chuckmcgee

Thank you. I did find it before and have already done a couple test prints. I try to 0.3 and it made quite a difference. I also turned off the automatic bed levelIng. Thanks for the suggestions and help!

This is very helpful, gr5. Thank you. I get the need for some squish and did know it as elephant's foot. Good reminders. I am comfortable with the adjustments on the fly and will give that a go. I also find it interesting that you don't do the auto bed leveling. That makes perfect sense! I often wondered what good manual adjustments would do, assuming you are in the ball park, if auto leveling would correct your manual leveling adjustments. I will also give the initial horizon expansion a try. Is that set in Cura or on the printer? (I could of course Google the answer, but asking here). Thanks again

Since I have owned two Ultimaker 3 Extended printers in the past several months, I have an almost predictable issue where my first layer is too squished to the bed, causing there to be a minor single layer flare out on the first layer which at times has affected the quality of the surface of many of my prints - especially ones with dual extrusion lettering. I can send pictures if no one is familiar with this, but I have heard of others having the issue (and can't find those references now, of course). I have done countless manual and automatic bed levelings to no avail. Wondering if there is another approach? Maybe be a little looser on the manual bed leveling to the point where I can barely feel the calibration card? Maybe there is a z-offset I could change? The issue isn't a show stopper, but my CR-10 outperforms the UM3E for the quality of the first layer and that feels wrong to me given the quality differences in the two printers. Thanks. Here are some examples from a print I did in December. The model was a phone case and the sides were a 45-degree chamfer. You can see, even had I modeled a lip to be more accommodating, I am losing integrity between the lines of the lettering.

Now, when I do it at height, it pauses and even appears to resume, but prints air for many layers before eventually extruding filament. These are my current test settings. Can't seem to figure this out.

Anyone have any experience using this combination of hardware and software? I tried over the weekend for my first time ever and, either I set something incorrectly, it or it doesn't work properly. In my case, the print paused when I expected it to, but on resume - it was a mess. The bed returned to the hot end and kept going - crashing into the print and boring a hole into my print...it kept trying to go up until eventually (assuming some kind of failsafe), it stopped and failed. Hoping I did something wrong as I would love for this feature to work. Thanks for whatever you all can tell me.

Sorry if these are dumb questions: If i used the extension in that way, how would the bug manifest itself? I tried this over the weekend (and should have done so with a test print), but I ran it on a piece I was hoping to be a success and, when I resumed, the bed continued back upwards right into the nozzle, creating a burn hole in the print before I had to manually stop it. It also caused the filament in both spools to retract way back into the PTFE tube, causing me to essentially remove all of the filament and refeed it to start over. I did the pause at layer and not at height. This is my first time using (or even finding these extensions). How likely/quickly will an issue like this be resolved? Does your discovery have a fix we have to wait for or something we can/should do ourselves? Thanks! UPDATE: I think the Z in the bottom code is also a bug. That might explain why my print crashed into the head on resume. Either way...Good catch!!! Here is my examples of height vs layer: by Height: by Layer:

YESSIR!! (I suppose that's another potential fix...never stop printing)

Thank you for the clarification. I have seen it occur most often right after the printer is powered on after an extensive period of time of not being used and after heating the bed and hot end for the first print. After that, it works for multiple print jobs. Questions: As a known issue, is it safe to assume this will be fixed by a firmware update? I have experienced this issue across at least two of the latest firmware updates. Wondering how long this has been known and whether the fact that this still exists is a sign of a bigger issue Why is this not an issue for more people (or maybe it is)? I haven't found a lot of threads pointing back to this and thank goodness, @kmanstudios made me at least feel like I wasn't the only one (even though his hasn't occurred in a long time) Is there anything I can do to improve the likelihood that this won't happen? Would it help to turn off the prime blob and assume the filament will regulate during a skirt or brim process? Thanks for the help here!

Yeah. I was just pointing out that there was another reply within the thread that had the same problem. I hope I’m not belaboring the point, but my issue is not that the printer turns off during that purge, it’s that it keeps dispensing filament at the point of the purge until I have no choice but to turn it off manually. For all intents and purposes, the printer appears to freeze as the controls are completely unresponsive.

You mentioned others that might be having this issue - as you may have seen @kmanstudios commented earlier in this thread that he is having the issue. Coincidentally, he and another are exchanging replies in another thread with @SandervG. This is the thread: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/22032-big-blob-and-huge-retraction-um3-after-abort/

Thanks Robinmdh. To clarify about there power brick, I only have the one that I am using now. This is the original power brick from the first Ultimaker. We decided to keep this one when the new one had the flickering. I was only suggesting that maybe this particular power brick is responsible for the extended purge on both of the Ultimaker printers I have had. And yes...that is the same Erin. She’s great.

Just seeing this thread and I have another going on these forums, but as of the latest firmware, I can confirm that I have had the exact same problem @kmanstudios has had - twice in the past few days. For me, it only occurs after the printer has been off for an extended period of time (a day or more) and when I do my first print. After I manually power it off and on (and acknowledge I have cleared the bed), the print automatically resumes and has no issue. It's just super annoying since there are no guarantees as to when it will happen and, when it does, if you aren't watching it, it will dispense filament up into your print head. It has already warped the silicon cover that protects the two hot ends. If you want to see my other thread (which includes YouTube videos of the event), go here: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21956-freeze-on-nozzle-purge/ Hope this helps (and we can get an answer to this).

Thank you for the explanation on the beeping. I did get some help to determine that was normal. A couple points of clarification regarding the rest: First, I do not know if the freezing/extended purge would have happened on the new power supply. That flickering started right away so it was suggested to use the original power supply. Second, I am currently powered by UPS. I have been for a couple months now. I have seen the extended purge happen on the original printer when not connected to UPS as well. Lastly, regarding the file to reduce power, my preference is to not make me or my printer a snowflake when compared to others. I just want my printer to work like everyone else’s. Just concerned about what it means for me later when new versions of code come out and I am using something custom. Through MatterHackers, I have been pointed to Erin Oliver at Ultimaker North America Support. She has been back and forth with me. The question I have for her (and you) is...does it make sense to try a replacement power supply? It’s the only component in common to both printers that have failed the same way.

no...sorry...two distinct issues. The freeze issue is the one that brings me here and has existed on both of the UM2E's that I have had in my possession since buying the printer in November. The flickering was a new problem that showed up on the replacement (2nd of the two printers) that seemed to be related to the power supply. I only share the flickering problem in response to your question about whether or not I replaced the power supply with the second unit I did not since the replacement power supply appeared to be faulty - causing the flickering. I just happened to record a video of the flickering as well.

That is definitely not me. That was the result of the replacement power supply running on the replacement printer. I still have the replacement printer, but because of that flickering/apparent power issue, it was suggested I try (and keep using) the original power supply. So far, the extended purge/freezing has now happened on both the old and new device, and the power supply is the only component in common to both units. Hope this helps.