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KickahaOta last won the day on May 31 2018

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  1. Is there an enhanced service plan for the S3 like there is for the S5? There appears to be no mention of it on ultimaker.com. MatterHackers has none in stock and has no ETA for obtaining one. Only one online retailer lists one (https://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/products/enhanced-service-plan-for-ultimaker-s3).
  2. People think that honeycomb is the strongest because bees do it. Evolution doesn't select for "the best". It selects for "good enough to get by." :)
  3. This problem can generally be solved by installing (or reinstalling) the Universal C Runtime. Check https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/2999226/update-for-universal-c-runtime-in-windows to find the proper download link for your OS.
  4. I can't solve the problem, and I can't quite isolate what causes it, but what I can figure out may be helpful. And it would be helpful for someone to post some of the .gcode files with the offending crashing movement. Here's a simplified version what the script is trying to do: * Look at all of the lines in the gcode, letting most of them through passively. For each line: * * If the line has a " Z" coordinate, then make a note of it; this is the current Z. * * If we're pausing at, say, layer 10, and this line is anything other than ";LAYER:10", then just go on to the
  5. From what I've learned so far, this usually requires an adjustment in Standby Temperature. When, say, Material 1 is printing, the hot end for that material heats up to the Printing Temperature you've defined. When Material 2 is printing, the hot end for Material 1 is allowed to cool down to the Standby Temperature. This is quite a difference -- printing temperatures are typically 200C and more, and the default Standby Temperature is 100C. Sometimes this can cause the filament to fail to heat up all the way in time, so it winds up not printing (or at least leaving gaps).
  6. Small circular holes printed with most filaments (especially PLA) will come out smaller than designed, because the material pulls together before it cools. The degree of shrinkage will depend on the printer, the material, and the size and orientation of the holes. You may find https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2918438 to be useful in testing exactly how much larger the STL file's holes need to be in order to come out the right size.
  7. Hissing and popping is a sign of PVA that's absorbed moisture, which can really affect the PVA's performance. Note that keeping PVA in a sealed bag (preferably with desiccant) will keep the PVA from absorbing moisture, but won't do anything to remove moisture that's already there. If possible, your best bet is to dry it out at around 55C for a few hours. If you use an oven for this, it's important to use one with good temperature control, because higher heat can damage the filament further. If you have a printer with a heated built plate and an enclosure, that can work very well as
  8. Yes, you found the limit switch test. It's not automated like some of the other tests are. * If you manually move the print head to the left and right, the "X" box should display an "X" whenever the print head is at the left edge of its range. * If you manually move the print head forward and back, the "Y" box should display an "X" whenever the print head is at the back edge of its range. * Irrelevant to your problem, but: If you manually move the build plate up and down, the "Z" box should display an "X" whenever the build plate is at the bottom of its range. * If the "X" for a
  9. Just as a comparison, here's what the the calibration looks like and sounds like on a UM3 that's not having issues. fbrc8-erin is certainly right that the homing operation looks and sounds different in your video. https://1drv.ms/v/s!Aot6t7hrbQ2kkLBIKrWT23oaZcX6_g Also, the only changes in the 20180529 firmware were adding Tough PLA to the Materials list and a change to how the bootloader works. So that may be a red herring here.
  10. Pretty much every "beginner's guide to 3D printing" I look at emphasizes the importance of calibrating the extruders (making sure that "extrude 100mm" is actually pushing 100mm of filament and not 104 or 97), to avoid over/underextrusion. In contrast, the Ultimaker documentation for over/underextrustion doesn't even appear to mention extruder calibration as a possible solution. And changing the extruder steps setting requires going into developer mode and editing files, then repeating that every time there's a firmware upgrade. I thought about phrasing this as a featur
  11. Also, I should have asked: is this a one-time thing, or are you going to be printing a lot of these types of objects on an ongoing basis? If it's a one-time thing, and you need really good results, it might be worth sending this one to Shapeways or to a local custom-manufacturing business that can use higher-end equipment with different technologies.
  12. Thanks for the clarification. Suggestion: If you can't get rid of the error message because of the technical limitation, change the text of the last question from "When you click ‘save’ you’ll see an overview of your answers for a final review. You can close that page when you’re done." to "When you click 'save' you'll see an 'error 2T252/2' message, but don't worry, we got your survey answers."
  13. That's a neat use case! For any object like that you're going to need to tell Cura to build support. Since you've tagged this as "UM2", unfortunately this is likely to be very difficult to produce a nice clean print -- in my limited experience, it takes a lot of work to sand an smooth an ABS piece to get the support marks off, and doing it for an object with delicate structures is going to be even more difficult. This is an object that cries out for a dual-extruder printer; then you could use PVA support (listed as "experimental" with ABS, but it worked when I tried it), and you co
  14. That is certainly a viable option. And I imagine that's the option I would use if I frequently used materials that require glue adhesion, since at that point I need to wash the plate anyway. But normal PLA prints don't need that, and when I print a thingy, it's often because I need the thingy as soon as I can safely get the thingy. ?
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