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Octo

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  1. And another post, the screw (I dont remember its name) is damaged as I said before, that can explain the leak, I have to clean it up properly, but I think i'll not stop the leak if that's the problem... When it was assembled the screw was a bit not straight. I know you don't like the fact I'm blaming him, but from what my boss said he was proud about the fact he finished much more before than the other team on the original. And now look the only thing I didnt is the case itself, that's not a problem, I'm learning but when it's about ego and dont care that much about if the machine is built well, that makes me a bit upset, that's not his machine...
  2. The feeder spring is 1cm long, so that's ok from what you said before
  3. I don't know, I'm trying to apply your advice and what the manual or what I see on internet says I can't say right know, this morning I cleaned pieces, the screw for peek and heater block is a bit damaged apparently (I didn't work there this afternoon), peek was fine as its "screw" part, nothing special from the interior. they are using simplify more than cura, I did create a custom profile (from the original 1) because the + version isn't recognized in simplify. In fact I just created a function to get the plate working. I don't know, I'll let you know tomorrow I'll try tomorrow I screwed pulleys a lot, do I have to unscrewed, to equilibrate again and screw it again ? Or that's not necessary, because for me, belts are looking tighten as they on the original 2+ or what I see everywhere, but I could be wrong, and if I put a tensioner that's too tightened, and I suppose that's not good too. Because I've disassembled the printer head, maybe I'll fix the leak. For the underextrusion I'll let you know, I'll look at the feeder and the spring, and I'll test with your 5kg test for the play, I'm sorry, but I'm not sure about what you mean by : Do I have to see the nozzle move or the whole block of the printer head ? Tomorrow it's my last day in the fablab, but I can work with them without being a trainee, and I really do want to fix that machine, and learn about 3D printer, and you're also helping/teaching me a lot ! Btw they have the original to fix too, my boss changed the material, and nothing is coming from the head while printing, when he changed the material the print head was smoking, maybe he will let work on it, I hope he broke nothing, I think there's a clog, the smoke was smelling burnt plastic, and they also have two others printers that need fixes, I think two dual extruders from flashforge, well we don't care about them for now
  4. Here's a picture of boat, left side cura, right side simplify, the version the fab kept isn't the last one btw 3.0.x. Even if I had to stop the impression with simplify it looks like it would be in good shape not like curz version And here's a picture of the block head, I think that wasnt screwed correctly if that's not enough, is that possible to use teflon here ? Dont look at the heater block, I unscrewed it, I think the leak is coming from the connexion between the screw and the grey plastic part
  5. The Z face is at the top of the piece I'll try to tighten them more maybe that was due to the Z switch which was broken and moving a bit, isnt it ? And maybe it depends of the software, cura wasn't perfect for printing the boat hull (one or two layers were shifted, but all the rest were fine and aligned) whereas simplify where it was perfect
  6. well I did today a lot of things again to be sure : - fixed X Y Z - fixed Z switch (I saw it was broken, it was impossible to tighten the screw properly, and the switch moved during the torture test, so I did Z another time, I added a nut, and now I think that's ok) - fixed Y motor, it was a bit hard to move it with my hand - aligned pulleys again - tightened all belts (and no need of external piece) another issue that was reported by the person who assembled the printer, the head is leaking PLA, so tomorrow I'm gonna disassemble the head. (a picture of the zone where PLA leaks) here's screenshot of the last printed cube (right side). I didn't take a picture of the torture test boat, but from cura it was inaccurate, some layers weren't aligned, but with simplify that's fine.
  7. Thanks, so I had the opportunity to work on both printers (the other one, that was just a Z problem, now it's ok), so what I did today : - re-axle Y X Z (and let a bit more space between nozzle and plate, I putted not that much space when I did calibrate before, not enough to get the paper "surf" on the plate) - disassembled/assembled the "extruder" wheel (it seems to don't get unscrewed by itself now) - tighten both motor's belt - started to print the cube at 30mm/s speed, but I stopped it, I still get curved shape. - tried to tighten all belt, but I don't get greater results than before. the fan is working, I'm gonna print tomorrow the belt tensioner from your file here the setting of cura : - layer height 0.15 - wall thickness 1 - top/bottom thickness 0.8 - infill density 10% - gradual infill steps 0 - print temp 200 - build plate temp 60 - flow 100% - print speed 60mm/s (tried 30) - travel speed 120mm/s - brim width 8mm thanks everyone for helping me !
  8. Hi, I'm currently new in the 3D printer, and I'm working as a trainee for a FabLab in France, they asked me to repair a 3D printer which was assembled by someone else (also he's known to do some mistakes on that machine...), that's my first time on that kind of machine so after hours of work, I'm a bit lost, and my boss didn't assemble any of their 3D printers (they have, from ultimaker, a fully functional 2+ extended, and an original which needs to be calibrated (I'll work on it after). So I see two problem, to see where the guy who has assembled the printer stopped, I printed an YXZ cube, but the result is really bad, sides are curved and letters aren't looking great, printed with PLA. So I'm gonna tell what I did to try to improve the situation : - calibrate X and Y with sticks (no problem) - fixed a problem of PLA leak near the nozzle - calibrate the plate, but I have a question, with the piece of paper between plate and nozzle, how much does it needed to be gripped by the nozzle ? That's hard to explain how I did to calibrate, but the paper is gripped by the nozzle but not that much, I can move the paper without any fold. - Y X Z switches weren't calibrated properly, now they click where it needed - screw properly motors, and look at belts to see if they are tighten, for the comparison, I look how tighten belts from the 2+ extended, and they are looking both the same I have another BIG problem, and it's there I really don't know how to do :/ when I try to calibrate the plate on Cura, at the third position the printer head is not on the plate as you can see in the picture, so I think that can be the problem and I can't calibrate properly the machine and the last part was today, just before I leave the fabalb, I started a print and I had to stop it, because the big bolt of the extrude wheel just fell off the wheel, so I tried to screw it again but if you're rolling the wheel, it gets unscrewed again... and I leaved after so I didn't disassemble the wheel to see what's going on. I don't know if I'm stupid or if that's hard to enter in the 3D printer world in that way ^^ Well, I'm not gonna work on that machine till next tuesday, so is anyone have a solution for me, I can't use it right now. Thanks in advance for your help
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