Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Coalwater

  1. I found this in Shenzhen a few weeks ago: Smart buy? What do you think? ?
  2. Thank you! I was wondering about that. I was told some people think we need it anyways but I can't think of a reason why! And also Blazing Saddles is funny
  3. Yes, of course! I wasn't being too serious about that, I love my 3. But mow I will want the new one too!! Thanks!
  4. Will it print tiny parts better? Will you take a trade-in for a barely used 3 Extended?
  5. Good job Travis7i! I also had some success: It's not perfect, and it's useless because the layers aren't in the right orientation but I got a complete nylon print! I used the 0.25mm nozzle, set the build plate temperature to 100C, printed a dummy cylinder around the part to wipe the nozzle and cancelled z-hop to avoid stringing. Thanks for all of your inputs.
  6. I'm using Ultimaker nylon. The default speed is 70mm/s. I've tried 35mm/s. No difference. I'm still trying to dial in that ooze shield, that's the closest I've been to success...
  7. I tried. The print head moved away from the part and the nylon strings between the nozzle and the part. It makes quite a mess... I also tried reducing the print speed a lot. It didn't help.
  8. All good points, thanks! If I can solve the oozing problem, I think I'll get what I need. The best success I've had so far is with an ooze shield but since it's only available in dual extrusion I had to print 2 parts, like you suggested, but the only material I have on hand is PLA and it don't mix with nylon so the ooze shield eventually collapses. I've been using 3D lac instead oF the glue stick and nylon sticks well most of the time at 60C. It depends on the shape of the part. I'm trying it at 80C now.
  9. I suck at forums... I don't want to hijack this thread, should I start a new one about nylon printing issues in general?
  10. Yes, I read about that. I've been keeping the reel in a resealable bag with a desiccant pouch in it but I'm building a dry box now... Is the oozing because of moisture also? I was able to get something decent with an ooze shield, but I had to print 2 parts with 2 different materials for it to work.
  11. I'm also having issues with nylon. It gets all smudgy and I can't seem to print a clean part, especially small ones like 2mm diameter pins. I also have the Printed Solid enclosure. At first I thought the enclosure made the ambient air too hot but I'm, not sure yet. To me it looks like I can't get the nylon to cool fast enough between layers. how big is your part? You should be able to do something by playing around with print speed, minimum layer time, etc... Here's how my latest test turned out...
  12. He could mean 3 feeders, one red, one green and one blue, all mixing in the nozzle to make every color possible. But beyond the mess and the technological limits, I think everything would just come out brown...
  13. Hi, I changed the line width to 0.6mm. It feels like a workaround but it did the trick with a 0.4mm nozzle. Hope this helps.
  14. Yeah, that would be a challenge, but I got a few ideas.
  15. Hehehe, good one! I had the word "Revolver" in mind while I was writing this.
  16. Hi, This year my employer finally agreed that we needed a 3D printer and so having never used one, the Ultimaker 3 seemed to me like a good choice. Being in a corporate environment, I didn't have time to fiddle around for a few months before I was able to get a working part out of it. I'm happy to report I was printing my first part about 1 hour after getting it connected to the company network. It has been running every day for about 6 weeks now, mostly making specialized tools and small parts and my failure rate is super low. I did learn a few things about settings though.
  17. I wonder if it would be possible to use a revolving print head to fit multible print cores. It would be more complex but could take up less space than the current side-by-side setup.
  • Create New...