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TMicke

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    81
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14 Good

About TMicke

  • Birthday 12/01/1973

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    Other
  • Country
    SE
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2+

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131 profile views
  1. Finally, success 😄 Thanks to @tinkergnome. The settings aren't mine to share but you know who to ask if you need help.
  2. Once again, ty! My bending goal is that the result I got was laughable, but now I clearly see that most probably I’ve done some bad printings. (It is possible that the filament was bad but as I’ve said earlier, three rolls with different colors gave the same result so I don’t consider that very likely) I’m not looking for flexibility per say, just a print that doesen’t snap the moment I twist it. If I printed that model in PLA I think I could twist and bend it like you have done. My main purpose was for this phone holder to withstand the summer heat in my car. What you have shown me with your pictures is exactly what I was expecting to get with my prints. If I twisted my print a fraction of what you did in your pictures from this last post it snapped, cracked, split as you can se in in the picture from my initial posting, in diagonal none the less wich led me to belive that it was truly brittle as the layer bonding was great. And I easily did with my bare hands. Tomorrow I will try your fff file, I didn’t see any real difference in it from what I remeber to have tried but something sure is different with our results. Will get back with my results tomorrow when my current printing is done.
  3. Thank you! May I be a PITA and ask for one more thing, if you bend and/or twist it in the wider part, where mine is cracked in the picture, will it still be in one piece? The reason I'm asking is that I could do the same in that area of the part that you bent yours, but as soon as I tried to bend elsewhere it cracked. Sorry if I've been bad at explaining. No need for more pictures though.
  4. TMicke

    How to upset your colleagues

    Haha, thats awesome! Next time replace the printed model with another one 🙂
  5. Well, I do not know for sure. It makes my head spin when every manufacturer wants to brand it with their own name. It does not snap crackle and pop while printing (pun intended) and their is no steam either. From what I have understood there should not be much of an concern if your RH is below 50%, when using PET and PETG. Here in Sweden it's the last of the highest humidity off the year, inside at the moment I'm having about 58% according to my two, don't know correct name; things that measure humidity 😄 (gauge or meter i suppose...) Speaking of PETG, isn't true that ColorFabbs XT is PETG as well? Is Co-Polyester PETG? Or does all Co-Polyester just share the same characteristics that they collect moisture? Would greatly appreciate if you could make a testprint, I will PM you the files with further instructions as how to bend 😉
  6. I am painfully aware that it should be 😢 so obviously I’m doing something wrong. If I posted the model from my first post, would you be willing to print out the top part like I did, and then fold the print once, take a picture and post it here. (Not that I wouldn’t trust you, but some things you just want to see for your self) I’m really all out of ideas. I had some trouble with nozzle and coupler before but that is all good now, just thinking out loud. Can’t say for sure that I tried with fans off, but for the most part I used to have the fans set to 10-15%. I have two rolls of PETG, but I’m waiting for humidity in my house to drop a little more. I’m kind of convenient and don’t like the idea that I have to put my roll in the owen before each print. Maybe I have to do that regardless? Maybe a bucket for my roll with rice bags in it and a small hole in the lid for the filament to come through, that probably is the “best” solution?
  7. How big of a difference was 230C and 240C compared to 235C? If you look at my pictures in the first post, could that be the difference between say 230C and 235C?
  8. TMicke

    Owens Corning XSTRAND™

    There is never anything wrong with ordering from Sweden, but I could be bias 🙄
  9. I’m not really convinced by nGen, I think I had it printing as good as it gets*. I thought it would be more resilient but my feeling is that PLA is stronger in the sense I’m looking for. I think a part of my problems at one point with nGen was due to HT, it clogged my nozzle ever so tiny, a little bit more every time i used It. And I deformed my teflon coupler. At the time I was jumping between nGen, HT and two different PLA leaving me with nothing but confusion. Just a heads up if you haven’t already noticed. *edit: What I meant to say was that I could not get better results, not that the filament wasn’t better
  10. TMicke

    Problem with Top/Bottom Line Directions

    Problem solved, well at least I know how to avoid it. Thanks @smartavionics for your help. For anyone else that it might help; I had two models intersecting, a Viking and a Sword, see screen dump. To get rid of the problems with bottom line directions I raised the sword 1mm, so that it did NOT touch the bed. To be able to do that you have to make sure that 'Automatically [....] to the build plate' is un-checked in the preferences.
  11. TMicke

    Problem with Top/Bottom Line Directions

    Thank you for your time, much appreciated. Since I’m a newbie with Cura I just want to ask, is this a reacurring error when merging models in Cura; am I better of merging them in another program? Sidenote; Just my luck, first attempt with Cura some month back it just started printing when I pressed print via USB without heating or homing any axes, pretty soon it slammed straight in the side and grinded against the printer wall. Managed somehow to get that to work. Then I printed one model with lots of support and I have never witnessed so many retractions and the travel speed was way to high so I was waiting for the printer to fall apart. Then I corrected that, I think, and next print got wasted with a clogged nozzle leaving it printing air. Probably this tells more about me than the program 🙄
  12. TMicke

    Problem with Top/Bottom Line Directions

    Voila 🙂 UM2_Viking_stat_sword_high.3mf
  13. Using Cura 3.5 on a Mac. Am I missing something or does the top/bottom line directions not work as it should? If i leave it empty between the brackets or if i fill in numbers is the same, first layer 45° (I presume), second and all the rest is 0° (or actually more like 1 or 2° when looking at in the printer while it prints, ever so slightly the X axle moves back and forth while printing layer 2 and up.
  14. I would love to be able to use my spacemouse in Cura.
  15. TMicke

    Anyone used Add:north filament

    I've made some progress. Two changes, nozzle size and printing temp, but the temp is what made the difference. Still needs improvement on overhangs but the overall quality is IMHO much better. Filament - add:north X-PLA The model is 80mm high. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3054970 Slicer S3D Printer UM2+ Temp 190°, First layer 210° Otherwise it did not adhere to my bed Speed 45mm/s Layer .15mm Nozzle .60mm Printed width .55mm
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