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Everything posted by AirBronto

  1. What printer/hot end do you have? 25mm/sec at 1mm width and 0.8mm height seems really fast to me. You're extruding a ton of material at that speed. Unless you have a really powerful hot end I could see the sheer volume of material dropping the nozzle temperature. When the nozzle changes velocity, the extruded material isn't hot enough and gets pulled/separated from the lower level which gives you your rounded corners. I would set your print speed to something really low, like 5-10mm/sec and try again. If it looks better, your hotend probably just doesn't have enough thermal inertia to withstand the huge volume of material. At that point you can either print slower or print hotter.
  2. I'm not sure if this is @iMattmax's problem or not, but I'm coming from Cura 3.6 and I installed 4.0.0 last night and I thought the Marketplace was missing too. I spent legitimately 10 minutes clicking every menu option I could see, closing and re-opening Cura, and trying everything I could think of to find it. It turns out that in the new UI, there's a new button at the top-right of the screen that says 'Marketplace,' and that's the only way to open the Marketplace menu.
  3. If you only print via SD then you probably don't have a graph of temperature data. Octoprint is super useful for stuff like that but if you don't have a raspberry pi then I guess you're out of luck. 20* drop when the fan comes on is way way way too much. Either your PIDs are incredibly fragile and even a tiny increase in airflow messes them up, or your fan duct is very wrong. Once you get a new duct on there I think your problem will just disappear. Some people recommend doing PID tuning at 50% fan, that way your PIDs are a little more aggressive than needs be with no fan, but they can handle more airflow without getting bogged down.
  4. Can you post a picture of your temperature graph when the thermal runaway happens? I want to see if it looks like your heater is eventually going to get your nozzle to the right temp and your thermal runaway protection is just too aggressive, or if it looks like your fan is just overpowering your heater. Definitely check the airflow and the design of your duct, the air shouldn't be hitting/cooling the nozzle at all, it should only be hitting the freshly extruded material. In reality the turbulence from the duct will cause the nozzle to lose some heat, but it should be minimal. I can crank my fan up to 100% and my nozzle loses about 1 degree. Have you done a PID tune with Marlin yet? That can be another thing that could help, it could be that your firmware just doesn't have a good handle on how much power it takes to heat up your nozzle, and when the fan kicks on it gets knocked out of whack and can't keep up. A temperature graph screenshot would help troubleshoot that as well.
  5. This sounds a bit like an X-Y problem. First off, your cooling fan should be angled in a way that it doesn't cool the nozzle very much. The cool air should hit right below the nozzle (so the brunt of the cooling effect hits the extruded filament). I would check to make sure it's angled properly. Also, if you're running marlin, I think it would make more sense to change your thermal runaway parameters. Really it would be as simple as updating the following settings in Configuration_adv.h: If you're getting this issue after you hit your print temperature but before you change temperature during a print: THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS If you're getting this after you change temperature mid-print: WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE For me, I had to update my protection_period and hysteresis because I am running a larger nozzle so I push more material than my printer was originally designed for. I was regularly getting thermal runaways because the hotend was cooling down faster than my PIDs were expecting, and while they would eventually catch up, by that point it was too late and the thermal protection was triggered. I set my THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD to 80 seconds, and my THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS to 3 degrees. I haven't had any thermal runaway issues since then.
  6. Are you running Cura inside of a VM? I got this error when I was running Cura on a Windows guest in VirtualBox. I found a StackOverflow post that explained how to enable rudimentary OpenGL support, it worked for me, maybe this will help: StackOverflow OpenGL Fix
  7. I just installed Cura 3.4.1 and 3.5.1 on a fresh Windows 10 virtual machine... and you're right! The settings changes in the 3.5.1 version did NOT go back and modify the changes in 3.4.1. I'm not sure what my earlier problem was, but it's not a problem anymore. Thanks! Now I can run 3.5.1 and test it without worrying about losing my 3.4.1 settings.
  8. I'm not sure how feasible this is, but what would help me a lot is to have the ability to run different versions of the Cura applications completely in parallel with each other, sharing no files or profile settings at all. Like a lot of people, I've spent dozens of hours fine-tuning my 3.4.1 profile, dialing in well over 100 options and reconfiguring them for multiple nozzle sizes and materials. I tested the 3.5 beta (the beta versions seem to have their own paths for profiles and printers so I didn't have to worry about my production settings), but I refrained from updating to the 3.5 release because I was nervous about any process that modified/touched my profiles. I've made backups of them, but in previous versions (I believe it was going from 3.3 to 3.4), I had an issue where the upgraded software seemed to have changed my profiles just enough to cause strange issues when I tried to revert. I wish I could remember the details, but essentially updating to the new release version ended up hiding settings in the old version and I couldn't get them back even after uninstalling the new version. It also silently modified my starting GCODE for one of my machines, and reverted a few of my custom settings. Since I've made so many changes to so many settings, one or two misconfigurations could mean hours of work for me. My ideal scenario would be that when I download Cura 3.5 release, it copies everything like profiles, machines, and materials from my 3.4 folder into a 3.5 folder, and then only upgrades the newly copied files only (meaning that my original 3.4 profiles, machines and materials are completely unchanged by the upgrade). That way I could have 3.4 and 3.5 open at the same time for A/B testing, but I wouldn't have to worry about the 3.5 upgrade making small changes to my 3.4 install. I personally prefer the quick-release schedule because I like new features and enjoy tinkering with things. However, I'd like to be able to do it in a way that I can load up the new release, experiment freely with it, change any settings I want, enable new features, and then after I've completely messed everything up I can easily just say 'screw it,' open up my older version and know that everything is 100% unchanged, no reversion or backups or reconfiguration needed.
  9. In case anyone finds this thread, smartavionic's PR was implemented in Cura 3.5 beta on 9/18/2018.
  10. @smartavionics got it, thanks for going over that. I'll probably keep printing with interior walls first for now, but if things get bad I'll switch it back. Once more, thank you so much for adding this feature!
  11. @smartavionics I just tested it out. It's perfect! It's exactly what I wanted, I was able to print a 3-wall thick print without any tiny-flow segments. It sped up the print, saved me material and the quality was exactly what I wanted. I have one question: on the tooltip for Minimum Flow, it says that "...you must print the outer wall before the inner walls." When I read that I was sad because I print inner walls first so the outer walls look nicer. Just to see what would happen, I unchecked "Outer walls before inner walls" and the model sliced exactly how I wanted it to. The model in Cura had the inner wall printed first, the second phantom inner wall was turned into travel moves, and then the two outer walls printed around it. I then sent it to my printer and everything seemed perfect, it printed the single inner wall, then the two outer walls without problems. Is there a reason that the outer walls have to be printed before the inner walls with this setting? Will this cause issues with other prints that I may not be seing in the test prints I did?
  12. Oh man, it looks like this is release with CuraEngine PR 721 (wall_min_flow) in it! I am so excited, this was the last big issue I had with Cura. Thanks again to @smartavionics for creating the feature, and thanks to the Cura team for all your awesome work!
  13. Cura has had an adaptive layer heights feature since I think 3.2.1. It's called Adaptive Layer Height, and you can also set the 'Infill Layer Thickness' to change the thickness of the interior infill line. I don't think you can setup variable line thickness manually within a given layer, but you can enable 'Fill Gaps Between Walls' to sort of do this automatically, but I've never had much luck with this setting so I leave it off.
  14. That is extremely helpful, thank you! I found your PR on GitHub, it looks like it's exactly what I want. Fingers crossed that it gets implemented soon
  15. I am using Cura 3.3.1. I've attached my settings export and the STL that I'm trying to print to this post. The problem I'm noticing starts on layers 3+. I print with a 0.8mm nozzle and a 1mm line width, and for me a wall thickness of 3mm is about perfect. The issue I'm running into is that Cura 3.3.1 doesn't seem to want to let me print a single inner wall. I set my outer walls to 1mm and inner walls to 1mm, and it skips the inner wall entirely: If I set the inner wall to something slightly less than 1mm (0.999mm), then it will generate two inner walls, but it refuses to print it in a single step. This is close to what I want but I don't want it to print the second nearly-invisible inner wall: To see the problem I'm seeing, import the attached STL into Cura, slice it, and starting on layer 3 or 4 hit the 'Play' button to watch the extruder path. I can't figure out how to show this in a picture so I'll just describe it. What happens is that Cura prints the first inner wall at 0.999mm width, but since the wall in the model is actually 1mm, Cura thinks that it's missing 0.001mm. Cura then dutifully traces back over the wall and tries to print at 0.001mm width, leading to an extrusion that is almost entirely invisible. This causes my prints to take much longer than they should because Cura essentially has to trace over each inner wall twice, even though it only extrudes on the first pass. This is a sample of the GCODE that it generates, you can see how the first perimeter extrudes a normal amount of material, but the second perimeter extrudes essentially nothing: ;TYPE:WALL-INNER FIRST PASS ;This is the first pass, notice how the E-rate is ;is multiple millimeters G1 E1574.51586 ;Adjusted e by 0.21169mm G1 F1860 X181.005 Y50.646 E1612.09411 G1 X181.005 Y127.656 E1629.9566 G1 X18.995 Y127.656 E1667.53486 G1 X18.995 Y50.646 E1685.39735 You can see the total amount extruded for the first pass of the inner wall is expected, many millimeters of filament is extruded. However, this is the GCODE from the second extrusion immediately after this one: ;Whereas this is the second extrusion, and over the ;course of the entire perimeter it extrudes less ;than 2mm total G1 F1860 X19.005 Y127.646 E1685.8477 G1 X180.995 Y127.646 E1686.37676 G1 X180.995 Y50.656 E1686.627 G1 X19.005 Y50.656 E1687.15606 Checking and unchecking all the Thin-Wall settings don't appear to have any effect. Changing the outer wall overlap settings don't either. It doesn't seem like Cura will let you print an infill without also printing an inner wall, so I can't seem to trick Cura into printing only the outer wall and then setting the rest as infill. Is there a setting that I'm missing here? I just want to print a single inner wall, but from everything I can see Cura only wants to print out even-numbers of inner walls. I understand that for smaller nozzles you probably wouldn't want to do this, but for larger ones it saves a lot of time and material if I can configure Cura to print this way. Cura_1mm_Test_20180526.curaprofile Accessories_Tray_v3.stl
  16. Good point, whenever someone says steps per mm I'm assuming they mean extruder steps per mm. I guess if their X-Y stepper steps per mm were off then this suggestion wouldn't help, but I have the same printer as @DonaldNaegele and I've never heard of the X-Y steppers being off (mine were perfect out of the box).
  17. Hey, it looks like you're making progress! Calculating extruder steps seems further along than you were a week ago. I've been on Marlin for a while, but I don't believe the original Monoprice firmware even had a section where you could update the e-steps. The guides you've found most likely assume you're running some flavor of Marlin, so the GCODE steps they suggest won't work (you can't send M92 to the stock Monoprice firmware and have anything happen). Instead of calculating the extruder steps it's a lot easier to just modify the flow rate in Cura. Run the extruder test (mark your filament at 120mm, extrude 100mm of filament, see how much is left, etc), and then calculate your flow rate from that (100 / actual amount extruded = flow rate in decimal [multiply by 100 for %]). Or even better, just print a solid calibration cube with 100% infill, measure it, and tweak flow rate up or down until the cube's dimensions are dead on.
  18. If it's not too much of a burden I'd try on Windows 10. I'm completely unfamiliar with the permissions model on Macs so I can't help you there at all unfortunately.
  19. What version of Cura are you using? The stable branches all save the settings automatically, I've never had to save anything manually before, the values are automatically saved for me. There was a beta branch (3.3.0b I think) that had bugs where settings changes weren't being saved, but you would have to try pretty hard to end up with that version. Might as well ask what operating system you're using also. I know Windows 10 can get funky with permissions and won't let programs write values to files. If you're using Windows 10, can you try running Cura as an administrator and see if that helps?
  20. I have that same printer. It's a little work to set it up in Cura the first time but after that it's no problem. The steps to add this printer are here (the Wanhao Duplicator 6 is the same printer as the Monoprice Maker Ultimate): https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/wanhao-duplicator-6/forums/general/topic:17580 I'm not a fan of the Start/Stop GCODE settings that this tutorial used (the initial purge is way too much for my liking) but the settings are perfectly workable so definitely start with them. As you get more familiar with the printer you'll almost certainly want to change them, but by that point you'll know exactly what you want them to be. If you're still stuck or it's not working, you can also download the Wanhao version of Cura that is already configured to work with your printer. It's available here: http://www.wanhao3dprinter.com/Down/ShowArticle.asp?ArticleID=75 It uses a VERY old version of Cura so you'll be missing out on a lot of features, but the nice thing is that it's configured to your printer's specs out of the box.
  21. Can you look at your system resources and confirm that the Cura process isn't doing anything for 6 seconds after you click 'Slice', and that it delays a consistent 6-seconds no matter the size/complexity of the model? When I click on the 'slice' button there is a delay on my PC too (it's much less than 6 seconds but it is perceivable), but I believe what's happening is that Cura is checking for supports and performing sanity checks to see if the model can in fact be sliced at all, and once these checks are passed then the actual slice occurs. My evidence for this is that with a simple cube I experience a delay of well under a second, but if I try to slice a hugely complex model it can take 3-4 seconds before it actually begins slicing.
  22. Yes! It's under the OctoPrint settings dialog. Settings -> Printers -> Manage Printers -> [SELECT YOUR PRINTER] -> Connect to OctoPrint -> Uncheck "Show Webcam Image"
  23. This is already a setting! It's under Preferences -> Cura Settings, then uncheck the 'Auto Slice' box.
  24. I guess it's technically a plugin and not a feature, but I would add a quick explanation and demonstration of Scaleable Extra Prime to the video. It's an absolute godsend for PETG printing, and in my opinion it's tied with the new bridging settings as the feature that improves the quality of prints the most. The difference it makes is really astounding.
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