has rotating arms that can be adjusted to stand against different TV or Monitor thickness while keeping the shelf horizontal. I made this cause I had no high place around the TV to put my router so top of the TV sounded like an ideal solution. If you find this design useful, you can download it from Thingiverse.
  5. I appreciate the explanation. There was indeed a network connection problem which I just resolved, and the option went back to "print over network". Thanks!
  6. Its been a while since I upgraded CURA. Last version I had still said "print through network" This new one says "print via cloud". Can't say I'm happy that my prints are going to the internet and back to my printer (I wish there was an option not to), but that's a discussion for another time. My current problem is that the video feed is broken. The button is grayed out. Is there a way to fix this?
  7. Thanks for the tip. I did have canoacrylate glue in my possession but your suggestion made me research it a bit more. My current glue is a gel consistency and the dispenser tip was a bit too wide so it wasn't helping. But I found this glue on Amazon which is thin consistency and has special tips for precise delivery. I think that would help a lot. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C32ME6G?pf_rd_r=4GWFVAQYWRGYJED5YB92&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee
  8. Just wondering if there are any good options to glue two narrow pieces of PLA together. Looking into ways to connect two patches of 3d printed chainmail but I don't have much space to work with.
  9. Thanks for pointing me to the right direction! It's kinda hard searching for obscure settings dealing with obscure issues. So they call it "Elephant's Foot". Now I know!
  10. Just wondering, for people who deal with tight fittings that require sub mm accuracy, is there a way to compensate for first couple of layers spreading out a bit? ( I'm guessing due to the constant heat from the heated bed) Or should I just reduce the temperature in the profile and put more glue instead?
  11. Interesting... Try increasing the "top skin expand distance" value instead to see if it fuses the two layers better instead of an artificial gap.
  12. Just wanted to add for everyone to know, that I submitted this feature suggestion to Github and the members there deemed that there is a Cura setting that can close holes called "Top Skin Expand Distance" (not a setting I could find until I was told about it) for which if you increase the value, it eats away the walls around holes until they are completely closed. So it won't make it to a feature list, but at least keep in mind that there is this setting that can make a full and even top layer for you.
  13. I like cura as a slicer, and I only own one 3d printer from UM. I might need to add some cheaper brand 3d printer(s) to speed up the production but I wanted to ask which known brands support cura and if I can submit print jobs to them from the same computer and same cura (no other cura "flavors") wirelesly as I do now with my current UM3. This would help me narrow down my choices for a new purchase. Thanks!
  14. Thanks! I'm just glad it worked out and maybe other people will find it useful.
  15. Apart from the suggested z-hop, I also enabled "Retract at layer change" and I don't know which of these or both helped but those layer change lines disappeared. The big difference that fixed the patchwork didn't happen from settings though. I separated the letters from the top layer (in the model) by .02mm enough so that the slicer doesn't create a hole at their base. That way the top surface prints as one uninterrupted flat area, then adds the letters on top starting on the next layer. The 0.02mm gap worked with 0.1mm layer height setting. Any other layer height might need a different/larger gap to avoid making a hole during slicing. So people who try this at different printing resolution should check the layers in the preview first to make sure the top surface closes before anything on top of it starts. It's an easy fix, but if this eventually became a cura feature that would be awesome!
  16. Here is the new print. It does have some artifacts which are partly because I got too frugal with the number of top layers this time, to speed up the print, and it revealed some creases from the infil pattern under, as well as some other issues that wouldn't show up if only it got more layer passes. But the fundamental issue of the different patches is gone! I think I will combine it with some ironing and it will look like smooth metal for sure!
  17. I think I found a solution to the problem. I'm reprinting the whole model for visual comparison and I will post later with the result if satisfactory.
  18. Non uniform scale in Cura is problematic the second time you try to change a scale number. It's been for as long as I've been using Cura, which is several versions. Is this supposed to be a feature instead? I don't get it.
  19. I understand what you are saying. Yet I feel this could easily be fixed by opting to close each top layer like a shell instead of laying material around the holes which is a process that breaks the top layer path into several different looking patches. I wonder if any of the thousand options in cura can do that already.
  20. Thanks for the tip. I'm surprised z-hop is not enabled by default. These travel traces are not something anyone wants to look at on a finished print.
  21. I tried some ironing yesterday with the default settings (although i changed the pattern to concentric)on a smaller test model, and it created some unwanted bumps in the middle of each pattern. It was definitely flatter and more glass like but it still looked like what you get from a milled metal surface. What I would like to understand is why the regular zig zag fill reflects the light differently when the head moves to a different location? Is the head positioned slightly higher or lower on the z, so the material is thicker enough to reflect the light differently? I don't get it. I wish cura had the option to treat the whole layer as one pass and build on it after it's done with a uniform zig zag fill. Anyway, I'll try the ironing with the zig zag pattern today to see if it is any better.
  22. Does anyone know why am I getting this really messy top layer and how can fix it? It is smooth to the touch but it reflects light in a very unpleasing way. I wish the pattern was uniform all the way. I'm using a UM3
  23. I currently have a couple of soft 3mm TPU filaments from Matterhackers and SainSmart. I spent half a day trying to figure the one from Matterhackers. I was able to print some small 20mm domes that were somewhat acceptable although very fuzzy and also cloudy (it's a clear filament) Then I tried to print a slightly larger model, and it failed spectacularly. Basically stopped extruding. I don't know what's going on, but to save my sanity I thought I ask if any of you have been successful in printing with TPU. I'm using an UM3. Thanks. Also a side note: The default hardware profile for TPU on the printer is at 220 degrees extrusion, and the TPU I got recommends 240-260. So If I try to move some material on the printer to check the extrusion, it is not possible cause the temperature drops back to 220 degrees (from the printer profile) when I move the menu choice from "printcore temperature" to "move material" option. I'm honestly irritated that these factory settings can't be overwritten as an option.
  24. I was about to post the same result with my UM3. I got my TPU from Matterhackers. I did a dozen small test prints to dial in the settings to something semi acceptable, then went to do a larger print and I got the same result. Not sure what's going on here but something tells me that the filament gets compressed inside the bowden tube, then the tension gets released by a sudden expansion, a bit of the filament gets extruded, then it's getting compressed again and the flow stops. That's my current theory. Edit: I see the i3 also has a bowden tube. 😕
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