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  1. Hi, I've been trying to get the auto levelling working consistently on the Ultimaker 3 Extended at my office, but every time I use it on the printer, it moves the print head too close to the surface of the glass. The first layer is "smeared" onto the glass, with it either being paper-thin in places, or so close that nothing extrudes. I have managed to overcome this issue by manually levelling, and I can get accurate prints every time this way. Has anyone had any similar issues, and if so, how have you managed to overcome this?
  2. I can confirm that it didn't knot up, no. The filament was still loose, and hadn't become taught on the spool. I triple checked this, having had a similar issue where the PLA entangle on an earlier test print, and had stripped out on the feed motor to the AA motor. (This was due to a mistake on my part, rather than a systemic issue). As for the moisture, its possible that air con could have affected it, but doesn't AC actually dry the environment, rather than make it more humid? Humidity is looking like the most likely culprit, and coupled with the constant on-off nature of the model printed, these may have combined to cause the filament to block. Now I know what to look for, I will keep an eye out for any potential problems, and try to prevent them, before something like this happens again.
  3. Unfortunately, I wasn't near the printer when it clogged, so the I'm not sure on the exact failure mode. When I spotted that it had failed, the feed screw had stripped out the filament on the feed, so I can't confirm whether the stripped filament was as a consequence of the clog, or the clog was as a consequence of the stripped out filament. The part was a very detailed model of a complete truck cab, and so yes, there may have been little bits of PVA each layer. As you say, its possible that the constant fluctuation in heat cycle for each layer, was enough to cause the material to burn slightly, and this could have contributed. When removed the filament to try to resolve the issue, I did notice that about 50cm of filament leading into the bowden tube had become really brittle, with the section after this being the usual flexible PVA consistancy, so I'm not sure if this contributed. Unfortunately I binned this filament, so don't have it to hand any more. Cura was used for slicing, so it should have reduced the nozzle temp as you suggested..
  4. Got it! 250C did it. Cranked the temperature up, and the hot-pulls worked like a dream. I reduced the temps and purged it with some PVA filament, and all seems okay. Thanks for the help!
  5. I wasn't but I'll give it a try tomorrow. I'll remember that, thanks. I tended to use the default PLA temperature that Ultimaker suggested for the "hot pull". I did however try 215, and had no better luck with this. There was no popping or crackling that I noticed. As I say, it was a new reel, and was only opened when the print was started. Could it really degrade that quickly?
  6. Hi all, I'm having similar problems with my BB core also. It's a new Ultimaker 3, with a freshly opened reel of 750g PVA fed into the machine, so cleanliness shouldn't be an issue. It was running a big job (due to take 5 days), but last night (3 days in), the BB nozzle clogged and failed to continue extruding. I have been trying unsuccessfully all day to clear it, using hot and cold PLA pulls, as per the UM3 help. Initially, I did get some residue out, and it was almost black, so well and truly carbonised! However, the PLA I've been using has now given a cone tip as if it was clear, but it is still not extruding. I've some airbrush cleaning needles at home, so will give that a try tomorrow.
  7. I'm not sure I follow you. How does the "regular fan speed at height" give me the information on bed levelling? The default is set at 0.57mm for "Regular Fan Speed at Height". In terms of error message, I only get an error on the printer, stating that the difference between head height is too large when I do automatic levelling. As far as I am aware, this is on the printer itself, and not in Cura (therefore I have no log to send over). I've manually adjusted the bed today, so that the three screws are tighter, and the bed sits much lower. Automatic levelling ran, and uses the "correct" head for reference. However, once auto levelling had completed, when printing on the bed the head collided with the bed, and failed to print anything at the front or rear of the model, with only the left 1/3 and right 1/3 of the first layer being printed. I thought that this was just an issue with the first layer, but having left it for a while it was clear that it had not referenced the level of the bed correctly. I have manually levelled the bed again, and have started a large job, which unfortunately is going to take 4 days to run...
  8. It doesn't rapidly move into the glass - there is a gap after it rapidly moves, and it slowly moves towards the glass, and then continues to move into it once it has made contact. I actually half expected to hear a "clink" of cracked glass the force it was applying! The head is clear of debris, and I have tried removing both print cores and re-seating them, in case there was an issue with this; exactly the same as before. Is there a way to test the capacitive sensor?
  9. Hi, My company bought an UM3 before Christmas, and I have been asked to look after it. Since purchase, I have had an issue using the auto bed levelling. It appears to be using the raise print head lever the wrong way around. Manual calibration works perfectly. When levelling either head, it pushes the head into the bed with such force that it compresses the bed springs fully. it appears it is trying to calibrate the 1st head, using the sensor on the 2nd. Similarly, when the 2nd head is lowered, it tries to calibrate using the sensor in the 1st head. It's almost as if there is a bit set incorrectly in a configuration somewhere. The recent firmware update hasn't made any changes (apart from a new issue with network connectivity, which multiple people are having). I'd really like to get the automatic levelling sorted, as ultimately I am not going to be at my company for too much longer (I'm a placement student). I would need to hand this over to someone, and if they have to manually calibrate every time, this is quickly going to become problematic. Thanks. Ads
  10. I also am having this issue. Brand new Ultimaker 3 Ext, delivered on Monday, and did the latest Firmware update today. I haven't previously used dual extrusion, as only did a test print on single extrusion. Today, asked the print to do dual extrusion and it tried to auto calibrate but failed. On active calibration, it lowers 2nd print head and then tries to calibrate 1st print head, then raised the 2nd head and pushes the frame of the print head into the surface because the 2nd nozzle isn't "present". It is almost as if the auto-calibration routine has the "raise print head" the opposite way around. I have managed to manually calibrate the bed, but auto calibration after manual hasn't fixed the issue. Would prefer to automatically have it do the levelling as I would prefer to do this before each print job.
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