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Travis7s

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Travis7s last won the day on November 15 2023

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5
    Ultimaker 3 (Ext)
  • Industry
    Manufacturing

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Community Answers

  1. +1 for checking the side fans, debris like a loose chunk of support structure can get in there and jam them up. The printers can't report if the fans are actually running properly so you need to visually check.
  2. I used to get just a black screen for the camera and would fix it by "Cure Conect Reset" in the maintenance menu although I don't recall ever not seeing the blue camera icon.
  3. Personally I think skirt is a much nicer way to prime than a blob or extruding in space. Less "mess" inside the printer enclosure and blob especially becomes a liability because it can get dragged by the nozzle or sometimes people forget to remove the blob and you start getting blobs on top of blobs.
  4. Since no replies here, which is more of a end user community, probably best to open a help ticket from the official Ultimaker website. The support team there is pretty good.
  5. Just as an anecdote, my S5 was randomly failing and just saying "Print Failed" for seemingly no reason. But we eventually thought that the large air conditioner units would kick in and occasionally cause a power brown out that wasn't noticeable but caused the printer to reset. We added a UPS to the printer and never had the problem again.
  6. Click on Preferences >Configure Cura>Printers>Machine Settings
  7. Looks way better than the Printed Solid acrylic ones I bought.
  8. You can manually extrude by clicking on the filament type on the touchscreen, then the ellipsis (3 dots), then select "Move" It seems like its printing but then its either clogging or printing too close to the plate to extrude reliably. Is your filament getting grinded away by the feeder gear at the back? Its probably not a coincidence that the flow meter keeps going off, something must be preventing the filament from extruding properly...
  9. Putting money into a more refined version of the Creality CR-30 with the conveyor belt build plate seems like the way to go for me.
  10. Like Greg said, with most models just make sure the Z coordinate is not below 0 when printing. It can actually be pretty useful to purposely move a part below the plate to "cut it off" instead of having to do it in CAD. Its also fairly easy to accidentally grab the wrong slider and drag the part down and find out the next day.🤣
  11. So everything was looking good until about 2 weeks ago when I started getting some sporadic ER35 i2c errors. After rebooting the printer it started doing the erratic behaviour. (stopping half way to home, then trying to crash into the Y-axis switch corner). I inspected the print head cable and this time noticed that the shield wire had partially pulled out of the connector. I did my best to reseat and lock it back into place and it seems to be working normally. Not 100% sure this is the cause of all the issues but definitely notable.
  12. It kind of reminds me of an issue I was recently having with my S5, where it seems like a bent limit switch causes all kinds of chaotic behaviour and weird crashes, so I would be checking your Y-Switch out more closely.
  13. Well I'm not 100% sure on these but will give it a shot. *edit* Dustin did beat me while I was typing. 1. The printer knowing what material is loaded also means Cura will stop you from accidentally using the wrong print profile if you attempt to do so. You can override this though, if need be. 2. I'm pretty sure it is only based on what cleaning material you select, never had any issues with this. 3. I'm not sure it takes this into account, but I don't think it matters. The loading PLA temperature seems adequate to purge any material from the nozzle in my experience.. 4. With "standard" filaments like PLA/ABS/Nylon I almost never feel the need to do a cleaning besides the recommended 3 month maintenance schedule. With heavy printing of things like TPU and GFPP I've found weekly seems to be required.
  14. I think what happened is the fan door accidentally fell open and crashed into the (well stuck) part which shifted the glass and probably bent your door bracket worse. The magnets that hold the door shut do not have that much holding power so its possible that some dirt or debris is something was keeping it from full retention and it fell open. Or if it was handled roughly if may have caused some misalignment which affected the magnet's hold.
  15. Does it fail in both extruder 1 and 2 slots? Do you have any other BB or CC cores that do work? Seems very unlikely to have so many faulty print cores so I would guess there must be something wrong with the cable that goes to the print head. Try opening the print head and inspect the cable connector for any broken wires or loose contacts.
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