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Abrasive

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  • Field of Work
    Engineering
  • Country
    US
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3

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  1. For regular polypropylene, packing tape made from polypropylene works great
  2. I came home the other day and my print had failed and the Y axis rail was laying on the table outside my printer. It had rust spots on it so I cleaned it off and began examining things. The rust was from what seems to be a linear rail bearing. I cleaned it out as much as I could and applied some more oil and was able to get a successful 8 hour print accomplished. However the next print ended up popping the rail off and failing. I Googled around a little to see where to buy the replacement bearing but it seems not obvious to find. This seems like an easy fix if I can get the correct replacement part, but where? EDIT - This appears to be what I need https://fbrc8.com/products/short-linear-bearing-lmk6-um3-um3x?variant=8145756192856
  3. I use Verbatim brand and they were all purchased new by me. Polypropylene doesn't absorb water so I don't believe that humidity is a factor. I also print Ninjatek Cheetah, Polymaker PC MAX and various PLA all which work great and I have no observed any change with them. Something changed that causes my polypropylene to print differently. I did update my firmware and upgrade from Cura 3.x to Cura 4.x around the time I started noticing the poorer print quality but unsure if that is related.
  4. My polypropylene prints started under extruding at some point in the last two months or so but I am not sure why. Could the firmware update cause this? I went from consistently good results to consistently under extruded.
  5. Polycarbonate seems to warp near the corners on long prints. A brim can mitigate some of that. Possibly an adhesive/tape of some sort may help but I have never deemed it worthwhile to experiment with that yet. Polypropylene I would suggest always printing with a brim. The only warping I have noticed is when there is a hole near a corner. To mitigate that I actually closed the hole in the 3D model with .4mm or so of material and cut it out after. If you have trouble getting it to stick clear packing tape has worked great for me. The downside is you get the profile of the air bubbles under the tape on the bottom of the print, so you will have to decide if that is acceptable.
  6. It would require a new sensor and firmware updates cannot add a new physical sensor, they can only read from an existing sensor if it exists.
  7. I use polycarbonate (white or black, NOT transparent) or polypropylene for functional prototypes. PLA is way too brittle and cracks/shatters easily. I prefer polypropylene as it is the hardest to break and can handle a ton of fatigue. Polypropylene's layer adhesion is stupidly good, far better than any other filament I have tried. Polymaker PolyMax/PC Max is identical to the Ultimaker Polycarbonate if you want to save some money. Also Verbatim polypropylene seems identical to Ultimaker polypropylene.
  8. I think maybe nobody responded because your description of the problem is quite vague. You could provide additional info such as add pictures, describe the problem in more detail, mention what may have changed between when it was working and when it was no longer working, etc. Verbatim polypropylene is less expensive and prints identically to the Ultimaker brand, I am actually curious if they are just rebranding it. Matterhackers has PP spools for $50. They also have Natural SmartMaterials SmartFil PP which I have tried and it is much different. It is more brittle, a different texture, and does not stick to the glass bed. I would not recommend that brand.
  9. I have this happen too. It's weird that when I have to click refresh multiple times and it finally does show the printer, the connect button doesn't seem to do actually anything, almost like it is already connected at that point. The issue is sporadic, sometimes it will go days without having this problem. This problem appeared after the 5.2.8 upgrade, which required some kind of stepping stone firmware upgrade to finally get to 5.2.8 at the time. The same time as the drifting UI began happening for me.
  10. Will the logs still contain relevant data if I restarted after the problem happened but before I dumped the logs?
  11. I also used the stepping stone firmware to get to 5.2. Mine has the bugged screen which seems to drift along the X and wrap around like the above picture. My printing still works, however every once in a while during a print it will pause for a few seconds and keep extruding in one spot making a bump, like there is some contention for resources and it just derps out.
  12. I just did this test and my hydrophylic side was on the opposite side of the sticker. It was definitely obvious as one side the water stayed contained and the other side it kept spreading slowly. So I guess I have been using the wrong side of the glass but it has been working well for me with no extra adhesives? Or is the information in the original post reversed?
  13. Couldn't you just buy a cheapo router and set it to a static IP address on the current network and then plug only the Ultimaker into that router and set a static lease for the MAC address to the correct IP address? That way it received the IP from DHCP and is guaranteed to be the same IP address every time.
  14. Doesn't look like PC is compatible with the breakaway support based on their compatibility matrix: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility In my personal experience PC printed very well using PC as the support material.
  15. What were you using the CC core for in this example? I didn't see any materials mentioned so I'm not sure what was accomplished.
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