Travis7s

Also double check your fans for debris. Even a small amount of strands slowing the fans down can have a significant impact on print quality.

My S5 works hassle free with easy to print materials like PLA/Tough PLA. You do have to do some "tinkering" with the bed and adhesives for more exotic materials like TPU and PP because these don't always want to stay put, but really no mechanical tinkering is required.

Its a unfortunate situation that happens from time to time. You should be able to salvage the cores and stuff, especially if thats just PLA filament. I actually have better luck leaving everything assembled and connected. I would manually turn up the temp on the nozzles to heat internally and carefully apply a heatgun from the outside to start working it loose.

When I use my Printdry I just peel off the label/NFC tag and put that on the NFC spool holder. You can use the same one over and over so just write what material type it is and then you don't have to peel off every spool. But you won't be able to track how much material has been used on the spool. (I never checked anyways)

Ultimaker says monthly for lubricating the axles. I usually forget so its more like every 6 weeks for me.

Not sure about UMS5 but on my UM3 "reset Cura Connect" would often fix my camera.

I have a workaround for this that seems to work fine for my uses. I just set the "Initial Layer Temperature" to match the "Printing Temperature" before slicing in Cura. This prevents the delay while the extruder heats back up in between parts and it doesn't seem to have any negative effects on plate adhesion for my parts.

Hey thanks, this is exactly what I'm looking for, guess I missed it in my searching. How much risk are we talking about here? I'll probably just wait a bit to try it out because our S5 and UM3 are basically running 24/7 right now on some bigger jobs.

Hi all, we've recently outfitted our UM3 with the Bondtech hardened feeders and the CC Red 0.6mm Print core with the intent to use BASF PP-GF30 filament. The main issue is there is no option to select the CC core with an UM3 in Cura 4.8. Is there a way to enable this or a good workaround? The lesser issue is there is no way to specify this material on the UM3 when loading it, which means you have to navigate through the warnings and override every print in Cura. Is there a way to add new materials to the UM3 material loading screen? Thanks.

In my experience with Ultimaker PC, it does generate a lot of very fine hairs that clog the fan quickly, to the point where I am cleaning it daily. I haven't tried any other brands so I'm not sure if this is a normal thing for all PC.

The command for 3.7 – 4.2.5 vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json still works for 5.2.16, I imagine Bondtech doesn't get around to updating their documentation every time Ultimaker does a firmware update. Be sure to read the instructions very carefully and it should work. I am a noob and my problem was I was pressing "x" to save the json file when I was supposed to be pressing ":x" Always a good idea to go back in after you are done and verify that the values actually changed.

I've never heard of the clips chipping the glass either but its good to have a few spare sheets of glass anyways. They will eventually chip from normal wear and tear especially if you print some of the higher temp materials. I get mine from the Canadian reseller Shop3D. Other good parts you might want to get are the silicone nozzle covers as I find these wear out pretty quickly, and possibly spare bowden tubes. Spare print cores are nice to have too just in case.

When I first got my UM3 a couple years ago I noticed some strange prime blob behavior too. It would once in a while make the blob way too big although it would never get to the point where it flooded the head. I haven't really noticed it again in the last 12-18 months so I figured it must have been fixed in one of the updates. Its worth noting that I almost never enable prime blob now, it doesn't really seem useful and even with a small blob it sometimes gets dragged back into the print zone.

Its happened to my UM3 as well. High enclosure temperatures definitely contribute to the problem. We were printing PC and it gets extra hot just due to the high build plate and nozzle temps. I didn't replace the sliding blocks but I did diagnose the print head bearings as going bad. Since replacing those a few months ago I have not had them pop out again.

It happened to me, seemed to be related to bad bearings in the print head. I replaced those and haven't had any more issues.