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  1. I have used (Ultimaker) ABS and TPU successfully.
  2. I have successfully printed toothed belts of TPU with 'buckets' of ABS attached at intervals - see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3472635. The stl files are "Belt_for_buckets_21.stl" and "Buckets_21.stl". The buckets are mechanically locked to the belt, but much of the belt width is a continuous circle. The buckets seem to weld to the belt well. I have found that very thin sections of TPU are not a good idea - you could try making the TPU nodes of your mesh larger. Try putting small holes/slots near the ends of the links, and have these embedded in the TPU modes.
  3. It depends on how you are intending to design the moisture-proof joint. There are two types: O-ring - where a lightly-constrained seal is intended to move and deform to wedge itself into a small gap which it cannot get through. Increasing fluid pressure forces the seal into a tighter seal. There are two types of O-ring seal, face and barrel. Can take some movement of the items to be sealed. The seal material is relatively soft. Gasket - where a seal is tightly constrained and pre-loaded/ compressed, and the seal is not intended to deform or move. Eg cylinder head gasket
  4. "ToughPLA is wonderful, you can print it as normal PLA but it is stronger, even maybe stronger and stiffer than ABS. " Hence my question, why would you use ordinary PLA rather than use Tough PLA? The two materials are the same price. Apart from being available in more colours, what advantages does ordinary PLA have over Tough PLA? Perhaps you could expand on "additional strangeness".
  5. I what circumstances would one use 'ordinary' PLA rather than Tough PLA, other than the larger range of colours available with 'ordinary' PLA?
  6. I store the PVA in a clip-lock container when not in use, with a large indicating silica-gel bag in there. When printing, I run a dehumidifier if needed to keep the room RH below 50%. I also like to have two spools of PVA on the go, so I can be printing with one whilst the other is being dried out.
  7. I use a food dryer/dehydrator. The one I have has digital temperature (max 70 degC) and timer (max 8 hours) controls - the timer means you don't have to remember when the PVA will be 'cooked'. It came with stacking trays - I cut out the centre of a couple of trays to give enough height for a filament spool but others have printed riser pieces to get the height.
  8. Cura 3.3.1 is displaying expected filament usage incorrectly for some models, but not for others. In erroneous displays it is showing extruder 1 and 2 filaments the wrong way round, ie extruder 2 then extruder 1. See the screen grab - the model prints in orange PLA using 1.47m of orange PLA and 0.24m of PVA support from extruder 2. I have attached the stl file, which is generated from Fusion 360. The actual print is fine. Some stl files show this oddity, but others have the extruder filament usage the expected way round, ie extruder 1 then extruder 2. Closed screw
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