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  1. Thanks - yes, that worked although I had to do it via trial and error. Certainly changing orientation changes the degree of zig-zag. It seems that the orientation of the zig-zag doesn't relate to the model, but to the base grid. As always, thanks again
  2. Not sure why it does this in the first place, especially as it spills into the big hole - however, it turns out that the support inside the holes wasn't actually anywhere near the top of the holes, so wasn't doing anything and the holes print fine with selective removal of support. Thanks again for the help.
  3. I've designed a complex enclosure which will take 7 days to print, so I've got this 12-hour-print test piece to make sure sizes and supports work before setting off on a 7-day print for the whole thing - so two more questions. Firstly - after my problems with unnecessary support towers, I spotted that the support in the small holes (3.4mm) stopped 1mm short, so were actually doing nothing. I've been able to print these very nicely by selectively disabling support. But the final enclosure will have about 80 of these holes. Q: is there was a way of disabling support on small holes rather than
  4. Well I'll be darned .... for some reason I didn't even think of these as towers <DOH!!>. Turning them off, certainly works. Thanks!! I should have asked the question 20 hours-of-trying ago.
  5. I'm really struggling with an enclosure with holes in the vertical walls, where the 3mm screw holes are having external supports down to the build plate added, but the bigger 24mm holes are not. The external support doesn't even connect with the support inside the hole - it's also filling some of the left of the big holes, which are otherwise perfect. If I try to remove the support with support blocker I can only do it by including the hole - and all the support disappears (including the spurious support inside the big hole). All print settings are d
  6. I use a TP-Link N600-based router (TD-W8980) I was previously having no problems with wifi - even with the latest firmware, it worked fine. But something weird has happened in reverting to 4.3.3 Upgrading Linux version is something to be treated with great caution, as curious things can happen. I've had this with my Raspberry Pis and, with Linux (according to some Linux experts) you never upgrade the Linux version unless you absolutely have to - and if you do, testing has to be extensive. But I'm happily printing with the LAN cable and 4.3.3 for now
  7. Thanks, gr5 ... I think I'm going to stick to 4.3.3 for now. I'm retired, a hobbyist, and I don't actually print that often. But I'm in the middle of printing a couple of little audio-mixer front panels for a community project which has me up against a deadline (retirement is hard work !) Normally I only ever do levelling after I've had to remove the glass to clean it, but it's always an auto. Anyway, with the community help I'm back and functioning (although, for some reason, I've not been able to get the UM3 to connect to my wifi, although it does generate a hotspot, so I'm using
  8. I did try a factory reset this morning (after Dim3nsioneer's comment - but it definitely did not fix the problem. So I reverted to 4.3.3 as mentioned above, and all was well. So I tried upgrading back to the latest version, did a full setup, and the problem is back again. So I'm just about to go back to 4.3.3 (which was far less painful than I expected)
  9. Thanks - I've lost confidence that my UM3 will do what it's supposed to - but I'm used to uSD crads as I have lots of Raspberry Pis!) But, with fear in my heart, I'll give it a go. Thanks again - much appreciated
  10. Thanks Dim3nsioneer. I was following Ultimaker's advice when it comes to 4.3.97 Do you know where I can download 4.3.3?
  11. I was printing a largish print overnight last night, and it worked fine. Then this evening I upgraded to 5.2.11, just tried to print another copy overnight, and it doesn't print. There is clearly something very weird going on. 1: The display is a bit odd (strangely offset sometimes, but also isn't always showing plate/head warm-up progress) 2: MOST IMPORTANT: The print head starts right up against the glass plate, even after a full reset and auto-levelling. The result is that for the first layer nothing gets deposited - the next layer it works for part of the time, but there's a bit bu
  12. I've only just started using PLA Black on my Ultimaker 3 - but the printer doesn't recognise the NFC. It works absolutely fine with all other spools, so it suggests the NFC on the spool is faulty. As a final test, I borrowed the NFS insert from another spool, and that worked (except the UM3 detected the wrong colour of course). Is it possible to obtain a replacement NFC insert? I have emailed Ultimaker three times since the beginning of December, but have had np response. Thanks
  13. Thanks -- but I've done everything in (and outside) the manual. Having taken the feeder apart and also examined it in action, I think that there's a design issue which could easily be solved. I'm looking to see if I can produce a simple fix. And it seems a bit odd to be talking about replacing a printer that I've only had a few weeks.
  14. I have exactly the same noises - it is as though something is loose and rattling (definitely not the levelling noises). Follow-up ... yes, there's something rattling in the print head unit. But I've done a lot more investigation and there ARE also levelling noises. Just touching the build-plate screw I can feel the screw moving fractionally.
  15. Thanks for the thoughts. I've done some experiments based on the above (Wedgebot not necessary) ... I did find that cutting to a point didn't always help, but adding a slight bend at the end away from the catch-point made the difference.
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