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Everything posted by livingfractal

  1. Okay. They came out great! no warping. No caving. Perfect extrusion. Ill add photos after some exams. I’m leaving them in the lab for other students to look at (I know they probably won’t). I think ill I’ll need to lower the horizontal expansion to around -.20 what factors affect horizontal expansion?
  2. I was basing the decision off this: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22229-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-cpe I also used a brim. Since I'm going to try to fit all this parts together with dynamic movement I’m really just trying learn how to prevent both. We also use wolfbite - which is supposed to make better adhesion than just stick glue. Either way, they take my student fees no matter how much I use.
  3. The update didn't change my settings. I wonder if it is OS specific. I'm running W10 on a lenovo thinkpad. I also allowed it to uninstall the previous version. My extensions are also still present, though I have no idea if they work (I've never actually used them )
  4. ROUND 3. GO. Adjusted the build plate down to 70C, and the first couple layers at 80C. Added a brim - just in case. Lowered infill back down 20% - I'm kind of green. Turned fan to 1% - I assume there is a fan... Adjusted the horizontal expansion to -.25 (that's the hole the little knub fit into the most snug without taking a mallet to it. I was using the same printer for consistency, but apparently I can't use the force to convince the other thousand qualified students from using it :( Update with photos & results
  5. Nothing broke. They were solid as I wanted. I just figured that since I’m going to give a third run I’d cut one to check that internal structure had also improved. I would have used a bandsaw for a cleaner cut, but they won’t let me into the wood shop without a partner. Thanks for the advice!
  6. Update: Settings: 30/30/20 mmps speed 250C print temp 80C plate temp .15mm height 30% infill grid I really should have came and paused the print in the middle to see if the infill printed better... things to do next time, but for now - DESTRUCTIVE TESTING!. Anywho, walls are much more solid - meaning they are actually solid! Though, I am now seeing some minor warping in the sides. So, any suggestions to fix that. Also, does anyone know what a "slope calibrator" is used for? Printing this thing over a
  7. Considering it’s ran by students who couldn’t figure out how to read a spec sheet...
  8. I dropped the speed to 30/30/20 (speed, infill, wall) and up the temp to 250C. I don't want to exceed the temp range that ultimaker has recommended, because I don't want to piss of the university's workspace supervisor I'll update tomorrow (labs close before the print will finish).
  9. Yeah, I reviewed the spec sheet from Ultimaker and saw that it listed The temp range as 235 to 250. The settings I used were just what the lab supervisor tells everyone to use as the default. Also, I’ve only used copolyester and I assume that’s all that’s been used, but it is a bank of 30 odd printers at a large public university. I think im going to drop the layer height to .15mm, slow the speed down to 30mmps and raise the temp to 250C. Im curious if there is a better infill than trianglular or grid. Grid is what the wiki project recommends, but I plan
  10. Printing a slop_calibrator_parts.stl from the v3.0 snappy reprap. Material: CPE AA 0.4mm Settings: layer height: .2mm speed: 60mm/sec infill: 20% triangular Print temp: 245C Plate Temp: 85C flow: 100% Aborted midprint (for obvious reasons). These are school printers, so it may be hardware. Any solutions?
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