Stefania Dinea

@ShopGeezer - you read my mind with that question - I gave up- I am using the 3.3.1 cura that I had installed on an older pc that I use on vacations 😁

How can network be a problem since i have been using it at home over wifi ever since I got the Ultimaker 3 which was more than two years ago and never had a problem? To be honest Cura started crashing on me since last week and it is really a buzz kill for my printing deadlines. I have to look into that cura log file and how to submit it but I doubt this is network related and I am getting the same random crash sequences. @SandervG can you help us get in contact with the right person??

Hello community, After the success of last year, also in part to your support (👇👇👇here is the post from last year👇👇👇) we gave the start to the HALO Pavilion and have it ready for assembly on the following date: March 14-15, 2020 // Helsingborg, Sweden The greatest 3D-printing event in the Nordics The Halo Pavilion The goal is to build a fully modular structure produced entirely on modern desktop 3D-printers. With the help from the 3D community in Sweden and around the world we aim to complete this project and assemble it throughout the first day of the event. The structure, composed of 400 pieces has a size of approximately 3 meters by 5,3 meters and the height comes in at between 2,7 and 4 meters. This thing is huge! The assembly is done through the use of zipties. See more images below. Also, please make sure to share this page with your friends. We would also love it if you could upload photos of your printing progress to social medias. Please use the hashtags #3DMSPP and #3DMS2020 when posting. We will do our best to retweet and share your images when we see them. Happy printing! SIGN UP HERE: https://3dmeetup.se/community-print/ We learned from last year that a glue gun is not the solution but instead zip ties as a connection method. In addition to last year, this year we are going to introduce wooden bars as additional structure element connected in turn also by 3D printed elements - as in the video above. Hope to see some of you there this year, and I do hope you join this community print again. Thank you.

i am having a similar issue and getting slightly annoyed - since when are prime towers a default?again??(I have the right print-core combination ) but can't seem to get rid of the rower....

@BiMNrd Yes and no, you will already have a like brim created by the base of the PVA - you use the pla skirt to extrude some material before the pla print starts, so you can check if it extrudes correctly and to clean the core of pla residue - hope this makes sense.

For a safe bet 1.2 top bottom layer and wall thickness- min 5% infill and i use a skirt not a brim

@BiMNrd i usually use ultimaker pla but I have tried tough to print some sockets wall mounts in tough - i would recommend tough for such things.

@BiMNrd hello, thanks for reaching out. I think @SandervG can give you input on those settings I have my um calibrate for 0.2 layer height in general just to avoid certain issues. As for matte a trick I use is use matte spray after but if you want to go for the kill there are also other materials, non ultimaker brands that offer white matte specifically for architecture models - however they are a trick to print it more than often. The white spray is your fastest alternative. If possible also a little bit of sanding never hurt nobody. Hope this helps.

@yttrium you are not the first/only one expecting this from Autodesk - I can say that this is the main reason this blog is here, that so much time has passed and no one click solution was provided. I started printing about 4 years ago and at that time Revit was still my no. 1 software to go to - I soon changed to Rhino and became more confident in using that software and all it’s visual programing plug-ins to handle massive amount of revit data in regards to 3D printing — the results are that working with revit is time consuming in regards to 3d printing and it will be a never ending story until someone does something about it. This blog is indeed a little light in algoritms since its purpose was to be accesible to everyone , not only people with know how in more than one software. With this being said I would just like to mention again - you are not the only one with these wishes - we, all revit users ,want the same thing in regards to this topic.

@Smithy I am kinda taking my time updating the post - however work in progress like everything else in my life right now. This is a perma-link but I will finish it under the following days -- I hope!! please feel free to add and comment if you want any other extra info https://www.dineadesign.com/2019/04/29/the-equilibrium-pavilion/ Here are some random photos that are also on my blog post for everyone who does't feel like reading. We turned it into a guest book on Sunday - thought it would be cool. after life of the pavilion in a shared office space in Helsingborg:

Your parts did fit like a glove - i think you had one of the top quality prints 😀 however I will come back with a full story soon - it was an experience I can say that much - still today left to hang out

@Smithy Thanks for joining

@Smithy we are going to do a timelaps which is awesome also if you have instagram i will post live updates on my main account @dineadesign 🙃

@Smithy - I am already in Helsingborg - just had my dinner - going for a stroll and then off to the venue to leave my parts there 🙂 and see how things are going to kick off for tomorrow - will take lots of photos and come back with a remark post about it.The most important thing is that it was 100% crowd funder and finished ahead of time - now come what may 🙂

The benchy is one item not a multiple of models that need to be indexed with a logical code - this might consume a lot of time - make sure it is worth it first. Hope this helps.

I have sent you a pm

@Smithy - omg - they look so cool - can I share these photos - do you have an instagram account I can tag you in? I am so happy they are so colorful - mine are all black and white - habit of profession :))

Selling my UM 3 in Sweden for 28 000 kr (postage not included ++ shipment included if you live in Stockholm area) - I had the printer for more than a year and kept it in good condition (due to the fact that I barely have time to be at home and play with it). PM for more info - blocket add will come soon. Thanks 😉

@aag over the years I found the printer materials work best with the printer so by that i mean ultimaker materials work wonders with ultimaker machines, also I have my own custom settings which never failed me - for each diff layer height you should recalibrate your printer also for every nozzle change same thing - recalibrate. Recently I started using the ultimaker custom profiles which I found to be very good. As another tip is that the wall thickness should be a multiple of nozzle thickness and the top bottom thickness should be a multiple of the layer height. Slow speed for me is 45 mm/s 🙂 i usually run at 100 🙂

@PaulK i print everything without a prime towers - those towers are prone to fall down no matter how you do it. I don’t do miniatures but I do print very thin rings with dubious overhangs which requier pva. If you are really concerned do it with support everywhere 😕 but that is a waste of material. Slow speeds is the best solution for high quality.

@aag I have stopped using the prime tower like 2 years ago - it is a pain in the ass and you can print without it too - why are you using it though? any special reason?

@Spentys welcome! 5 new printers?? I am jealous - I hope you will exploit them to the max. As @SandervG said - what we did is described above - we updated the firmware.

@Smithy - the tape idea is really good - i was thinking more towards glue gun 🙂 - but tape is better. Logistics is what I am interested in the most , followed by cost and a lot of comparison between 3D printing and other fabrication methods.

@Smithy personally I am a huge fan of the 0.4 - it’s my everything nozzle however some materials tend to not agree with it (i am talking here about non ultimaker brands) - so i am trying to empty my entire pla collection on this job. I am sure when I will have a backyard I will print the whole thing for myself. The initial pins were a part of the pieces on one side - but due to different printers and tollerances I thought I shouldn’t risk it.

@Smithy the 0.8 works for me - since I use filaments that have fibers and clog 0.4 so 0.8 work just fine in this situation - so I guess depends on the material as well. Glad you found a setting that works. The pins can alter if I made them to tight fit. If there would have been printed all on the same printer with the same settings then it would have been a different story. Thanks for the update.