Jump to content

emtee

Dormant
  • Posts

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by emtee

  1. Thanks - RF is part of my background, so I do understand RF issues - and it helps that I have a couple of spectrum analysers and see nothing untoward. I have to say that it has all come good now (although I have to go to "manage printers" sometimes to get Cura to reconnect to it) - and I suspect that there may have been an issue with the HiRose-style RF connector as the only thing I did was reseat it. I couldn't quite figure out where the aerial actually was (but didn't go hunting for it!) So I guess time will tell. As an aside, I found two screws that had worked themselves very loose - presumably through vibration.
  2. Thanks for the thoughts - I thought of checking the aerial, but haven't done so yet - will do. And I'm planning on using a powerline connection - I have a couple of spares from a network project I was working on (I do a lot of network work), but I'd rather use WiFi. But these problems have developed, and nothing has changed (other than updated firmware) - the adjacent printers have always been there, and actually predate the UM3 (by a year or so). Thanks again
  3. My UM3 has been flakey for some time when it comes to getting or maintaining a WiFi connection. Sometimes it'll just loose its connection, other times it's okay but won't reconnect when it's switched on. I appreciate UM3 is no longer supported, but if anyone has any tips to improve matters I'd be grateful - memory stick and ethernet aren't really practical. Things I've tried include updating firmware to 5.3.0 (after which it connected immediately, but then disconnected after an hour or so and wouldn't connect again). rebooting router and PC, checking WiFi signal strength (should be more than enough), and resetting WiFi config on the UM3. It is sat between two ordinary printers which are 100% solid on WiFi, and have a good signal - but I've experimented with it in different positions to no avail. Thanks
  4. Thanks - yes, that worked although I had to do it via trial and error. Certainly changing orientation changes the degree of zig-zag. It seems that the orientation of the zig-zag doesn't relate to the model, but to the base grid. As always, thanks again
  5. Not sure why it does this in the first place, especially as it spills into the big hole - however, it turns out that the support inside the holes wasn't actually anywhere near the top of the holes, so wasn't doing anything and the holes print fine with selective removal of support. Thanks again for the help.
  6. I've designed a complex enclosure which will take 7 days to print, so I've got this 12-hour-print test piece to make sure sizes and supports work before setting off on a 7-day print for the whole thing - so two more questions. Firstly - after my problems with unnecessary support towers, I spotted that the support in the small holes (3.4mm) stopped 1mm short, so were actually doing nothing. I've been able to print these very nicely by selectively disabling support. But the final enclosure will have about 80 of these holes. Q: is there was a way of disabling support on small holes rather than having to disable each one individually? Secondly - the three holes on the left are supported with the selected zig-zag support, and work fine. But the support in the hole on the right is solid, and not zig-zag - but it does have tiny gap top and bottom, so at least it can be removed. Q: why would this happen and can it be fixed? As always, many thanks.
  7. Well I'll be darned .... for some reason I didn't even think of these as towers <DOH!!>. Turning them off, certainly works. Thanks!! I should have asked the question 20 hours-of-trying ago.
  8. I'm really struggling with an enclosure with holes in the vertical walls, where the 3mm screw holes are having external supports down to the build plate added, but the bigger 24mm holes are not. The external support doesn't even connect with the support inside the hole - it's also filling some of the left of the big holes, which are otherwise perfect. If I try to remove the support with support blocker I can only do it by including the hole - and all the support disappears (including the spurious support inside the big hole). All print settings are default, and I'm using single extruder. The support setting is left at everywhere because if I select touching buildplate I lose all "internal" supports (support blocker not set): Increasing the support overhang angle from 60 to 64 degrees removes some of the spurious support in the big hole, but the rest doesn't change. Unfortunately, I've lost track of which settings I've changed in trying to resolve this, but nothing has removed these external supports which make the printed model unusable. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks
  9. I use a TP-Link N600-based router (TD-W8980) I was previously having no problems with wifi - even with the latest firmware, it worked fine. But something weird has happened in reverting to 4.3.3 Upgrading Linux version is something to be treated with great caution, as curious things can happen. I've had this with my Raspberry Pis and, with Linux (according to some Linux experts) you never upgrade the Linux version unless you absolutely have to - and if you do, testing has to be extensive. But I'm happily printing with the LAN cable and 4.3.3 for now
  10. Thanks, gr5 ... I think I'm going to stick to 4.3.3 for now. I'm retired, a hobbyist, and I don't actually print that often. But I'm in the middle of printing a couple of little audio-mixer front panels for a community project which has me up against a deadline (retirement is hard work !) Normally I only ever do levelling after I've had to remove the glass to clean it, but it's always an auto. Anyway, with the community help I'm back and functioning (although, for some reason, I've not been able to get the UM3 to connect to my wifi, although it does generate a hotspot, so I'm using a long network cable right through the house just to get these printed and I'll tackle the wifi issue later). It's worth noting that the weird display issues (offset, and no temperature statuses) with the latest version DID go away when I did the factory reset. I hope that all the issues will be sorted on the next release.
  11. I did try a factory reset this morning (after Dim3nsioneer's comment - but it definitely did not fix the problem. So I reverted to 4.3.3 as mentioned above, and all was well. So I tried upgrading back to the latest version, did a full setup, and the problem is back again. So I'm just about to go back to 4.3.3 (which was far less painful than I expected)
  12. Thanks - I've lost confidence that my UM3 will do what it's supposed to - but I'm used to uSD crads as I have lots of Raspberry Pis!) But, with fear in my heart, I'll give it a go. Thanks again - much appreciated
  13. Thanks Dim3nsioneer. I was following Ultimaker's advice when it comes to 4.3.97 Do you know where I can download 4.3.3?
  14. I was printing a largish print overnight last night, and it worked fine. Then this evening I upgraded to 5.2.11, just tried to print another copy overnight, and it doesn't print. There is clearly something very weird going on. 1: The display is a bit odd (strangely offset sometimes, but also isn't always showing plate/head warm-up progress) 2: MOST IMPORTANT: The print head starts right up against the glass plate, even after a full reset and auto-levelling. The result is that for the first layer nothing gets deposited - the next layer it works for part of the time, but there's a bit buildup of filament and it's very "lumpy", but ultra-thin/transparent in places where the print head is right up against the glass. The initial "poo dump" works fine - and then nothing. I've tried using the Ultimaker page that shows how to go back to 4.3.97 (via USB) but there's no USB option in the menu. I'm terrified that my UM3 is now useless. Are there any other suggestions on how I can revert to a previous version that works?
  15. I've only just started using PLA Black on my Ultimaker 3 - but the printer doesn't recognise the NFC. It works absolutely fine with all other spools, so it suggests the NFC on the spool is faulty. As a final test, I borrowed the NFS insert from another spool, and that worked (except the UM3 detected the wrong colour of course). Is it possible to obtain a replacement NFC insert? I have emailed Ultimaker three times since the beginning of December, but have had np response. Thanks
  16. Thanks -- but I've done everything in (and outside) the manual. Having taken the feeder apart and also examined it in action, I think that there's a design issue which could easily be solved. I'm looking to see if I can produce a simple fix. And it seems a bit odd to be talking about replacing a printer that I've only had a few weeks.
  17. I have exactly the same noises - it is as though something is loose and rattling (definitely not the levelling noises). Follow-up ... yes, there's something rattling in the print head unit. But I've done a lot more investigation and there ARE also levelling noises. Just touching the build-plate screw I can feel the screw moving fractionally.
  18. Thanks for the thoughts. I've done some experiments based on the above (Wedgebot not necessary) ... I did find that cutting to a point didn't always help, but adding a slight bend at the end away from the catch-point made the difference.
  19. From day 1 (4 days ago), feeder 1 keeps getting jammed up when I first feed the filament. It deviates off to the left and is visible through the hole. Sometimes it's possible to grab it and pull the misfeed out, but I've had to completely dismantle the feeder on a couple of occasions. It's now sometimes not feeding consistently. I'm making sure that the filament (I'm using the supplied filaments) is cut cleanly and is straight, and is pushed firmly into the feeder, but that doesn't seem to matter. Is there some knack to this?
×
×
  • Create New...