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Everything posted by Bossler

  1. Hm, komisch - das billige Aldi-Haarspray hat bei mir überhaupt nicht gefunzt. DDP? Was genau nutzt du denn da?
  2. CPE+ ist inzwischen mein bevorzugtes Material für mechanisch belastete Teile. Was die Haftung angeht, so habe ich in 100% der Fälle Erfolg mit 3D-Lac-Spray pur auf der Glasplatte. Gerade in Kombination mit CPE+ ideal, denn die Drucke lösen sich nach dem Erkalten der Druckplatte quasi von selbst ab. Das Spray kostet zwar rund 11,-€ pro Dose, ist aber sehr ergiebig. Eine dünne Schicht reicht.
  3. afaik BioFila from TwoBears should be food safe. They also provide BioFila that is said to be stable up to 130°C. It's some PLA-derivate and they are very keen on sustainability. They even do not use sealed plastic bags for their filament - which I personally think is a bit too sustainable, but okay. For Taulmann's Nylon 910 it's explicitly stated to be FDA-approved.
  4. I always encounter problems with BVOH - it dissolves fast, yes. But not completely. There are always some remains that are hard to remove. Even with a powerful Ultrasonic-Cleaner. I must say that as of current the Ultimaker PVA works better for me. Also, BVOH works nice with PLA and the like but does not work good with ABS.
  5. Wow - you sound so very convinced, I think I will try what you suggest. Thanks.
  6. But the UM3 will still not work with just one print core installed - even if the print does require only one print core... So it certainly does not help that cura is so intelligent to recognize that you only use one nozzle...
  7. This is certainly not related to the size of memory, my friend. Did you read what I wrote? Completely? I did write about processor load...
  8. From what I saw in the prints I would agree regarding ringing. Yes, that is for shure as good or bad as it was with the R3D N2. What a pitty.
  9. I wonder, how that works, kman. If you have a 0.4 mm nozzle and say it's 0.26, wouldn't that lead to a massive overlap of lines? And teh other way around I would suspect bad to no adhesion between the lines in the horizontal direction?
  10. Well, for me the UM2 was no option since I need a dual extruder and did not want to experiment with tinkering on the UM2 to get dual extrusion. Compared to the printhead of my former printer, the R3D N2, the printhead of the UM3 is still a lightweight! Just the Direct Extruder of the N2 weights close to 800 gramms... So I would think that the UM3 should be able to go much faster. Is the printer/Cura somehow protected against to high acceleration/jerk values? Because I would like to see how the prints look like when I increase them - but I a
  11. SMH - you may missed to include the pictures;-)
  12. So when using a Solex3D PrintCore with say a 1 mm nozzle I would set Line Width (under "Quality") to 1 mm and that's it? And no influence of the "Print core" selection in Cura (e.g. leave that at AA 0.4)?
  13. Well, certainly, that's the advantage of being able to change nozzles. Any experience regarding print quality/reliability/ease of use of the Solex3D-Printcores? Are they comparable with the original ones or do even have advantages here?
  14. Thanks, gr5. So despite the advantage that I can change the nozzle size of the print core - what other advantages do the Solex printcores offer?
  15. I have printed other things which are water tight already (okay, not on the UM3 but on the R3D N2). As you, dxp, I have used PLA back then. I wonder what I can change with the Nylon to get a better layer adhesion. Printing even slower? Hm.
  16. I just treat "20°" as a good value and good it is;-) I have also replaced the silica with some color changing so I guess I will know when it's time to dry it. By the way - which silica do you use? The one I have inside the box right now was quite expensive and I am looking for "bulk material" to build dry boxes myself.
  17. With Cura 3.2 compared to Cura 3.1: it starts a little bit faster on my MacBook Pro Retina but the other issues - slow slicing, close to unusable layer view - remain the same. Just opened another thread about that - did not recognize this one before, sorry.
  18. I've been using Cura 3.1 and now am using Cura 3.2 on a MacBook Pro Retina. This machine is equipped with an iCore 7 / 2.5-3.7GHz main CPU plus an AMD Radeon R9 M370X GPU. I have checked that Cura uses the Raedon GPU and it does. But the performance when slicing and - especially annoying - dealing with layer preview after slicing a bit more complicated models is really bad, sorry. There has to be some substantial design flaw in the software because the system described above is quite capable. When looking at this picture: ...you s
  19. Une autre pointe pour l'impression avec du nylon: Si vous avez des problèmes avec le gauchissement, essayez 3DLac-Spray. Ça marche mieux avec moi sur la plaque de verre. Une fine couche (une fois dans le sens de la longueur, une fois en croix) suffit. --- Je viens de l'apprendre: Si vous avez effectué des réglages différents des réglages "Standard" (en mode personnalisé), et ne le réinitialise pas avec "jeter", si vous sélectionnez le matériau, alors vous pouvez utiliser le calque Hauteur Ne pas régler (en mode "Recommandé")!
  20. Je n'ai jamais utilisé le mode recommandé par Cura avant, désolé. Il est en effet étrange que le matériau ait un fond orange. En ce qui concerne le réglage de la hauteur des couches, je regardais juste. En fait - Je ne peux pas changer cela dans "ma cura" en mode "recommandé". Peut-être que quelqu'un d'autre a une idée qui pourrait aider?
  21. Que voulez-vous changer exactement dans les réglages du nylon (ou TPU)? Ou ont changé? L'épaisseur de la couche est un paramètre qui peut être choisi - relativement - indépendamment du matériau. Vous pouvez imprimer n'importe quel matériau en différentes épaisseurs de couches.... Relatif, parce que certains matériaux ne peuvent pas être raisonnablement imprimés dans toutes les épaisseurs de couches. Il en va de même pour la vitesse d'impression. Les paramètres tels que la rétraction, par exemple, sont également différents et essentiellement par maté
  22. Compared with another humidity meter. That one says "low". Which means <20°. So the meter in the polybox is at least "a bit" off...
  23. Hm, strange. Maybe the humidity meter is a bit off at my Polybox. The silica is dry, that's not the problem. I did even try with additional silica but it does not go below 20°...
  24. I did a bigger print with Taulmann Alloy 910. First: Print went surprisingly well without warping issues with the front cover in place and 3DLac as adhesive on the glass plate. No stringing issues as well. (ignore the benchy, it's included just for size comparison;-) To be solved issue: The final print turned out to be not water tight! So when I filled the bucket with water, it started to drop out and to fill even the walls...:-( Looks like the stuff is not really bonding to well to itself, right? While the print se
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