dxp

Sounds interesting! Colorfabb provided a real life test with a black model airplane: https://colorfabb.com/lw-pla-ht-black

For me it is still working. I could clean the bed remotely (I knew, it was free but forgot to push the button.) Thank you, Smithy! Helpful work.

Sure you can. But the carbon will eat up your nozzle, so better switch to a steel or ruby nozzle, like the Print Core CC. AFAIK the feeder is wear resistant.

I second that. Not automatic double sending. Best feature for me is to skip cooldown and to switch levelling. It saved me 1-3h last week.

Okay, i can confirm: remote abortion via Browser/Management console (i really dislike that word!) .\ultituner.exe clearbed -p 1.2.3.4. --> dismiss clear print bed message, retry question appears .\ultituner.exe clearbed -p 1.2.3.4. --> retry question dismissed, printer ready Right now, a print with old REC ABS is waiting, and it is very difficult to get a sticky print 😐 So there are many occasions with failed prints. Good for debugging/testing!

Yesterday I did a manual abort. Then i had to dismiss the retry message manually. Today I aborted remotely via Cura and did dismiss the cleanbed message manually (cause there was a mess...) I watch the behaviour. The best feature so far is the cooldown option! It saves so much time!

Hello Smithy, thank you very much for this helpful tool! When using clearbed, the printer sends happily an "available again" message. But i have to clear the message "Retry Yes/No" on the printer. At least after a manual print abort. Any ideas? The printer is a S5, model 9051, version 7.0.3.

And i forgot: i use z offset plugin very often to fine-tune adhesion. Our S5 "squishes" a little too much. https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/fieldofview/ZOffsetPlugin

Isopropanol as a creeping agent 🙂 But beware: chipping can still happen.

мы говорим по-английски 🙂 Спасибо

Andersrum ist der Export als STL auch nicht einfacher: Body auswählen - Exportieren - Speicherort/Dateiname vergeben - in Cura öffnen. Dafür habe ich dann eine richtige STL-Datei. Schau doch mal nach dem Setup in Fusion. Auf die Schnelle habe ich da nix gefunden.

Hilft das weiter?

Ok guys, wenn hier mal eine total ausgefranste Düse vorkommt, probiere ich das. Dankescheen!

Das wird aus Produktionssicht auch die richtige Entscheidung gewesen sein. Und das macht es so viel einfacher. Noch einfacher als eine Düse beim China-Drucker zu wechseln.

They use a different standard, seems to be M6x0.75 (fine) You can check the dimensions here: https://dyzedesign.com/shop/nozzles/tungsten-carbide-nozzle/

Konnte ich noch nicht testen. Geert meint, es geht nur PLA. PETG geht nicht, habe ich probiert.

Man kann das System schon durch Hand-Reinhalten verwirren. Robust ist anders, da gebe ich Dir recht.

1. Layer 0,27 oder 0,3mm, evtl. etwas z-Offset (0,1 ist gut, evtl. das Plugin installieren). Uhu dazwischen oder Salzlösung (gerrit2), damit bringst Du die Haftung etwas runter und hast eine Schicht zum lösen. Salz geht besonders gut, finde ich. Isoplropanol kriecht hervorragend zwischen Glasplatte und Druck... Habe schon eine Glasplatte auf dem Gewissen, als ich PLA mit Weißleim 1:3 gedruckt habe - da hat es ei 4x10cm-Glasstück rausgebrochen! Die Mischung hatte zu viel Leim drin 🙄 Hier die Salzlösungsmethode:

Ein Mikroschalter ist weniger präzise, würde ich sagen. Es geht ja hier um Hundertstel. Ultimaker hat sich schon was dabei gedacht. Hier beschreibt der Entwickler den Werdegang:

Super! Dazu noch das übliche YT-Video: Oder eben 3D-Solex Hardcore nehmen.

You are welcome! 😃

CPE/XT/PET-G and PLA as support work, too! @Larof: If it needs to be ABS, try ASA, which seems to be UV-resistant. But your inital question was about support for ABS...

Hello and welcome to this forum, Benji! You want to support those square areas in the second pic? You may want to experiment with Support-Z-Distance and Support Roof. Try to minimize (even zero) the z-gap between until ABS sticks to PVA. A roof is better for adhesion and surface. It is a good practice to find the right parameters with a small part... 🙂 Cheers, dxp

I have to remember to set the line width of that core to 0,6mm in cura as the core is not recognized correctly. Maybe there is a solution for this, but i came not across that. I had problems with the z-offset for different combinations, but that was a software problem, i guess. Since I don't get paid for tinkering, i would choose the CC-core today: plug-and-print. (The Ender 3 at home sports a steel E3D-nozzle and dual-gear direct drive. For flexible/abrasive materials and learning purposes. If it fails one evening, it gets repaired later.)

The cores are very well z-height-wise calibrated, which makes them interchangeable. It is a business reason for professional users, not ultimaker. (IMHO: the price for a core is high.) Filled filaments require a bigger nozzle bore to avoid clogging. And after all: abrasive filament will wear out your soft brass nozzle within short length of filament. (<1kg with CF). We have 3DSolex at work (UM3+S5), we bought it a few days before CC was released. Now I would opt for CC-Core.