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    General Product Design

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  1. Thanks again Gr5, I came across this great set-by-step tutorial. It's well written, but I'll have to re-read it a few times before I dig into it. I've become spoilt in the age of YouTube - my skills at extracting the info off the page aren't what they were :) https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/207813353-Replacing-Parts-on-the-X-Y-Axis
  2. Hi again Gr5, There are no cracks, at least visible to the naked eye. I'd to abort this print too, as the rear end of the y-axis bar popped out again. I was trying to work out what I changed lately to make it fail - I oiled the printhead's rods - their entire lengths last week. So I think it's as simple as that (un)fortunately! I've wiped them down and added a single circumferential-length of Scotch 3M Magic Tape at the point where the rear rod will be gripped by the slider block. The slippery rods combined with the loose slider could have only one ending. I hope that this print will work and get me through my customer orders while I wait for the new slider blocks to arrive.
  3. Hi Gr5, Sorry, I didn't but I'd tagged the UM3. I've the black ones, so it might be just bad luck. I've gone around the whole unit tightening everything and have another print on at the moment and it looks good - so far. I was in touch with my re-seller and the slider block plastic parts are only a euro plus VAT and delivery, so I'm going to order 4 with the belts. I'd prefer to be looking at them instead of for them, when they do need to be replaced. It's a pain, but I feel relieved to know that they are consumables and do wear out. I was more concerned that it shouldn't be happening or a known problem.
  4. Hi, I'm hoping someone will be able to help me. I've had 4 failed prints in as many days now. I've tightened up the pulleys and the short belts onto the stepper motors. I had luckily printed two alignment clips to ensure that the axis rods were aligned. But the problem is continuing, the slider blocks are not holding the x-axis rod. The rear one pops out mostly, but they're both not adequately holding the rod. It's not loose - just that they can release the rod if it knocked against a building print for example, but the prints are fine - until they stop. There's no evidence of the print head knocking against anything. In Cura I've changed the infill to be 0% and the line number to be 10, to minimise the x-y movements and to fill the interior with just perimeter offsets. This helps to reduce the jerky movements - but it is not solving the problem. I don't want to tape, or otherwise hold the rod in place as I'm concerned that this is the safety mechanism to ensure that the motors are not damaged if the axes are not aligned and forced to print skewed. Can these slider blocks' clasping feature wear out and loosen over time - is this a thing? I've tried to buy the slider blocks and belts from my re-seller, but they're not available in their online shop. TIA.
  5. Hi, What's the pitch of the lead screw in the UM3 - is it 8mm? Here's a great video from Filament Friday on the application of the Magic Number for determining the layer height in the Slicer settings. He has loads of other great tutorials too.
  6. What's the pitch of the lead screw in the UM3 - is it 8mm? Here's a great video from Filament Friday on the application of the Magic Number for determining the layer height in the Slicer settings. He has loads of other great tutorials too.
  7. Hi again Ahoeben, great - I'll try that. Thanks for your help!
  8. Hi Ahoeben, thanks for getting back onto me on NY's Day! I have an UM3 at home and I want to be able to monitor and cancel prints if needed from work or just away from the house. I didn't intend to slice via the OctoPrint, but I was looking forward to being able to run timelapses of the prints. I can access the interface of Cura Connect while on the home network, but how do I do this when offsite? The UM camera viewpoint isn't ideal for determining if a print is succeeding in reality, so I have a babycam sitting on to of my perspex housing for a plan view that I can log into on an app, but it is only to view. I am currently logging into TeamViewer on my home PC to, from an app, then open Cura to cancel a print if necessary, but my PC needs to be on. I was hoping that by using OctoPrint, I could manage all of this.
  9. Hi, is there any way to connect OctoPrint to an UltiMaker 3? For some reason, it was decided to not include a USB b-type connector on the back - only the female on the front. I bought a male-to-male cable, hoping that could work, but no joy. I'm no coder, so there's now way I'd be savvy enough to run code or other such workaround - I'm looking for a plug-&-play solution. I've the Pi all set up with OctoPrint and I can see the webcam monitor from the network. I haven't gotten to the point of getting the DNS sync'd my IP address, as I was attempting to get the printer connected first. Thanks a mill.
  10. Thanks Ghostkeeper. I actually solved it myself a few days ago - sorry, I should have updated my own entry! At least this was my problem...and solution. I had to reconnect the printer when I upgraded the software and in so doing, I had two printers assigned across the wi-fi. One of them wasn't approved on the printer's display, so this was causing a conflict. When I went to the IP address on my browser, I saw the 2nd instance of the printer at the bottom of the screen and deleted it. My camera became visible straight away.
  11. Hi, I've another issue. The camera works, but I can only see the live stream on the iPhone app (when on the home wifi network). The monitor tab in Cura 3.3.1 shows the print progress, but just greys over when I click in the camera icon. I've the latest firmware on the UM3 too. Any ideas? It was working before on the 3.2.1 release, so it's probably a glitch in this release - has anyone else this problem? It's a pain, as I was monitoring the print while I was at work and it was printing at home. I did this through remotely accessing my home network and running Cura. Now I'm printing blind.
  12. Brilliant - that's comforting thanks Brulti.
  13. Thanks for the clarification So if I DO put in the reels, perhaps @ 60 degrees for 2 hours??? I don't know what the reel material is - but I'd be more concern over the RFID thingie on the card.
  14. Thanks DXP, for 3 minutes, that's not long at all. I could do that as part of my pre-print check-list on my batches. Should I pop in the reel of ABS too while I'm at it?
  15. Thanks Matt, From the image you can see my ABS supports with a 0.3 mm z-offset. They peel away very nicely, most of the time. The TPU brim gives great support to the ABS and once it's still warm on the bed, I can very cleanly remove it off the bed. My under-surface is an issue sometimes, but I now think this will be resolved by the drying out beforehand. Do you have any suggestions on improving the balling on the top surface? It's not a big deal, but it would be great to keep the post-processing to a min. I read on another forum post to turn off the fans, so I might try that tonight. I have a cover on top and a hinged door and this is certainly helping with the ambient temperature, but spools are not encased. https://www.makershop.fr/accessoires-fdm/1562-capot-ultimaker-3.html I'm thinking of making up a secondary polycarbonate cover and have some desiccant sachets in there - away from the spool feeds of course. I assume that you're talking about bracing on the outside of the Bowden tubes? That's a good idea - acting like a strain relief!
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