Travis7s

Thanks @Dustin, I had thought the same thing about the lift switch and calibrated it already, the bent arm doesn't seem bent enough to affect the lift switch from what I can tell. It seems like I have some kind of deeper issue because I tried another test print and this time carefully watched the auto level procedure. It seemed to start out fine and the first nozzle took all of its measurements. Then it switched to the other nozzle and starting to take a measurement but then stopped, the Z-axis motor seemingly powered off and the build plate "freefell" all the way down. The display messaged that auto level had failed and the print head went and very slowly crashed and stalled itself into the camera corner so I had to kill power.

Ultimaker S5 on 7.1.3 F/W Had a major malfunction the other day. Had just started to print the 1st layer (it did print down a few cm of material) when it aborted/crashed through the Y-Axis switch for some reason. A different employee noticed so I don't have a really good idea on what happened. It seemed to be stuck repeatedly crashing trying to get back home when power was turned off. When I got there and turned it back on nothing seemed apparently wrong except for the bent limit switch arm. It was able to home on its own and the limit switch works as expected however it keeps failing the auto level check before each print so I need to do some more digging into that. For now I'm just waiting to get a replacement switch but any insight into what happened here? logs-ultimakersystem-0030d622a0ed-7.1.3-20230224143950.zip

I don't think theres any way to put an exact number on how accurate it is, there are too many variables. Its pretty safe to say the Ultimakers can easily make parts accurate enough to fit together but its going to take a little practice and trial-and-error to make everything work consistently.

Shoutout to @gr5 who doesn't even read the thread and just casually solves it. All 3 fans are so critical to quality prints that I really wish there was some onboard diagnostics to catch issues.

Interesting test, thanks. It would be interesting to see a reverse test so see which objects release the easiest.

I would agree it seems like it should come with a flexible plate system although I have never personally used one (I've been meaning to order one). Chunks of glass coming off with the print happens a lot if you print with high temps directly on the glass, so I generally always use some kind of magigoo as it helps protect the glass. You'll find different materials will stick different amounts and I would also recommend get the Z-Offset plugin to help adjust this. Tough PLA/PLA works brilliantly with magigoo on my S5, it sticks like hell while printing but basically just comes off on its own after 5 minutes of cooldown. ABs sticks dangerously well and I find nylon to be about in the middle, just needs a little help with the spatula.

It will normally throw an ER code when the cable loses connection with the print head though, it seems odd that they can still access the menus.

With TPU I find it seems prone to partial nozzle clogs. Not enough to be that noticeable in print quality, but enough to trip the error. More frequent print core cleanings seem to help a lot for me.

I've found the nozzle tends to clog easily with TPU and the extruder can't apply enough pressure without grinding the filament. Try a printcore clean right before starting a new job and see if that helps. I tend to do a cleaning every 20-25 hours of printing with TPU.

I think you have to go to Settings - Configure Setting Visibility and check off the box for Z-Offset under Build Plate Adhesion

The UM3 and even the S5 still use the composite aluminum panels. The side panels are just polyethylene I think.

It does seem to keep the memory of the most recent job as you can have the option to retry if a print is aborted, but there doesn't seem to be a way to do it after a successful print. I, too, thought this would be a handy option to have, maybe at the "confirm build plate is clear" screen.

I also starting getting ER34 on my S5 this week. Took apart the cable clamp and the black shield/gnd wire has pulled out, seems like the little metal locking tab sheared off. This should be recrimped but for now I just shoved it back in and retightened everything and is working again for now. In my experience this is a major weakness in the design of this connection point because my UM3 also suffers from this problem a lot more regularly except there is no obvious pin damage, I just reseat the connector and it tends to go away for a while.

I've noticed peculiar issues with TPU even without a material station. Half the time when unloading, the nozzle doesn't get hot enough to release the filament, so it grinds. I have to manually turn up the heat a bit then pull it by hand. When printing "one at a time" it loves to flag the material as being empty in between parts. Not during a print, only before it starts on the next one. Theres no real pattern to this, sometimes I can print 16 parts in a row per plate, sometimes I need to hit the resume button for every part in a build.

Those holes aren't normal, a properly working printer shouldn't cause those and then you wouldn't have to worry about filling them. May need to take a closer look at what be happening there. That said, there are some epoxy products out there like XTC-3D that might work for you.

Its kind of hidden but for manual extrusion, Select the material on the touch screen > press the 3 dots in the top right corner > select Move Another, possibly better, way to purge is to to enable an extra large skirt to be printed in Cura under Build Plate Adhesion settings.

If you can make it work thats great but do note that both sides of the glass are not equal. I've found that you just have to be very careful with hot build plate prints as you can get things to over-adhere and then chip the glass. I recently did some ABS using a thin coat of Magigoo PA and it was brutal even after fully cooling down.

My Ultimaker 3 seems to have recently developed an issue where a layer near the bottom always prints extremely poorly, I believe it is the layer when it first starts printing infill. The rest of the print before and past that point will be totally fine. Any idea whats going on?

For undersize holes there is a feature in Cura called "Hole Horizontal Expansion" that works quite good, I typically just set to 0.4mm and this way you don't have to compensate in CAD.

Its certainly cheaper than buying a S3/S5 just for abrasive capability so it makes sense in that regard. We have the Bondtech feeders and CC core in our plain UM3. Its not happy about it but it does work, you just have to click the manual override for every print. Haven't tried tricking the printer into thinking its a different core but seems like a better solution long term.

I've never had good results right after cleaning a plate, even with 99% IPA. It seems like it just takes a bunch of heat cycles/failed prints to "season" the plates and then they work very reliably. I also recommend using some kind of gluestick or Magigoo or similar. If for nothing else but to add a protective barrier between your parts and the glass. You can often get really good adhesion with plain glass but you would be surprised how easy it is for the the glass to chip off when you remove parts.

Although I prefer genuine Ultimaker filament, I've had no issues on my S5 printing other big brands like BASF and even the cheapest Amazon stuff.

If you aren't using dual extrusion, then take the bowden clamp from the other feeder assembly and swap it in and see if that fixes it.

I, too, have found that Tough PLA (especially Ultimaker brand) sticks incredibly well to clean glass. Like Smithy said, you can use the Z offset plugin to back it off a bit and still get reliable adhesion that is more reasonable to remove.

One other thing I thought of. If your nozzle is way too close to the glass it can prevent extrusion and the gears can grind and strip the filament.