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Everything posted by TMicke

  1. Fantastic work, top notch. Personally I can't see how this could be improved any further. You are the King! I read some about your fine motor issues, I wish you the best recovery possible and are looking forward to see more of your work!
  2. That would be my guess as well, unfortunately I’m not the one to help you with that. /Micke
  3. I think you’re on to something, if your SD crashes explorer it seems likely it would cause problems with the printer. I wish you the best of luck
  4. and... Welcome! Happy to hear about your new printer, not that you’re having problems of course.
  5. Have you tried to run the same gcode again, and just restart the printer?
  6. When the UM2+ retracts, there is a sound (a double beep), change speed of retractions and the pitch changes. What makes that sound, and can it be stopped or at least reduced? *edit Bondtech’s ultimaker 2 kit contains a vibration isolation between motor and chassis and the gearbox itself has vibration isolation foam. https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/qr-ultimaker-2-kit/ I guess this answers my question. If anyone who has one of these installed can confirm I would appreciate it. Thanks
  7. On and off I've used Tinker FW in my UM2+ for about a year. On and off I've had a strange behavior as my printer sometimes pauses while printing and starts to retract filament with different speeds from time to time. Sometimes it doesn't retract the filament all the way out and then loads filament back in and continues to print. Sometimes it retracts the filament all the way out and thus can't load it back in and then starts to print without filament. Every time this has happened it continues to print, of course sometimes without having any filament. This has happened maybe 10-15 times over a one year period. Yesterday it happened again, with "full" speed it retracted the filament all the way out but I heard it so I was quickly there and put the filament back in and saw to it that it got loaded back. Then I noticed something else, it skipped a layer or two, see picture. This has puzzled me in the past. A few times I've had prints like this, unknowing of the reason. I have blamed the filament or the nozzle thinking it had clogged and loosened upp again after a while, but quite possibly it is this phenomena that is the culprit. I wish I could remember if the bed lowered a bit and if the head moved to a specific position, but i think it just stops where it is at and does its thing. I am currently on Tinker 19.03.1 but have had the same issues with 18.11.1 and 17.10.1 as well. And to be totally honest I cant to 100% rule out that it hasn't happened with original FW too. I really should have paid more attention to this but in the heat of the moment I get really upset thinking all kinds of nasty things. Then the next day it's business as usual and (almost) all is forgotten. I have only read about one other person having had this problem, are we really the only ones? Cus then it sounds more like a hardware error to me. Previously I have wondered if I'm causing this when I shift between using S3D, Cura, USB and SD, but since the last time I installed Tinker FW I have ONLY used Cura and have been printing exclusively from SD cards, I have not had my USB cable inserted into the printer since. After I installed Tinker I made a factory reset on the printer, as I always have. On a few occasions I have started the same print (gcode) again and it has printed correctly. Approximately 20 seconds after this particular print started again it was at a height of 52.20mm (according to info in display). I'm not very keen on trying this print again because I made some error with the model (so I wont be able to use it anyway) and my experience is that it will work when trying a second time. Plus its a 10hr print. Ror.gcode
  8. Thank you! That explains it perfectly to me. /Micke
  9. As I read this: https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position I'm a bit confused, and I would like to avoid ramming my nozzle in my printbed while trying. I want to manually add a 0.1mm offset of my Z axis (0.1mm additional space between nozzle and bed), should I enter 'G92 Z0.1'? Or should it be: G1 Z0.1 G92 Z0 Maybe there is another better way? Using a UM2+ and I intend using it in my start script in S3D when printing PETG. ...and yes, CURA has the Z offset in the settings, I know 😉 But some prints I like doing in S3D
  10. Welcome to the community! As for the Nylon, the only (potential) issue I can see is temperature. That is to ensure your hardware can handle it. The PTFE coupler in particular. I dont have all the data in my head so if someone else want to fill in or if you make some searching yourself. The original coupler does not like temperature above 260°C and the original fw does not allow you to print with higher temp. With my 2+ I'm having a hard time getting the bed to higher temps than 108°C but there is a lot of people claiming to get higher.
  11. Did you solve your problem? I have the same problem every now and then (tinker V19.03.1); A few days ago while I was printing the printing stopped and the filament was retracting. I turned off the printer and started over again, with a new gcode file. This time it also stopped mid print and started to retract, but this time I waited to see what happend next and after maybe 10 seconds it started feeding the filament back in and started printing again. These two incidents was from gcode's made from Cura 4.0.0 Yesterday I printed a file from s3d and at the end, when finished, it retracted all the filament out of the bowden tube. Worth mentioning is that I had same thing happening in the past with tinker 17.x.x and that I have made approximately 100 prints with no incidents (that I know of) At the time I was mostly annoyed and destroyed the gcode files so I have nothing to share, but if someone knows whats going on I would appreciate som help.
  12. Well, if there not secret how about telling the rest of us how you handle the information, where it’s stored and so on. Not looking for 50 pages of data, just the basics. Thanks
  13. Most of my profiles from Cura 3.6.0 does not show up in 4.0 Is there a simple way to fix this or am I just to export-import them one by one? Using a Mac. The UI looks nice though, from what I've seen so far 🙂
  14. TMicke

    PVA filament

    Thats a really good practice, I think I might just borrow that idea the day I start to experiment with my petg rolls 🙂
  15. Trying to reach ultimaker.com but is being greeted by '502 Bad Gateway' Just a heads up if you weren't aware
  16. Again, I don't know the right terminology but put simply: you wont be able to edit the threads on an .stl file in any program, you would need the "master" file for this. Did you make the model yourself in FormZ, or have you downloaded a .stl file and wishes to edit it?
  17. I don't have the language skills to explain this in detail, but you cant edit .stl files in fusion 360. My suggestion is/was to make new parts in fusion 360. You then convert those files into .stl files. *edit From the looks of your picture this would be quite simple actually, and it would be a great project to get to learn fusion 360 if your up to it.
  18. This might be a really stupid answer (or rather not an answer at all), but if you could consider using another software I have a suggestion; I’m using Fusion 360 that’s made by autodesk. It’s free to use for personal and educational use. It’s available for Mac and PC. There you easily can make threaded bolts and nuts and what ever you like. It has a ton of different threads built in that you easily can choose from. Best of luck!
  19. That is so cool! I haven’t looked at the video, I cant use audio at the moment. If it isn’t explained in there I would love to hear more about how you “attached” it to the car, how it held up and so forth.
  20. https://www.3dprima.com/primacreator-reprap-m6-brass-nozzle-0-6-x-1/a-22767/ Have been printing with theese for a short period of time and they seems ok.
  21. It feels like you nail every question I have and the next three as well. It is time to do some experimenting on my own now, it's easy to get lazy and start asking about every little thing. I have previously asked you about 3D-Coat in an other subject, and you made me wanting to give it a go and I downloaded the demo, then now on black Friday they (3D-Coat) had an offer with $100 taken of the standard price and I could not resist. Haven't told my wife yet though... Just wanted to let you know and that I appreciate it a lot. *edit; your help and input that is.
  22. Ohh, great! This will have me busy for a good while 😄
  23. Thank you so much! In my screenshot I have converted to voxel choosing 10,000,000 as voxel value and the edge still isn't sharp? Tried 15,000,000 but then my computer started to argue with me and wouldn't let me do anything smoothly afterwards. Could you load my STL file and see what value you would choose? This particular model is to be used as a lid on an small glass I have with salt water.
  24. I am trying to import an STL made in Fusion 360 into 3D-Coat. I want to add some texture to the surface and basically just learn. But I cant figure out how to maintain sharpness/quality of my model. I'm hoping for some guidance from @kmanstudios or anyone else who has actually worked in 3D-Coat. I will let my screenshots do the rest of the talking since I'm not really familiar with what I'm doing and therefore don't really know how to describe my issue in a good way. Lock saltvatten.stl
  25. Why Maestro instead of wifi or ethernet? And thank you for the links to the railcore (is that right, is it called a railcore?) It looks very interesting. Do you have one, and can you tell me a little more about it then, and compared to a UM2. It’s very satisfying and fun to build your own printer. My first one was a Velleman 8400 that came in pieces, bought it the day before christmas. Made me feel like a child again ?
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