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Everything posted by KickahaOta

  1. People think that honeycomb is the strongest because bees do it. Evolution doesn't select for "the best". It selects for "good enough to get by." :)
  2. Are you running Windows 7 Service Pack 1?
  3. This problem can generally be solved by installing (or reinstalling) the Universal C Runtime. Check https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/2999226/update-for-universal-c-runtime-in-windows to find the proper download link for your OS.
  4. I can't solve the problem, and I can't quite isolate what causes it, but what I can figure out may be helpful. And it would be helpful for someone to post some of the .gcode files with the offending crashing movement. Here's a simplified version what the script is trying to do: * Look at all of the lines in the gcode, letting most of them through passively. For each line: * * If the line has a " Z" coordinate, then make a note of it; this is the current Z. * * If we're pausing at, say, layer 10, and this line is anything other than ";LAYER:10", then just go on to the next line in the gcode.. * * If we're pausing at, say, 10mm, and this line doesn't have a Z coordinate that's greater than 10 millimeters, then just go on to the next line in the gcode. * * If we reach the end of the file, we're done. * Okay, if we made it here, it must be time to pause. Add the following commands (and a few others) to the gcode: * * Move to the current Z position that we made a note of earlier, plus 1mm. (On the Ultimaker, this is intended to be "Lower the build plate a tad.") * * Move the head to the X/Y park position. * * If the current Z position is less than 15 millimeters, then move Z to 15 millimeters. * * Pause. * * Move the head and the built plate back to their original locations. * Now just don't change any of the rest of the gcode; we're done. The problem with this is that there are some Cura-generated gcode files where the first few layers don't contain Z coordinates, at least not in the format that the script is expecting. As a result, the script's "current Z" stays at zero while it's reading those layers. If you're pausing at a layer, and the target layer is in the early part of the file that doesn't contain the expected Z coordinates, this results in the failure you're seeing. The script tries to lower the build plate by 1mm; but since it still thinks that the current Z coordinate is zero, it winds up lifting the build plate until it's 1mm below the print head, smashing the print head into the object. If you're pausing at a height, and the target height is in the early part of the file that doesn't contain the expected Z coordinates, then the script still fails, but in a more subtle way; it won't generate the pause until the first layer that does have a Z coordinate in the expected format. So the print head and build plate don't do anything wacky, but the pause is too high.
  5. From what I've learned so far, this usually requires an adjustment in Standby Temperature. When, say, Material 1 is printing, the hot end for that material heats up to the Printing Temperature you've defined. When Material 2 is printing, the hot end for Material 1 is allowed to cool down to the Standby Temperature. This is quite a difference -- printing temperatures are typically 200C and more, and the default Standby Temperature is 100C. Sometimes this can cause the filament to fail to heat up all the way in time, so it winds up not printing (or at least leaving gaps). Note that setting the Standby Temperature to match the Printing Temperature probably isn't the right plan either -- that can cause oozing from the unused nozzle. You'll probably need to experiment to find a Standby Temperature that lets the material print on cue without causing oozing.
  6. Small circular holes printed with most filaments (especially PLA) will come out smaller than designed, because the material pulls together before it cools. The degree of shrinkage will depend on the printer, the material, and the size and orientation of the holes. You may find https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2918438 to be useful in testing exactly how much larger the STL file's holes need to be in order to come out the right size.
  7. Hissing and popping is a sign of PVA that's absorbed moisture, which can really affect the PVA's performance. Note that keeping PVA in a sealed bag (preferably with desiccant) will keep the PVA from absorbing moisture, but won't do anything to remove moisture that's already there. If possible, your best bet is to dry it out at around 55C for a few hours. If you use an oven for this, it's important to use one with good temperature control, because higher heat can damage the filament further. If you have a printer with a heated built plate and an enclosure, that can work very well as a dryer. And once your PVA is dry, always put it away -- in a sealed bag, with a desiccant -- as soon as you're done with it.
  8. Yes, you found the limit switch test. It's not automated like some of the other tests are. * If you manually move the print head to the left and right, the "X" box should display an "X" whenever the print head is at the left edge of its range. * If you manually move the print head forward and back, the "Y" box should display an "X" whenever the print head is at the back edge of its range. * Irrelevant to your problem, but: If you manually move the build plate up and down, the "Z" box should display an "X" whenever the build plate is at the bottom of its range. * If the "X" for a given axis doesn't reliably turn off and on when it should, then you have a problem with the limit switch for that axis. For the X and Y axis, this can result in homing failures, layer shifts, and failures to properly toggle the lift switch.
  9. Just as a comparison, here's what the the calibration looks like and sounds like on a UM3 that's not having issues. fbrc8-erin is certainly right that the homing operation looks and sounds different in your video. https://1drv.ms/v/s!Aot6t7hrbQ2kkLBIKrWT23oaZcX6_g Also, the only changes in the 20180529 firmware were adding Tough PLA to the Materials list and a change to how the bootloader works. So that may be a red herring here.
  10. Pretty much every "beginner's guide to 3D printing" I look at emphasizes the importance of calibrating the extruders (making sure that "extrude 100mm" is actually pushing 100mm of filament and not 104 or 97), to avoid over/underextrusion. In contrast, the Ultimaker documentation for over/underextrustion doesn't even appear to mention extruder calibration as a possible solution. And changing the extruder steps setting requires going into developer mode and editing files, then repeating that every time there's a firmware upgrade. I thought about phrasing this as a feature request -- for an extruder calibrator built into the firmware that prompts you through the measurement steps and then adjusts the steps-per-millimeter settings appropriately. But the absence of documentation suggests that this is a deliberate decision. So I'll just make it a question: What's Ultimaker's position on extruder calibration? Is there something about the Ultimaker design that makes it unnecessary, or that means that there are better ways of adjusting for possible overfeeding/underfeeding?
  11. Also, I should have asked: is this a one-time thing, or are you going to be printing a lot of these types of objects on an ongoing basis? If it's a one-time thing, and you need really good results, it might be worth sending this one to Shapeways or to a local custom-manufacturing business that can use higher-end equipment with different technologies.
  12. Thanks for the clarification. Suggestion: If you can't get rid of the error message because of the technical limitation, change the text of the last question from "When you click ‘save’ you’ll see an overview of your answers for a final review. You can close that page when you’re done." to "When you click 'save' you'll see an 'error 2T252/2' message, but don't worry, we got your survey answers."
  13. That's a neat use case! For any object like that you're going to need to tell Cura to build support. Since you've tagged this as "UM2", unfortunately this is likely to be very difficult to produce a nice clean print -- in my limited experience, it takes a lot of work to sand an smooth an ABS piece to get the support marks off, and doing it for an object with delicate structures is going to be even more difficult. This is an object that cries out for a dual-extruder printer; then you could use PVA support (listed as "experimental" with ABS, but it worked when I tried it), and you could dissolve the support away afterwards without leaving any marks.
  14. That is certainly a viable option. And I imagine that's the option I would use if I frequently used materials that require glue adhesion, since at that point I need to wash the plate anyway. But normal PLA prints don't need that, and when I print a thingy, it's often because I need the thingy as soon as I can safely get the thingy. ?
  15. I just tried to take the survey and got "error 2T252/2" when I submitted. Not exactly an actionable error message, unfortunately.
  16. For some of my PLA prints (which I print with a 60C build plate temperature), I find that I get a better result if I wait until the plate is down to 40C or 35C before removing the object from the plate. Unfortunately, there's no good way to see the temperature, since when the UM3 interface is on the "Please remove object" screen, you can't go to any other screens before choosing "Print removed", at which point you've put the printer back online and, well, you'd better have removed the object from the plate. :) I was going to suggest putting the build plate temperature on the "Please remove object" screen, but it seemed like that would be significant work and likely wouldn't meet a feature-request bar. Then I printed my first CFE+ object (with the build plate cranked up to 107C), and saw that when the build plate temperature is above 60C, the "Cooling built plate" screen is displayed instead, and that screen does show the temperature. So all of a sudden my request seems at least vaguely reasonable. :) Any thoughts on letting the user configure the temperature threshold at which the "Cooling build plate" screen is displayed in place of the plain "Please remove object" screen? For my purposes it wouldn't even have to be in the UM3 or Cura interface; I'd be happy if it was something I could add to the starting or ending G-code for the printer or the job.
  17. Welcome to 'Everyone gives you settings to play with." :) If the problem is happening at the highest point of the model, and especially if it only happens with this model (or similar models that come to a point), it may be that the highest layers of the model are printing too quickly -- that there's not enough time for the material to cool before new material gets laid down on top of it, and the peak collapses into a disc as a result. To see if this is it, try changing the "Minimum Layer Time" from the default 5 seconds to 30. (If this turns out to be the issue, a setting of 15 or even 10 may well be fine and will speed up the print.) Also turn on the "Lift Head" setting so that the warm nozzle isn't parked directly on top of the fragile area of the print during the waiting time.
  18. It would be really hard for routing multiple materials through one nozzle during a print to be practical. Sure, you can retract Material A and feed in Material B; but there's still going to be a significant amount of leftover Material A in the nozzle. Think about the existing process of swapping materials or print cores -- after making a swap, you have to move a significant amount of material through the nozzle before you start getting a good, pure extrusion of the new material. You'd wind up wasting a lot of material and time if you had to do that multiple times during the print, especially if you had to do it during every layer. And, of course, if the print temperature of the materials is different, things get harder.
  19. Well, there's one surefire way to make whatever change you want to a profile: * In Cura, choose "Show Configuration Folder". * Exit Cura. * In the file-explorer window for the configuration folder, open the "quality" folder. * Locate the .cfg file for the offending profile. * Open it in a text editor. * (Carefully) make whatever changes you want. In your case, just find the line for the offending material-diameter setting and delete that line. * Save your changes and exit the text editor, and restart Cura.
  20. In Cura, whenever you've manually changed a parameter, you should see a curved arrow next to the parameter's edit box. Clicking this arrow reverts the setting to its default, and causes the profile to no longer change that setting.
  21. Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion is a Cura setting. It's an advanced one, so you may have to go into the configuration dialog and make that setting visible before you can adjust it in your prints.
  22. I like the thoughts. Just bear in mind that a quad-extruder printer would be even slower than the Ultimaker 3, which is already considered slow. (The more machinery you've got in a print head, the greater its mass; the greater the mass of the print head, the harder it is to move it around quickly.) If you're after lots of colors rather than different material types, an approach that prints CMYK colors on the surface of a print -- like the 3D Systems ZPrinter or the DaVinci Color -- might be a better solution.
  23. It's definitely there (at least in the Windows beta). You may have to go to the configuration screen and make the setting visible.
  24. There's a link to the beta binaries on the Ultimaker Cura download page, https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software .
  25. I was hoping that was what that firmware drop was for; thanks!
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