ShinerG

Thanks a million Carla & Dim3nsioneer

Hello, I'm trying to print with Polymaker's PETG and use UM PVA with the BB 0.4 printcore for the support. I'm using Cura 5.0.0 and the default profiles for both. I have dried my unopened pack of PVA for 10 hours in my dehumidifier at 45°C. The model is an anamorphic text of two names on a flat base, morphing from one name into the other at 90°. The support isn't touching the glass, but only where needed under the letters. The PVA isn't adhering to the PETG and builds up around the nozzle, before I cancel the print. I have printed the sample dimensional accuracy model tower in only PVA and it prints great by itself. My problem is the interface between both materials. Does anyone have any ideas to make this work for me? The two materials are supposed to be compatible. I have tried the Breakaway material as well, but it's not much easier to remove than the PETG generated support from the one printcore. I'd love to print more of these nameplates, but the clean up is just far too much hassle.

Hi folks, My UM3 Ex isn't booting up at all. When I turn it on, the fans power up for a second or two and then nothing. The PWR LED is still lit up on the PCB, but the front LCD never even lights up. It's not the power supply, as I've used my working UM3's in another plug socket and that doens't make a difference. I've tried to use the recovery image, explained so well above, but unfortunately, that hasn't done anything for me at all. I wouldn't be electronically-minded and I was hoping that the image file would work. I've attached photos of the boards, there doesn't seem to be any cables disconnected, but can any of you see any issues, like another LED needing to be lit with power going to both boards. I got this machine through work and the service contract and warrenty have run out. Any help would be much appreciated. Kind regards, Shane

Hi Carla, thanks for that. Sorry, I'm only seeing this there now. I posted this queastion on the FB Ultimkaer Owners group at the same time. Erin Oliver got back to me, to say to turn off any plugin-ins. I had a post-process gcode script plugin active to display the line height on the LCD. Once I turned this off, it printed just as before. 🙂

Hi folks, I've a strange one. My UM3 has recently started to pause a print, usually on the first layer and more often right after the initial blob in hte front corner. It doesn't always happen, but it's very frustrating. I'm using the latest release of Cura. It never happened on previous Cura releases. Have any of ye come across this? It's not a model geometry issue, as I've printed this previously. The models are my own designs, no glitches in the STLs, like needing to patch the mesh and my firmware is up-to-date. I've tried a few other things, but no joy. I've orders coming in for this design of mine that I can't fullfil due to this error. 1. Changed damaged clear plastic part on printcore. 2. Swapped in another printcore. 3. Tried to build another part with unchanged profile, using printcore 2. 4. Printed using version 4.6.1 of Cura. 5. Deactivated all non-Ultimaker plugins. 6. Deactivated all plugins. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Hi, I received the notification that a new version of Cura was ready to download and I was delighted to see that you have a new feature called Intent Profiles. When I installed the update, I was really disappointed that you are not continuing to support UM3 in the software roll-outs. Can you not open up the profiles to be applicable on the UM3 too? I can't afford and have no plans to move up to an S5 model for what I am doing with it at home. Shane

Hi Arturas, Do the springs on the filament feeders tighten enough for grab the 1.75mm filament?

Thanks again Gr5, I came across this great set-by-step tutorial. It's well written, but I'll have to re-read it a few times before I dig into it. I've become spoilt in the age of YouTube - my skills at extracting the info off the page aren't what they were :) https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/207813353-Replacing-Parts-on-the-X-Y-Axis

Hi again Gr5, There are no cracks, at least visible to the naked eye. I'd to abort this print too, as the rear end of the y-axis bar popped out again. I was trying to work out what I changed lately to make it fail - I oiled the printhead's rods - their entire lengths last week. So I think it's as simple as that (un)fortunately! I've wiped them down and added a single circumferential-length of Scotch 3M Magic Tape at the point where the rear rod will be gripped by the slider block. The slippery rods combined with the loose slider could have only one ending. I hope that this print will work and get me through my customer orders while I wait for the new slider blocks to arrive.

Hi Gr5, Sorry, I didn't but I'd tagged the UM3. I've the black ones, so it might be just bad luck. I've gone around the whole unit tightening everything and have another print on at the moment and it looks good - so far. I was in touch with my re-seller and the slider block plastic parts are only a euro plus VAT and delivery, so I'm going to order 4 with the belts. I'd prefer to be looking at them instead of for them, when they do need to be replaced. It's a pain, but I feel relieved to know that they are consumables and do wear out. I was more concerned that it shouldn't be happening or a known problem.

Hi, I'm hoping someone will be able to help me. I've had 4 failed prints in as many days now. I've tightened up the pulleys and the short belts onto the stepper motors. I had luckily printed two alignment clips to ensure that the axis rods were aligned. But the problem is continuing, the slider blocks are not holding the x-axis rod. The rear one pops out mostly, but they're both not adequately holding the rod. It's not loose - just that they can release the rod if it knocked against a building print for example, but the prints are fine - until they stop. There's no evidence of the print head knocking against anything. In Cura I've changed the infill to be 0% and the line number to be 10, to minimise the x-y movements and to fill the interior with just perimeter offsets. This helps to reduce the jerky movements - but it is not solving the problem. I don't want to tape, or otherwise hold the rod in place as I'm concerned that this is the safety mechanism to ensure that the motors are not damaged if the axes are not aligned and forced to print skewed. Can these slider blocks' clasping feature wear out and loosen over time - is this a thing? I've tried to buy the slider blocks and belts from my re-seller, but they're not available in their online shop. TIA.

Hi, What's the pitch of the lead screw in the UM3 - is it 8mm? Here's a great video from Filament Friday on the application of the Magic Number for determining the layer height in the Slicer settings. He has loads of other great tutorials too.

What's the pitch of the lead screw in the UM3 - is it 8mm? Here's a great video from Filament Friday on the application of the Magic Number for determining the layer height in the Slicer settings. He has loads of other great tutorials too.

Hi again Ahoeben, great - I'll try that. Thanks for your help!

Hi Ahoeben, thanks for getting back onto me on NY's Day! I have an UM3 at home and I want to be able to monitor and cancel prints if needed from work or just away from the house. I didn't intend to slice via the OctoPrint, but I was looking forward to being able to run timelapses of the prints. I can access the interface of Cura Connect while on the home network, but how do I do this when offsite? The UM camera viewpoint isn't ideal for determining if a print is succeeding in reality, so I have a babycam sitting on to of my perspex housing for a plan view that I can log into on an app, but it is only to view. I am currently logging into TeamViewer on my home PC to, from an app, then open Cura to cancel a print if necessary, but my PC needs to be on. I was hoping that by using OctoPrint, I could manage all of this.