TMicke
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Posts posted by TMicke
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6 hours ago, SandervG said:
Great! I'm very happy to hear you found it useful. This is the best feedback we can receive.
I'm sorry, perhaps I've grown blind to it. What would be the typo specifically? 🧐
Thanks!
Now that I should try to explain I’m not entirely sure anymore 😂
Maybe it’s just my poor language skills, but doesn’t the two explanations I marked with bold text contradict each other? Or are they saying the same thing in other words?
And typo was probably the wrong word to use.
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I can only concur with previous posters!
Sidebar and Octoprint plugins are a must for me, and thank you for all the help you provide us with on the forum(s). You are a 3D printing hero 😉
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This is very good indeed, and with lots of pictures explaining it even better. I for one have misinterpreted some settings that now makes perfect sense again.
Sorry for bringing this up, but isn’t there a typo here? (Under shell settings)
QuoteNo skin in Z gaps
Small gaps between the layers in the Z-direction of a model can be “fixed” by using this setting. Disabling it will ensure the layers will fuse together by printing infill between the bottom and top of the gap. If you disable this setting, it won’t fill the gap and will simply print the bottom and top as they appear in the model.
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28 minutes ago, ctbeke said:
You can merge the models indeed via the guide above. Note that this only works if the models both have the same origin (reference to 0, 0, 0), as there's no way Cura (or any other CAD/CAM program for that matter) can know the required position otherwise.
May I suggest a rename of Merge models to Auto align or maybe original alignment.
Nevertheless I'm very happy that it was possible :)
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32 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:
I think you're looking for "Merging models" (second half of this manual page):
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52852-merge-and-group-models
That is the way 😉
Thanks!
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See my picture, trying to make a dual color print.
Is there a way to auto position the pieces like they where in the CAD program? It's PITA to manually put them in place.
*edit, I'm using CURA 4.3.0
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Newbie tutorial (written with myself in mind):
On your calculator type in the following:
0.6
/
1.45
And now press button marked in image below
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1 hour ago, AndersK said:
Roughly scale with 0,745 , or more exact, sqrt3 (0,6/1,45)
"Tredje roten ur..." in our language 😉
See, thats the problem, can't even recalling ever heard 'tredje roten ur' 😄 Men alltid kul att läsa lite svenska...
I guess I'm out of my league here, but is that (sqrt3 (0,6/1,45)) the actual formula. I'm mostly thinking of of that 'sqrt3' thingie. Or is this solvable with just multiplying and/or dividing?
*I guess I don't make a lot of sense due to my ignorance. I looked at my calculator and found that sqrt3 function and managed to get the result you gave me so hopefully I can remember this.
Thank you Anders!
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I guess I wasn’t clear enough.
-If I have a model of a cup that holds 1.45L and I wish to resize it in Cura so that it prints a cup holding 0.6L ; how do I make that calculation? (By hand of course)
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I have a model of a 1.45 liter cup, how do i calculate it to be a 0.6 liter cup?
lets just say that it wasn’t just my history teacher that cried 😂
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On 8/19/2019 at 8:03 PM, kmanstudios said:
Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked.
Fantastic work, top notch. Personally I can't see how this could be improved any further.
You are the King!
I read some about your fine motor issues, I wish you the best recovery possible and are looking forward to see more of your work!
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That would be my guess as well, unfortunately I’m not the one to help you with that.
/Micke
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I think you’re on to something, if your SD crashes explorer it seems likely it would cause problems with the printer.
I wish you the best of luck
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and... Welcome!
Happy to hear about your new printer, not that you’re having problems of course.
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1 hour ago, Overkill777 said:
I haven't been able to find a pattern here, it seems pretty random. If it ruins the print I usually just shut it down, restart cura, re-slice and run it again. It is usually fine after doing this.
Have you tried to run the same gcode again, and just restart the printer?
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When the UM2+ retracts, there is a sound (a double beep), change speed of retractions and the pitch changes.
What makes that sound, and can it be stopped or at least reduced?
*edit
Bondtech’s ultimaker 2 kit contains a vibration isolation between motor and chassis and the gearbox itself has vibration isolation foam.
https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/qr-ultimaker-2-kit/
I guess this answers my question.
If anyone who has one of these installed can confirm I would appreciate it.
Thanks
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On and off I've used Tinker FW in my UM2+ for about a year.
On and off I've had a strange behavior as my printer sometimes pauses while printing and starts to retract filament with different speeds from time to time.
Sometimes it doesn't retract the filament all the way out and then loads filament back in and continues to print.
Sometimes it retracts the filament all the way out and thus can't load it back in and then starts to print without filament.
Every time this has happened it continues to print, of course sometimes without having any filament.
This has happened maybe 10-15 times over a one year period.
Yesterday it happened again, with "full" speed it retracted the filament all the way out but I heard it so I was quickly there and put the filament back in and saw to it that it got loaded back.
Then I noticed something else, it skipped a layer or two, see picture. This has puzzled me in the past. A few times I've had prints like this, unknowing of the reason. I have blamed the filament or the nozzle thinking it had clogged and loosened upp again after a while, but quite possibly it is this phenomena that is the culprit.
I wish I could remember if the bed lowered a bit and if the head moved to a specific position, but i think it just stops where it is at and does its thing.
I am currently on Tinker 19.03.1 but have had the same issues with 18.11.1 and 17.10.1 as well. And to be totally honest I cant to 100% rule out that it hasn't happened with original FW too. I really should have paid more attention to this but in the heat of the moment I get really upset thinking all kinds of nasty things. Then the next day it's business as usual and (almost) all is forgotten.
I have only read about one other person having had this problem, are we really the only ones? Cus then it sounds more like a hardware error to me.
Previously I have wondered if I'm causing this when I shift between using S3D, Cura, USB and SD, but since the last time I installed Tinker FW I have ONLY used Cura and have been printing exclusively from SD cards, I have not had my USB cable inserted into the printer since.
After I installed Tinker I made a factory reset on the printer, as I always have.
On a few occasions I have started the same print (gcode) again and it has printed correctly.
Approximately 20 seconds after this particular print started again it was at a height of 52.20mm (according to info in display).
I'm not very keen on trying this print again because I made some error with the model (so I wont be able to use it anyway) and my experience is that it will work when trying a second time. Plus its a 10hr print.
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Thank you! That explains it perfectly to me.
/Micke
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As I read this:
https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position
I'm a bit confused, and I would like to avoid ramming my nozzle in my printbed while trying.
I want to manually add a 0.1mm offset of my Z axis (0.1mm additional space between nozzle and bed), should I enter 'G92 Z0.1'?
Or should it be:
G1 Z0.1
G92 Z0
Maybe there is another better way?
Using a UM2+ and I intend using it in my start script in S3D when printing PETG. ...and yes, CURA has the Z offset in the settings, I know 😉 But some prints I like doing in S3D
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Welcome to the community!
As for the Nylon, the only (potential) issue I can see is temperature. That is to ensure your hardware can handle it. The PTFE coupler in particular. I dont have all the data in my head so if someone else want to fill in or if you make some searching yourself. The original coupler does not like temperature above 260°C and the original fw does not allow you to print with higher temp.
With my 2+ I'm having a hard time getting the bed to higher temps than 108°C but there is a lot of people claiming to get higher.
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On 4/8/2019 at 5:48 PM, RetromanIE said:
I've used the tinker firmware in the past and loved it. But after a few issues I stopped and stuck to the standard firmware for the last 9-12 months. I just updated to the latest firmware to test and it works great apart from one issue at the very end of some prints(not all prints for some reason).
What it does is at the very end of the print (once completed) it does a large retract. Its happend 3 or 4 times in the last day or two(since installing the firmware). The first retract was about 130-150mm, and the last one a few mins ago retracted all the way out of the bowden to the feeder. The head doesn't move away from the print while doing the retract and so far it hasnt actually had any impact on the printed objects.
Did you solve your problem?
I have the same problem every now and then (tinker V19.03.1);
A few days ago while I was printing the printing stopped and the filament was retracting. I turned off the printer and started over again, with a new gcode file. This time it also stopped mid print and started to retract, but this time I waited to see what happend next and after maybe 10 seconds it started feeding the filament back in and started printing again. These two incidents was from gcode's made from Cura 4.0.0
Yesterday I printed a file from s3d and at the end, when finished, it retracted all the filament out of the bowden tube.
Worth mentioning is that I had same thing happening in the past with tinker 17.x.x and that I have made approximately 100 prints with no incidents (that I know of)
At the time I was mostly annoyed and destroyed the gcode files so I have nothing to share, but if someone knows whats going on I would appreciate som help.
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On 3/28/2019 at 3:51 PM, ctbeke said:
Hi,
I'm lead developer for Ultimaker's cloud efforts. If you send me an email on c.terbeke@ultimaker.com, I can send you some information regarding security and privacy in the Ultimaker Cloud. Not that these are secret or anything, but I'd like to engage to get to know your requirements.
Chris
Well, if there not secret how about telling the rest of us how you handle the information, where it’s stored and so on.
Not looking for 50 pages of data, just the basics.
Thanks
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Most of my profiles from Cura 3.6.0 does not show up in 4.0
Is there a simple way to fix this or am I just to export-import them one by one?
Using a Mac.
The UI looks nice though, from what I've seen so far 🙂
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14 hours ago, RudydG said:
i measure the length needed, add some an cut that off the big roll PVA. Then i immediatly reseal the rest of the roll.
Thats a really good practice, I think I might just borrow that idea the day I start to experiment with my petg rolls 🙂
Cura settings: Improving naming and descriptions
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
This was news to me and useful information. Vase mode I was familiar with previously.
just a thought; it’s hard to make examples of confusing names if you doesn’t now that there are two or more names for it, my point is that maybe you more knowledgeable guys could chime in here.
I really like @ghostkeeper plugin but how about a crossbreed, hover a setting and get a written explanation together with pictures and some examples. This would probably be really annoying for some so maybe it would be possible to choose different levels of descriptions depending on which ‘level’ you’re on?
I like screen dumps a lot, from the slicer explaining exactly how the different values come to play together with some words of why and when you should and shouldn’t use them.