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Jakeddesign

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
    US
  • 3D printer
    Prosthetics

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  1. Jakeddesign

    Ultimaker 3 Print cores jammed with Filament

    Sometimes I do that. But I really dont have much issues getting oils etc on the build plate. Occasionally if I get some stuck on PVA particles I might take it to the sink to wash with soap.
  2. Jakeddesign

    Ultimaker 3 Print cores jammed with Filament

    Absolutely. I have a squeeze bottle of water stored next to the printer. a little bit of water on a paper towel after every-other print and it is clean and ready to go to. New application of gluestick and I can hit print. 🙂
  3. Jakeddesign

    Ultimaker 3 Print cores jammed with Filament

    I always use glue stick, even for PLA. prints pop off just fine once cooled, and it just doesnt seem worth the trouble to risk an unstuck print. I have around 2k hours on my Ultimaker 3 and have not had this happen.
  4. Jakeddesign

    NylonX

    Absolutely, I would consider this not be a good test - only some indicator. The carabiner was something i found on Thingiverse. Tensile testers use dogbone samples, and pull at a very specific rate in a straight line - I definitely do not expect this to hit perfect theoretical numbers, but it was weaker than I had mentally planned. The surface finish is strange, I cant tell if it is the carbon fiber or if there are some bubbles in the material (indicating water content). We have a device than can behave like a tensile tester, as soon as I find the fixtures for it, I will test some samples for fun.
  5. Jakeddesign

    NylonX

    I thought I would share some of my testing with MatterHackers NylonX. Its an interesting material, very rigid, nice texture, and supposedly stronger than most other materials. It has a 100mpa ultimate tensile strength according to the data sheet, which makes it similar to Nylforce Carbon Fiber. (http://gr5.org/mat/) this is my test piece: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819242 Settings: 0.50mm SS Nozzle (3D Solex Hardcore) 0.45 line width 0.2mm layers 2 walls (Copied an old profile and forgot to change this to 4+) 20% fill 260* C print temp 60* build plate (glass will elmers glue) 40mm/s print speed The parts were printed quite a bit oversized, so I couldnt fit the latch into the main body. I was able to snap the body in two with my bare hands, but this was only printed with 2 walls, so, I cant really expect much from it. The surface quality was somewhere between interesting and not so great, so I am unsure if it always prints this way or the material is slightly wet. I will toss in the dryer overnight before the next test. Overall, it printed easy, had hardly any warping, incredibly stiff (like PLA) but definitely stronger than PLA. Let me know if you have questions, I will post my results when I print round #2. edit: I measured the cross section of the break ( outside HxW - inside HxW) and multiplied this number by the rated tensile strength (14,500 psi/100mpa) and came up with a theoretical ultimate strength of 1300 pounds. I doubt I even applied more than 50 lb of force to it before breaking. Obviously, there are many factors that could contribute to this, but I suspect my print settings are not correct (or material is still too wet) which cause a very week print.
  6. Jakeddesign

    Facepalm moment

    Before I left work on Friday, I started a 50+hr print of a prototype part I am working on. I spent a lot of time updating all my settings since I was using MH Pro filaments and I really wanted this thing to be a good show piece. So Monday morning I roll into work to find this: After writing up a very long post in the HELP section, I started listing all my settings just in case someone noticed something out of place. But no worries, I found the problem: For some odd reason, I unchecked the retraction button. A facepalm moment if ever there was one... (the PVA is a bit old, hence the underextrusion you see towards the end of the print)
  7. Jakeddesign

    Polypropylene Issues

    I think it will never rival PLA in aesthetic "quality", but it is very strong, and doesnt like to delaminate. Very flexible depending on how thick you print the walls. I use it for glue templates in production. When they get gummed up, we just toss them in acetone overnight to dissolve the glue and they are like brand new the next day, ready to go.
  8. Jakeddesign

    Polypropylene Issues

    I forgot to mention that I did turn OFF retraction. I had a suspicion that it was getting stuck in the nozzle. My model was also much less complex than yours, although maybe similar in size. good luck!
  9. Jakeddesign

    Polypropylene Issues

    I did a few things, not sure which it was that worked. a.) I put the filament in my dryer overnight b.) I was using a 3D Solex HardCore nozzle, but switched back to the UM3 AA Core. c.) I went back to using UM3/Cura default profiles magically, it started working again. I suspect that the material was just wet, maybe the 3DSolex core was also contributing. The 3D solex seems to have a tighter throat where the filament goes through, which seems to cause some issues with material swelling sometimes.
  10. Jakeddesign

    Getting Better Dimensional Accuracy - Calibration

    That sounds good! What is it used for mostly, if you don't mind me asking? I work for a prosthetics company, we focus mostly on lower limb, but are getting into upper limb prosthetics as well. Any plastic components were order through Statasys, which is a great service, but quite expensive and long leadtime (unless you pay even MORE money). We have one product that I have printed 4-5 versions using the UM3 - something we would not have done if we were ordering prints from a vendor. Saved a lot of money on mold change costs too, since even printing such complex parts on an FDM printer we were able to identify some pretty serious overlooks. The printer runs for at least 40 hours a week, and if I time prints just right, I can hit 100 hours.
  11. Jakeddesign

    Getting Better Dimensional Accuracy - Calibration

    Sorry I have not responded back with any updates, too busy printing to get back to calibrating. When I started at this company they told me they didnt have a use for a printer...then I convinced them to buy and 6 months later this thing NEVER stops printing. Its crazy....my full time Engineer gig is now more than 50% printer technician! Anyway, @yellowshark's tests did reflect my results pretty well. I have just been sticking with the horizontal offset setting, which works well MOST of the time. The rest of the time I try to fix the model manually before printing it, or sand/machine it down later. (We had one fixture with a fairly complex surface, so I printed it out without the Horizontal offset setting, and then they ran it through a CNC to clean up the surfaces and hole sizes). This results sound pretty good to me. Maybe keep an eye on the X vs Y dimensions, you might have a loose belt. The "Horizontal Expansion" setting is probably what you want to play with. @ghostkeeper mentioned that the rule of thumb is 7/8 nozzle diameter= linewidth, this creates overlap, thus a stronger part. It would stand to reason, then, that if you set the line width to 100% nozzle diameter, then although the part would be weaker, maybe it would be more dimensionally accurate? (on outside corners/surfaces at least) Since the "overlap" portion of the line would not be shifting the 1/16 nozzle diameter outwards?
  12. Jakeddesign

    Printer and material profiles lost 3.2.1

    I did not export any profiles, I simply anticipated the new version pulling in the old profiles (as it had before). Manually copying over my main Config profile and all of the filament profiles did what I needed it to do - So i think I am good to go for now. The print profiles still dont work, but I can live with that. But in the spirit of trying to figure this out for someone who maybe lost more stuff, I have attached a link to my 3.2.1 folder, 3.3 folder (which I have copied files into), and the original 3.3 folder BEFORE i started manually messing with things. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1w8qEv_z8oOwrVloSOpTa0HdpdL9u1nc1 Thanks everyone for the help
  13. Jakeddesign

    Printer and material profiles lost 3.2.1

    Here is a link to the zip. I found them in a folder called "Quality" as I did not have a "Profiles" folder. They are also not *.curaprofile, so maybe that is the issue? https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lTUXRu9eKol5X8mV4aqOhj91CAvJ1Q3w Here is the folder I am digging in:
  14. Jakeddesign

    Printer and material profiles lost 3.2.1

    I found the settings, and started copying them over. Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, now Cura wont let me select a profile? It grays them all out
  15. Jakeddesign

    Ultimaker Cura 3.3 | Stable

    I had the same issue!! Not good....
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