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chuckmcgee

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Everything posted by chuckmcgee

  1. Hello all, I am disappointed to be posting this, but in need of selling my s5. I have owned it for for a little over a year and it has served me quite well. I am selling in an attempt to afford some unfortunate family circumstances. The printer is in fantastic shape and in all original packaging. Additionally, I have some nice add-ons as well, including some additional print cores. All told, I spent close to $7,000 for all I am including in the sale. Looking to get $5,500 plus shipping costs, but will accept reasonable offers. I can send any pics or other details you like. This will essentially look brand new as sold as I have cared for it quite well. Specifically, my unit would include the following: s5 printer (includes 2 AA 0.4 cores and 1 BB core) AA 0.4 core (additional) AA 0.25 core CC 0.6 core Three genuine glass beds, one unused - all in perfect condition PrintedSolid enclosure Ultimaker Black tough PLA (unopened) Ultimaker Red tough PLA (unopened) I have been a member of this community since I purchased my first Ultimaker 3 Extended a couple years ago. This is one of the finest and most informative communities around. Sorry to be stepping out of the game here. Under any other circumstances, I would not be selling this printer. Let me know if interested.
  2. Ha...sorry. Thought it was obvious. The issue I am referring to is the curving that happened at the top of the print. I definitely know it wasn't the most ideal orientation...my later print came out fine. I was mostly curious if I could print it on the S5. You may have nailed it with the wobble theory.
  3. I have a question about my S5. I tried to print a camera mount for my CR-10 printer. I found the mount on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2916010) and decided to print it using my S5 and Ultimaker ABS filament. I made a few minor modifications to the print settings, such as to extend the brim size, since I wanted to print this standing upright and with good bed adhesion at the bottom. This is how it looked sliced in Cura: The pics below are how it actually printed at the top. For the record, the bed adhesion was so good (and I was mildly impatient getting it off the glass), that the part broke off the bed and not cleanly…the base of the model broke off as well. Oops. Not at all my concern...I know why that happened... Anyway…what do you all think could have been the culprit here? I suspect this isn't a slicing issue...but rather a physical hardware issue with the stability of the XY movement of my printer and maybe something that needs tightening - I did recently lube rods on my printer, verified X/Y calibration, and tightened belts...so not sure what could be loose or off. Additionally, the arms printed without a warp. The only deformity was at the top as pictured below. Also, I have the Printed Solid enclosure - so environment likely didn't play a part. Additional details: Ultimaker ABS 30mm/s print speed 15% infill 0.2 layer height Thanks for whatever you can tell me. (And for the record - I did print it successfully in an orientation where the long legs are flat to the bed).
  4. I only wonder then, how are the printers of far less quality and price, seem to get the tolerances closer. I have had far fewer issues with both the Prusa and the CR 10. The only answer I can come up with is the software. Before I bought my Ultimakers, I had never used Cura. I still only use Cura for my Ultimakers. I use simplify 3D for the others. Could this be simply be a slicing issue?
  5. Thanks to all here. Very informative post. I do get that the best tolerances can be built for in CAD (and I usually do). Unfortunately, I was having to print a complex part that someone else designed. All I had was an STL, but the print was part of a bigger installation where I needed better accuracy than I was getting with the default profile. The horizon expansion adjustment (to -0.03) allowed me to get the expected tolerances without any other changes. And this was printing with PETG (Polymaker Lite).
  6. Changing Horizon expansion to -0.03 was experience changing for me. This was a magical thread. Thank you. And credit to @gr5 as well. I know he tried to tell me to try -0.025 some time ago, and I did...but I didn't have a part to print that would be so sensitive to spec. This setting just successfully printed a PETG part I have tried 5 times to no avail (only changing flow rate before this).
  7. Definitely interested in tracking these results. I love the quality of my prints on the s5, but the dimensions are seldom what I was expecting. I just started a print with the horizontal expansion of -0.03 in hopes to get a product that fits my application.
  8. Perfect. I have done so. Thank you!
  9. Hi @SandervG Did I miss the update as to when those of us with an s5 will get the second glass plate? Not sure if I was supposed to officially request it or make sure my address is on file.
  10. Well @zungara, that was exactly it. Problem solved. No idea, though, why the material made a difference on extruder 1. Thanks and Happy Holidays!
  11. I am trying to print a very simple (and small) shape with a raft and I am unable to print it. Cura shows no errors and sends the job to the printer without issue, but by the time it hits the printer, I get an error that the print exceeds the build volume and I can't start the print. If I change to a skirt or brim, it has no error. Here is how the print looks on the S5 with the raft UPDATE: Apparently, it is only an issue when using Nylon as the material...both generic and Ultimaker brand. If I choose a different material, I get no errors. Any suggestions?
  12. I got the CC 0.6 nozzle for my s5 and have tried (unsuccessfully) to print a modest shape using NylonX. No matter what I try (glue stick in multiple patterns) or hair spray (or both), I can't get it to stick to the bed. I have tried with settings from 255-260 on the hot end to 60-75 on the bed. I have also turned off all cooling fans. I am not familiar with Dimafix, but I am desperate to get something that is reliable. I have printed successfully with Ultimaker ABS and the AA cores. No luck so far with the CC core and NylonX UPDATE: I just ordered Ultimaker adhesion sheets. I have never tried them before. We'll see how that goes.
  13. Well, I am afraid I have to report in as a user with an issue with my s5. As of this morning, it won't boot up and start properly. After running a couple successful prints last night, I woke up to a failed print this morning (no big deal...was printing a very small model with very little surface area and I didn't want to use a brim). Anyway, when I cleared the bed and sent the print to the printer again, I got the bed leveling error which I have seen before, including once last night amid my successful short prints. Because I was unable to get past the printer failing calibration when I would retry my print when prompted from the failure, my fix last night and my attempt this morning was to power the printer off and on again. Last night, that seemed fine. This morning, the printer won't boot up at all. I turn it on...it flashes the Ultimaker logo on the touch screen...goes black...and nothing. Silence. No fans...No lights in the printer...no nothing. I tried reseating the power cable. I tried switching outlets. I tried removing the USB stick (which I never really use since I print over the network). I'm dead in the water. Here's a video of what is happening. once it's loaded. You can see what happens.
  14. That's what I figured...thanks. I think the functionality of the model works as printed. We shall see. Gotta love the 24-minute prints ?
  15. Hello all Has anyone seen this before where the layer view in Cura is showing a preview of the print and not matching the model view? This is a smaller print I am doing at 0.15 layer height, so maybe this is common - just not sure I have ever seen it this pronounced. I have seen this even when changing wall thickness, infill, and various layer heights (from 0.06 to 2.0). I am assuming the grey shadow effect around the previewed layers is what the solid looks like as compared to what would be printed. Here is the solid view: Thanks in advance for the education
  16. It's all over the place, but still looks like it will do the job when it gets to the top!
  17. I have the same problem Brett. I have been told that UM support is aware of the issue and it is specific to Cura Connect. Expect a fix in the next firmware (as I understand it)
  18. Hi all, Wondering why supports don't print with the same integrity of the main body of a print. You can see in this image below, the supports, the vertical structures between the left and right extents, are wavy. They move to the left, then back to the right near the top. The printer is in an enclosure, so can't imaging that the environment is affecting the direction. Wondering if there isn't something more fundamental about 3D printing that makes supports more susceptible. I have seen this quite a bit over the past year or more...just now getting around to asking about it.
  19. Print is done. It looks like the final product shows a better result. Somehow...the print rallied? Who knows. I am suggesting we close the chapter on this story. Again - concluding the model was less than ideal given infill settings and layer height. Also, as I recognize this is not new news...material matters - various sensitivities to the bed heat and cooling Thanks to this amazing community for helping to solve this!
  20. OK...better, but not unnoticeable with the new project file and the eSun filament: At this point, I am concluding it's the material's sensitivity to the bed heat/cooling/etc. This is the first time I have printed it with 0.2mm layer height.
  21. We shall see. I also have MatterHackers Pro and Ultimaker brand. Will try MHP after this if it's not good.
  22. @kmanstudios Just loaded your project file (UMS5_988243375_UMS5_controlbox-V2K-02mm.curaproject.3mf) and started the print using a brand new roll of eSun Pro+ PLA (black). 11 hour print. Will post pics of the result! Thanks again
  23. Once again - @fbrc8-erin seems to have cleared my issues with a suggestion to calibrate the lift switch - this has allowed me to complete the XY calibration (thinking it was working - but maybe the switch didn't fully extend or retract the core? Also, I had success with the print core swap when I chose to UNLOAD and then LOAD, as opposed to CHANGE. If I choose CHANGE and I don't cleanly remove the core during that step of the process (and it slips back into the slot), the sensor reads both the removal and addition in that one move - thinking I just placed the new core. Now when I choose to UNLOAD first - the sensor stops at the point of the unload. I seem to be back to my issue of the cave in on my lower layers (and the camera issue). I have a 2-day print going now - then will print the bed with @kmanstudios' project settings. Thanks all!
  24. Hi @SandervG I get the same issues with both the AA and BB cores in that slot. Should I try to swap the AA from 1 to 2 and see what happens?
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