Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
  • Industry

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi guys, What is the definition of "skin" listed in the time specification down below? Why does it cost so much percentage of time? Is it normal? Thanks.
  2. Hi gr5, You method works well for me! No strings,pits and the corner becomes smoother after smaller retraction and bigger travel speed. Could you tell me why does travel affect strings, blobs and pits? I curious about the reasons. Thanks, Jake
  3. Hi gr5, Thanks a lot for your suggestions. I have set the retraction speed down to 1mm. The travel speed has been cranked up to 250mm/sec. I am gonna printed more this morning. Some guys said the initial layer speed should be lower but you suggested to printed with constant speed. What's the reason behind it? BTW, I saw many people suggested that the color dye will absorb water severely but the natural ABS is fine. I thought the little pits are caused by the evaporated moisture. Thanks again.
  4. Hi guys, I recently printed with white-color ABS and black-color PLA. I found the parts always include pits and strings on the surface. You can see these defects in 'string and pits surface ABS. jpg' and 'string surface PLA. jpg' attached below. This phenomenon is especially obvious when printing with white ABS. The weird thing is the pits and string only show up at certain areas instead of the whole surface. Like in 'string and pits surface ABS. jpg', defects only show up on one side of wall. They don't show up on the bottom surface or other walls. The same is true for 'string surface
  5. Awesome explanation! I love this forum! The better methods to print smaller parts are listed as follows based on yellowshark and geert_2's suggestions: 1 lower printing temp (both excessive high or low temp will let the part deformed); 2 less layer height, like 0.1mm is better than 0.2mm (less material, less deformation); 3 slower printing speed (20~30mm/s except for the first layer); 4 print multiple parts or dummy parts (special designed to equalise cooling time) together to make sure the sufficient cooling time
  6. Thanks for your comments! I will make a temp towel before I move on.
  7. Thanks, yellowshark! The reason why I used 220 on the nozzle is because the lowest recommend temperature on that PLA spool is 210. I saw there are oozing/stringing inside of the small part, which means your suggestion is correct. I will lower the temperature to just above the under extrusion temp. I will also try to print two parts at the same time. Other setting are adjusted as you recommended.
  8. Hi guys, I was always happy to play with PLA on the Anet A8 until recently I printed some small parts in bad shape. As you see in the pictures, the bigger part(70mm length x 70mm width) has good quality but the small part with the same Cura setting( listed below ) gets some cracks and uneven surface. The major Cura settings are listed as follows: 1. layer height is 0.2mm; 2. wall thickness 0.8; 3. 100% infill density; 4. printing temperature is 220; 5. build plate temperature is 65; 6. printing speed is 30 and initial layer speed is 10; 7. regular fan speed is 70% and max is 9
  • Create New...