Timothy_Egoroff

I am cringing at my previous reply, I found this: The pre-compiled hex-files are allowing up to 300°C as nozzle temperature. If you import a MATERIAL.TXT file with higher nozzle temperature, this becomes the new maximum. Use it at your own risk... Steps/mm and rotation direction for all axis can be adjusted on the printer (Advanced -> Preferences -> Motion settings) If you still have a need to compile it yourself, have a look at the "cookbook" that @gr5 made (including links to the source repositories at GitHub): How to build Marlin the way tinkerghome and Ultimaker do it if you have windows here is the page: will this work with the Ultimaker 3 (extended)? if it does then it may be the answer.

yep, thank you, i will do this.

hi, do you know how to bypass the temperature limiter?

Thank you for your comment gr5, this is only for printing smaller parts for me that is , but for other users who aren't afraid of further modification, C-Coat is further used to insulate the walls (sides back and bottom at 1-1.5mm thickness) to prevent any steppers or other electronics from over-heating, also the bottom of the heat bed should be coated to trap heat so only the top can emit thermal energy into the printed part, this may allow an increase of over 1.8 times the total highest temperature limit if a thick coating is applied. so hot plate (modified) should reach required temp, and air should stay hot without exerting heat on steppers... i aught to try it now.

I want to use the Ultimaker 3- 3D printer to Print with Very high temperature materials such as: PEEK, PEKK, ULTEM and their carbon and glass fibre variants with print temperatures between 350 Degrees Celsius and over 400 Degrees Celsius. The problem is the temperature malfunction that occurs just over 350 Degrees C, this is the part I need help with, How Can this Be bypassed? the project information: If you choose to do this, I am not responsible for the device jamming from excess paint/incorrect positioning of components during application of C-Coat (TM) given my directions. The Experimental means by which the existing hotend(s) should to be modified in order to prevent the plastic contacted surfaces from bending or melting During Use is described: ---before doing what is described, please clean all oil and dust from the metal surfaces to be painted!--- The entire heating block (Excluding the Nozzle, and the axially adjacent Nut) is Coated with: C-COATTM ceramic thermal-insulation Paint, using a very small paint brush, then leave to dry. raise the bottom of the heat-sink from the plastic holder so the heat-sink no longer makes contact with the plastic holder, either clamp the holder in this position or remove the top holder screw to release the tension in the spring all together, coat the bottom of the heat-sink with the C-Coat paint, then set aside to dry. Now the top screw must be removed in order to release tension on the spring for this step- pull the heatsink assembly all the way back in order to expose the bottom part of the heat sink connector which comes into contact with the plastic holder, now clamp or zip-tie the heatsink assembly in this position and apply a thin layer of C-Coat to the exposed metal surface, leave to dry, then remove to clamp or ziptye and push the coated bottom of the heat sink against the plastic holder face, secure and paint another thin layer on the end of the exposed metal surface, leave to dry, at this paint all of the faces that directly contact the surface of the plastic holder have been coated with the micro insulation paint (C-Coat). C-Coat insulation experinment:

yes after trying to find the other types of extruder gears compatible with Ultimaker 3, i think i will just use the DDG kit for UM3 because there are no other options that won't void the warranty, also hobbed gears i realize may not have enough grip anyway. the DDG kit for UM3 seems to be the best because the edges are not knife sharp so the filament should not fracture with this, i found the extruder in stock on 3Dsolex.com but i might buy it from you. thanks for the feedback

(filament is here) https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/layceramic-3.00mm/sk/M7RE5J6P thank you for the tips, this filament is quite brittle (CLAY BASED) and needs to be pre-heated before extrusion, and have the force from the extruder gear dispersed as much as possible to avoid fracture

Hi i Have just purchased a hardcore hot end for the UM3 from 3Dsolex.com, and a ruby nozzle from Imaginables.com for printing abrasive filaments, and i am wondering what sort of (3rd party) extruder would be best for extruding the Layceramic filament, I found an SLA printed 3rd party extruder set on 3Dsolex.com called: 'DDG Bondtech for Ultimaker 3'. If neither the default extruder, or this DDG Bondtech extruder are suitable, then would another type of Hobbed Gear Extruder be suitable (given the criteria of avoiding possible grinding and filament breakage from excess pressure)?