Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • Country
  • Industry

Recent Profile Visitors

456 profile views

Hertz's Achievements



  1. UPDATE: After practising desoldering small components for a few days, I am confident to say that I would just screw it up. So that seemingly easy solution was not that easy! So in the Duet Wifi goes. I already started wiring it in. Just need to find or create a good Config, and make things neat and tidy, as they where.
  2. Oh, good catch! I will need to verify that. I guess that its no idea to try and install the smallform version of the driver? Bien pris! 😉
  3. Hi guys! I appreciate all the answers and help. Ah, so the 2208 are simple drop-ins? GREAT! That is great news :) Merci! Si vous voudrez, je comprends français. Je suis un étranger qui habit en île-de-France. YES, but also no! I got the Mark2 upgrade installed, and if I can wait a bit longer with the more expensive upgrade and be forced to learn how to re-program the Mark2 part.... Im happy 😉. I got enough on my plate for a little while longer, so one thing at a time. Thanks! I will start with dismanteling a Melzi board and some other useless pieces of e-scrap I got lying around. Cant be THAT hard! Is there a maximum recommended length for the jumper cables for the drivers? Ill need to start figuring out how to mount them. I am leaning towards heatpaste-glueing them to a big piece of aluminim heatsink, itself glued to the bottom plate.
  4. thanks for your answer, Curven! So you do believe it is possible? If I fail, or I cant do this, I will just replace it with a Duet3d card anyway (which is what I got on my other machine). So... failure is an option! I am not very experienced at soldering, but I think I could de-solder those, and solder in thin wire, jumper cables and add the steppers on those, like this: EDIT: Obviously the would have to be soldered straight into the board, as there are not connectors there.. but otherwise like this. That would be a bit messy, but I could accept it. It would be a solution to keep the machine and user interface as it is, but cut down on the noise. So any of the silent Trinamic ones would work. Any eventual firmware changes... I guess that might be as complicated again?
  5. So, UM2, changing stepper drivers.. No one that can chime in with any advice or experience?
  6. Hi! I have been toying with my UM2 for a good while, ugrading to a "+", installing the awesome Mark2 kit, and so on. I have also been playing with a cheap chinese printer, where I added the great and modern Duet2Wifi card. I love that, and especially I do appreciate the silence offered! I do like the UM2 intuitive scroll-wheel and screen, and my wife knows how to use it. So I would like to try to simply silence it down, to keep it modern and working all night long. So, to change the stepper drivers for say, X&Y to begin with, what model could be recommended, genuine Watterot 2208? And how "drop in" would it be? I got a cheap solder iron and an itch! I guess its a question of de-soldering, soldering the new ones, the right way around, and a minor change in the software?
  7. Yes, it is correct. I should probably open a separate thread for this, as by now I am certain what isnt the fault. It isnt the fault of the extruder, just something hidden somewhere. Probably something embarrassingly simple, but so far, I havent found it. but it isnt nozzle or filament diameter. Well, now I am printing a 24h print, it works well, only had to adjust flow quite a bit. I hope a solution will appear,but until then I guess I'll accept the anomality, s I couldnt find a solution over almost two days of my spare time doing almost only that!
  8. Yeah, I have tried everything in my power. Loading the files from two different computers, a PC and a Mac, so it shouldnt be Cura. I installed the drivers and factory rebooted several times. All different versions. in Tinkerware I see that the E-steps are now correctly 311, and when I "move material" 100mm I saw with my digital caliphers that it was exactly 100mm... But still, prints turn to porridge! CJS: between yesterday and now until I reinstalled Tinkerware, it pushed it not even a quarter of the tube in the "change material" sequence. Now I tried that again thanks to your question, and with Tinkerware it pushed it almost all the way as it should. Still, the printing looks like porridge. I'm fairly certain it is something completely random fault somewhere, but I just cant find it!
  9. It is quite possible it is to high, but it was good before I changed, and the change is not that immense. It is litterally exruding four times as much as needed, and that doesn't correspond to the difference in the two excruders. I bought a used UM2 that I upgraded to a "+", and now put this Bondtech excruder on. I confirm that I did.....nt do that. I updated the driver from their (Bondtech) site. That's what I thought I was supposed to do. Works best so far, except for the now obligatory and quite inexplainable 25% flow situation.. I was playing with Tinkerware the other week and liked it, except for when it made the machine go loco. I tried it today again, and it still did make it go loco, and I simply havent found the relevant numbers to put in for not to break of an axis, yet. Otherwise it is what I hope to get running on permanence soon enough. I want my UM2+ running almost 24/7 too. For reasons... Yes, I can see a huge difference in the grip, pull and grinding actions of this superior piece of hardware! Really a good investment that will pay itself of in the long run in sawed filament and non-failed prints! I did factory reset it quite a few times today. I don't even know what do do with that G-code file.. I did those same five steps. Alas, I must have displeased the god(s?) of electronics today. Tinkerware bugged for me to much, and I reinstalled and rebooted the machine completely. Yeah, those problems are hardly problems at all! I can live with those if I can avoid grinding filament and stopping hour-long prints with this much better excruder. And yes, those solutions are complicated. To complicated for me, too! Perhaps there is a memory to empty or some odd number somewhere? What is striking me while looking at this testprint I printed here and now, is that exactly 25% flow is needed. ie. Somewhere its "times 4" on the calculation on how much filament to excrude. does definitively not correspond to a mix-up with steps/mm. I can not for certain say its because of the Bondtech driver, or... Dum dum dum.... A ghost in the machine? A kid changing a setting in my Cura installation to mess with me?? It works so well otherwise! Thanks for all the responses and helpful advice guys, much appriciated!
  10. Hi guys, I just today recieved and installed my Bondtech DDG and installed their new driver.Hardware is definitively awesome, but somewhere something is wrong, as anything I tried to print looked like porridge cause of super-over excrusion. Now I'm printing at 25% Material Flow and it kinda looks right, will probably go down a bit more for next print. Still, there must be a value somewhere thats a bit off that I can do to rectify this? ( ie. it pushes out at least 4 times as much plastic as it "should" at 100%) I also installed Tinkerware and it gave problems on the X,Y axis. (I tried a few times back and forth between tinker, ulti, and bondtech's drivers, Probably part of the problem) So for the end of the day I factory rebooted it with ultimakers drivers, and then again, with the bondtech. Any idea where the problem is hiding? Changing flow only masks it, and is unprofessional!
  • Create New...