Jakeddesign

This is why we need a print farm!

Just the back of my head, and I pointed to something. I was really only the "printer guy" for this project. I have different products to engineer... 😉

The Ultimaker 3 made a cameo in our latest video of the prosthetic elbow that we are working on: I think I posted on this before, but I used the UM3 to print housings/shells for this elbow. Probably upwards of 20 or so....

Very interesting that this feature was not requested more often? It seems like it would be not only useful for maintenance, but also for companies (such as mine) to somehow justify the cost of buying and running the machine.

@SandervG Thank you for the link. I am almost positive that in my case, it was a power failure. I talked with someone who was in the shop over the weekend and it sounds like we lost power for a short period of time.

I was talking to the shop guys, apparently, we did have a power outage for an hour or so. My guess is that the power came back on, and the UM knew it failed a print. Strange you also had the same issue....maybe you had a power flicker?

same, 3.5.0 I sent it over WiFi, it looks like you used USB? My initial thought was a power outage, but I dont think so. Maybe a power surge? We have had minor surges in the past that have knocked out our CNC mills for a second. @SandervG do you have a list of possible failures that could cause this message to appear?

I started a 36 hour print on Friday, and came back this morning to find the printer stopped, maybe 25% through the print, with the nozzle still touching the last layer that it was printing. There was an error on the screen that said something along the lines of "Print Failed, please carefully remove parts from the build plate." I should have snapped pictures, but forgot. So I was wondering, has anyone else seen this error? What are the typical reasons for the UM to throw this fault? Ultimaker 3, 2300 hours or so. (Note: I realize without pictures and a log file, I wont find out exactly what caused the error, so I am more curious then, what are some possible explanations so I can keep an eye out for them in the future)

Same here, carbon and/or glass filled nylons. I dont use it a lot, but we had one particular bracket that really needed to be made from aluminum, but our shop was too busy to make it - and our outsourced partners were 2 week leadtime or so. So I printed in NylonX from matterhackers, which survived until we were able to replace with aluminum. (prior to this I had printed the bracket in PLA, then ABS, both broke within a day of use. the nylon part never broke - but we replaced it anyways to be safe. No point in having an unexpected downtime!) Next use will be brackets for our fancy new ShockDyno machine. None of the devices we intend to test on this machine have "standard" cylinder mounting eylets (if they have eylets at all!) and being that our machine shop is crazy busy, I intend to print with NylonX/NylonG (Matterhackers) to make the necessary brackets. Recap here would be that Nylon by itself is not rigid enough, PLA or even PC is not strong enough. --- edit The knurled feeder looks to be some sort of stainless steel, so I suspect that it will hold up to the volume of abrasive materials that I intend to run though it. When it wears out noticeably, I will take a look at the part and maybe I can machine something new, out of a harder material. -- edit Down the rabbit hole: For those interested, the knurled feeder/screw/wheel is detail 1960, and is made of some 303 stainless steel, weighing in at 230 Brinell (20RC). From the drawings (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/BOM/BOM Ultimaker 3.pdf) it looks like this wheel is in fact pressed (maybe even heat set) into the main gear. Maybe it can be removed very carefully, or maybe buy a new gear, which should be feasible. Not sure of your equipment @P3D and @dxp but with a lathe and CNC mill, I think this should be no problem. ?

Pretty awesome! Ive run a spool of Matterhackers NylonX through my UM3 (using the 3D solex SS nozzle) and it is some strong stuff! I also just ordered some of their new NylonG. Does Ultimaker have any plans to offer a hardened knurled extruder for the UM3?

that does look odd, are you sure the core is fully seated in the carriage? Can you take a picture of the assembled core laying on the table? I would want to verify that you did not accidentally bend the core while installing the new nozzle. @gr5 might also have some input.

It is possible that I am being overly cautious with my cleaning routine - by cleaning the nozzle every few days. (When I do clean the nozzle, I only see specs of burned PVA, but nozzle is mostly clean) But no way can I get 2000 hours without cleaning. @kmanstudios what settings do you use for your Matterhackers PVA? Maybe the default UM PVA temps are too hot.

I suspect my issues are that my printer will run for several days, sit for a day, run some more...and so on. Not running continuously could be the difference. Additionally, I print a lot at .1mm layers, so maybe I am not moving enough support material though the nozzle.

When I run PVA on our UM3, I clean the nozzle every day or two, depending on how many prints I am running. To clean the nozzle I use the clear nozzle cleaning sticks sold by Ultimaker, which work really well. I set the core temperature to 220, push the plastic rod into the nozzle until the filament turns clear (indicated the cleaner material is moving through) then set the core temperature to 140. once it hits 140 (i call this a coldish pull) , I pull the rod out, usually bringing burned PVA with it. After a good cleaning, you should be able to see daylight through the nozzle when looking down. Also, I tend to use Matterhackers PVA for a few reasons: #1 is that UM PVA is always sold out, #2 is that it is less brittle, so when the nozzle inevitably hits a support, it doesnt snap like the UM brand does. Last thing is that if I am done with the PVA for the day, I put it into my air tight super dry box full of desiccant.

Where did you source this from? Ive seen these before, but for a lot more than 4 usd. I was thinking they would be good for a diy laser engraver gantry (or something?)

We printed some laptop stands (wedges). Good news is they just BARELY fit on the buildplate - diagonally. We need (2) per laptop, so I decided to stack them with a bit of PVA in between for a tasty PLA PVA sandwich!

Ha, not sure. I was worried it might be considered an advertisement for College Park.

The company I work for just released the industrial design video of a new prosthetic elbow we have been working on! The video features a quick shot of our UM3 printing (a cylinder...because of course we had bad luck the day of filming...) and various prototypes floating around in the background - all printed on the UM3. Maybe future videos will include more shots of the Ultimaker... ? Mods feel free to move or delete this post if it violates the rules. Its just an exciting project that has definitely benefited from 3D printing, and the Ultimaker specifically. http://www.espire-elbow.com/

Here is my latest NylonX creation. It is a bracket used to remove a steel core from a molded cylinder shape. Kind of difficult to explain, but this particular plastic molded part had a feature that had to have reverse draft, so it has a part of the injection mold stuck inside of it even after the mold opens. After we remove the part, we can push the part out the non-reverse draft way and make another part. Very time consuming, but it had to be done. Anyways, this part will replace an ABS part that only lasted (6) tries. Hopefully this one lasts longer. Otherwise, we have aluminum machined brackets coming in another week or so. Production must go on! 0.5mm SS nozzle 0.2 layer 6 walls 40% fill 260*C at the nozzle 100*C bed no cooling Ultimaker adhesion sheets Emergency super glue application to keep part stuck to bed ? ~20 hours to print.

no, it was a bracket for a special fixtures used to remove a steel core from a molded cylinder. Ill post some pictures in my NylonX thread.

I printed some abstract art this weekend using about 200g of NylonX. Now I just need to build a display case.

Sometimes I do that. But I really dont have much issues getting oils etc on the build plate. Occasionally if I get some stuck on PVA particles I might take it to the sink to wash with soap.

Absolutely. I have a squeeze bottle of water stored next to the printer. a little bit of water on a paper towel after every-other print and it is clean and ready to go to. New application of gluestick and I can hit print. ?

I always use glue stick, even for PLA. prints pop off just fine once cooled, and it just doesnt seem worth the trouble to risk an unstuck print. I have around 2k hours on my Ultimaker 3 and have not had this happen.

Absolutely, I would consider this not be a good test - only some indicator. The carabiner was something i found on Thingiverse. Tensile testers use dogbone samples, and pull at a very specific rate in a straight line - I definitely do not expect this to hit perfect theoretical numbers, but it was weaker than I had mentally planned. The surface finish is strange, I cant tell if it is the carbon fiber or if there are some bubbles in the material (indicating water content). We have a device than can behave like a tensile tester, as soon as I find the fixtures for it, I will test some samples for fun.