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Abrasive

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Abrasive last won the day on February 1 2020

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3
  • Country
    US
  • Industry
    Engineering

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  1. I had a similar issue with the Ultimaker 3. The linear bearing on one axis would wear out and eventually grab the rail and pull it out. I replaced the bearing and eventually it happened again. The culprit was the belt was too loose on that axis motor. I tightened it and added some loctite so the bolts did not vibrate out. Now the linear bearing doesn't wear out prematurely.
  2. Interesting, I've only done a little mold making myself. Polypropylene is also good for molds as you don't need a release agent. I'm not sure if it would be up to the heat for your task but it would be close. The CNC Kitchen did a video on polypropylene where he boiled water in it in the microwave I believe. Worth a watch if you have some time.
  3. What do you actually use it for? Polypropylene filament will have a much higher impact strength than polycarbonate. It can handle heat decently as well. It is more flexible but that can be offset by thickness/geometry depending on your application. Alternatively you can purchase Polymaker PolyMax and save the Ultimaker rebranding cost. I don't really think ABS has much of a place anymore as far as being the best material for an application as there are so many options now.
  4. Well I didn't do that, but more than 24 hours later it is still nice and snappy. So appears to possibly be related to being connected to the printer somehow. Does auto discovery try to do anything when you have no printers connected? When does auto discovery try to do things?
  5. I'll disconnect Cura from the printer, close it, open a new Cura and leave it open for a day or two to see if the same symptoms occur
  6. I don't really use it at all as the printer is close by. I do use the printer connectivity. Have used that all along to save myself from having to use sneakernet to transfer files to the printer. What conditions might those be?
  7. No plugins installed and I am using Windows 10 with the May 2019 update installed.
  8. I've noticed that when I changed versions of Cura from 4.2 to 4.3 that a new problem showed up. For context I generally leave Cura open all the time and up until now this has not been an issue. I am prototyping robot parts a lot of the time and when I get the print settings correct I will just keep Cura oepn to reduce the shance for error when swapping out the new prototype of a model to print. Lately if I leave Cura open for 24 hours it is using increased memory and CPU and is generally sluggish to use. If I leave it open 48 hours it is downright annoying to use it is so slow. Any longer and I end up closing it so clicking on things does not take forever. I didn't screenshot any of the resource usage in my task manager but I can if needed. I did look at task manager a few times and Cura was definitely getting out of control with CPU and memory usage. Basically repro steps are: 1. Open a model in Cura. 2. Send it to the printer to print. 3. Leave Cura open for a long time . I'm not actually sure steps one and two are required to reproduce, I just am always using Cura so that's the information I have to go on.
  9. For regular polypropylene, packing tape made from polypropylene works great
  10. I came home the other day and my print had failed and the Y axis rail was laying on the table outside my printer. It had rust spots on it so I cleaned it off and began examining things. The rust was from what seems to be a linear rail bearing. I cleaned it out as much as I could and applied some more oil and was able to get a successful 8 hour print accomplished. However the next print ended up popping the rail off and failing. I Googled around a little to see where to buy the replacement bearing but it seems not obvious to find. This seems like an easy fix if I can get the correct replacement part, but where? EDIT - This appears to be what I need https://fbrc8.com/products/short-linear-bearing-lmk6-um3-um3x?variant=8145756192856
  11. I use Verbatim brand and they were all purchased new by me. Polypropylene doesn't absorb water so I don't believe that humidity is a factor. I also print Ninjatek Cheetah, Polymaker PC MAX and various PLA all which work great and I have no observed any change with them. Something changed that causes my polypropylene to print differently. I did update my firmware and upgrade from Cura 3.x to Cura 4.x around the time I started noticing the poorer print quality but unsure if that is related.
  12. My polypropylene prints started under extruding at some point in the last two months or so but I am not sure why. Could the firmware update cause this? I went from consistently good results to consistently under extruded.
  13. Polycarbonate seems to warp near the corners on long prints. A brim can mitigate some of that. Possibly an adhesive/tape of some sort may help but I have never deemed it worthwhile to experiment with that yet. Polypropylene I would suggest always printing with a brim. The only warping I have noticed is when there is a hole near a corner. To mitigate that I actually closed the hole in the 3D model with .4mm or so of material and cut it out after. If you have trouble getting it to stick clear packing tape has worked great for me. The downside is you get the profile of the air bubbles under the tape on the bottom of the print, so you will have to decide if that is acceptable.
  14. It would require a new sensor and firmware updates cannot add a new physical sensor, they can only read from an existing sensor if it exists.
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