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  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3
  1. I had this with PVA filament that was damaged by moisture. If you are using PVA (or any other moisture sensitive material, like nylon), make sure to store it in a drybox of some sort (buy one, or make one yourself. Just google it )
  2. Hi again Ah, just saw your post. Wish i had seen it 30 minutes ago. I believe i did cause a problem with the slight bending of the limit switch earlier. This caused the limit to come too soon, which i thought wouldnt matter at all since i'm not trying to print anything on the farthest out piece of the print bed. But today i watched the printer as it printed and realised that it used an external "switch flipper" to change the print core up and down. This did in fact not work very well, and i believe that me bending the switched caused this (the printed head thinking that is was further back than it really was). I did however bend the switch back again before seeing your post, and when i did the diagnostics just now the testing of the switching worked very well. It looked alot more solid than on the printing done today. Wish i had tried that before to see if it really did fail some times, or if it was me mis-judging the print. I do however experience a new type of problem now, when doing a bit taller prints. I am currently prototyping some enclosures (OT bragging: for a gateway we've constructed, for a startup im running with a friend (http://www.d-rail.se/)). This has failed two times today, due to layer shifting. The shift has come on the same part of the same print, but on very different heights (one being close to the build plate and this one being much further up: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9n9qcft7axsgqcv/20180413_202953.jpg?dl=0 Checking the belt tension by hand. You can hardly press the top belt all the way down to the bottom since it is very tense, but the bottom belt is very loose: https://www.dropbox.com/s/mkjyfqb7e2rbsv4/20180413_202600.mp4?dl=0 Using the diagnostics tool you can see that the front belt on the lower part is wobbling wildly. The back belt feels alot more tense. https://www.dropbox.com/s/mkjyfqb7e2rbsv4/20180413_202600.mp4?dl=0 Could i try to pull the belt one or two tooths on the pulley, or loosen the screw and adjusting so that the "loose tension" is divided evenly on the top and bottom part of the belt? Or do i risk causing some problem doing so?
  3. That did it. The cable wasnt worn down through the tubing, but more likely been pulled by the belt very slightly back and forth until the soldering came loose. Re-soldered it (sounds easier than it was in that tight corner and with my lumberjack hands, since the cables were about as long as they needed to be) and then bent the cables slightly towards the chassi so that the belt cant touch them again. No more trying to shove the printer head through the back of the machine
  4. Nevermind. The dust visible was the belt touching the cable from the limit switch, which had made it come loose just a tiny bit. As soon as i unscrewed the switch and as soon as i touched the shrink tubing the whole cable came loose from the switch. I tried the "home" button with the cable completely loose and it now tried a few times more and then produced the error message E17, so i bet that before i unscrewed it it was actually veeery close, intermittently touching the connection with the switch and after a few times crashing the corner it produced enough of a signal to say "im at the end now" (since i never once had the E17 message before). Ill try soldering it up tonight, and will try to tape it to the side so that it wont come in contact with the belt again.
  5. It does not influence movement. Checked the PCB board and it was very well connected, so it seems the limit switch is broken. Do i contact the reseller? And thank you for the very quick replies, much appreciated!
  6. https://www.dropbox.com/s/c8y1uhsvnu5drat/20180411_121720_001.mp4?dl=0 I tried moving it, but it is such a snug fit that it wasnt possible to shift the trigger and its lever more than a fraction of a millimeter when unscrewing it from the side of the UM3. Bending the lever was however quite easy, so it now clicks alot sooner. The problem still persists tho. Watch the movie above. 07:560 - the lever snaps back: "printer head not in corner" 08:950 - the lever clicks again: "printer head in corner" 10:300 all the way to 11:000 - the printer head slams into the corner three times. So it either does not register the trigger, or it registers too slow. If the sensor cables are disconnected, will it stop trying to slam the corner like now, or would it keep trying to get in in for a longer time? The reason im asking and not checking is that it seems that i need to disassemble a bit to check that It also appears something is being grinded, as dust particles appear: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qjbgzoduwr00rw2/20180411_122603.jpg?dl=0
  7. Hi folks Been scanning the forum but havent found someone that seems to have the same problem as I do (if it is a problem). The printer is new, and made this sound out of the box, but I'm pretty sure it's not a normal sound. https://www.dropbox.com/s/66djuu4955x4i4c/20180411_113325.mp4?dl=0 1. Is it normal? 2. If not, any suggestion on what might be the cause of it? I've tried printing, and it shows no issues in the prints as far as i can see. The sound is only produced at the beginning of the prints (when it seems to reset or go rest in the corner). Prints with dual extrusion works well aswell.
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