sajawors

Let us know if that worked! I actually came back to ask the exact same question! I have a print job that we only used another printer for b/c it was the object is too big for the ultimaker. That printer has since died, so i have to try and make it work on the ultimaker, which means printing it on its side. It's U shaped, so the entire inside of one side of the U is going to be scarred after printing, and I really don't want that. It's a 25 hour print job, so I'd like to get it right on the first pass if possible.

Nevermind. The printcore housing won't close all the way (the magnet won't engage) so I'm using the rubber bands to hold it closed so it doesn't fall open during a job and one of them got caught in the hole the pole goes through the carriage. Just means I need to figure out the housing problem sooner rather than later.

Not sure what to call this one. This is what I came into this morning after doing an all night project: This is actually a 2nd print job. It did it on a long job over night, so I reseated the bar on the black pieces on both sides and ensured it moved appropriate and then started this 30 minute job. Came back to check on it later and this is what I walked into. The bar (Y axis, i guess) has slid completely back past the belt that moves it back and forth. What causes this / where do I even start with trying to fix it? Just putting the bar back on the black pieces on the belt didn't do it, so there's got to be something else causing it.

weird. i swear that was out of stock last night. I looked specifically at matter hackers and a couple of other places. >_> thanks.

I'm in the US as well and went to the authorized resellers from the Ultimaker page. You got any links? The 0.8 and .25 I see everywhere, but not the 0.4. Thanks.

Just as the topic states. I'm short an AA 0.4 print core (had a filament mishap today that ruined our current core) and everywhere I've looked online they're out of stock. Is Ultimaker phasing this model out or is it temporary and I just have really poor timing?

I would if someone would like to send me a roll of it. ? The folks I'm working with have like 8 rolls of ABS they're wanting to use for this project. We have a list of about 50 objects that we need 4 each of, so they're not exactly looking to go buy all new material. We have *A* roll of PLA, but it's already spoken for in one of those objects. I suppose we could print what we needed from that roll next and then use what's left to print something tall... In the meantime, any other ideas as to what might actually be causing this specific problem?

Sorry. I tagged the topic and thought that was understood. ABS. Both Ultimaker "brand" and generic.

Just as the title suggests (I'm not sure what to call it). When we do longer jobs (taller jobs, really), we see this repeated bending up of layers that creates separations fairly regularly up multiple sides of our objects. We tried printing at a higher temperature (270 up from 255) and enclosing the U3E with a cardboard box to keep heat from escaping, but it's still happening, which leads me to believe that either lack of heat isn't the cause, or we haven't committed far enough, but I don't want to break anything by making it hotter. Does anyone even know what to call this so I can search more myself? I tried cracks and warping but didn't find anything about this particular issue.

knock on wood, but I think retraction limit / extrusion distance was the fix. It's 23 hours into the aforementioned 27+ hour job and hasn't borked yet, though I should probably go check again just because I'm posting this. >_< thanks for the help!

Thank you. For some reason I read "refraction" and not "retraction" so my searches were coming up empty. My bad. >_< Anyway, found the settings and am doing another run now. Will report back if that was it or if I still need halp. Thanks!

Thanks for these tips. I will try the half speed and investigate the retractions. It does seem odd that all the jobs I've tried (both, multiple times) all seem to show this behavior at about the same height of job, regardless of how big the job is. Can you tell me how to adjust the tension? The link I found showed every model up to the 3, but not the 3 or 3 ext. It looks like it's one notch above the middle, but I'm not sure who or what would have changed that. Also, in Cura I don't see anything to change retraction settings. I can turn it off completely ("Enable retraction" box is checked), but I don't see anything about extraction lines or w/e.

So this is probably the 6th time now I've tried to print a 20+ hour job and for various reasons, I can never get it to finish. (Improper spooling, print core jam, etc etc.) The latest problem that I can't figure out is that I watch it all day and it's printing fine. I come in the next morning and the printer is still whirring away, but the printcore is a solid 6 - 8 inches above the bed and no material is coming out. It looks like the printhead "thinks" its still printing by it's movement patterns (also evidenced by the fact that the bed has continued to move down), but it has long since stopped feeding material. In both cases so far there's no break in the material on the spool, no clogs in the printhead. If I immediately restart the job, it starts printing again with NO issue (albeit back at minute 1 of the 20+ hour job). Any ideas? Short of me camping out in front of the printer to monitor it for 20 hours straight?

Yeah, for the job I needed to get done that week, I ended up trying ABS with ABS support and it worked amazingly. Thank you for the response though! We're kinda stuck with the material we have on hand atm.

So this started with Lift Switch Issues and I think I ended up just finding a stop gap solution for that, but now I'm having more problems. Here's where things started: So now when I try to print, or seemingly randomly when it sends itself home, I'm getting LOTS of grinding noises once it gets to the corner and occassionally the printer faults to ultimaker.com/ER17 and my only option is turn power cycle the printer. I've tried everything on that page (both switches make the clicking sound, I can press either switch during the "home" action and it will no longer travel in the associated direction). The two things that I have done that aren't normal, are in the Limit Switch Test, I can't get the Y box to ever be checked. I previously got around this by offsetting Y by 0.4 to fix the Lift Switch problem (which is still set to 0.4 and it's the only way I can get the lift switch to raise and lower properly), but the box never checked in the Test, even after the offset. in the previous thread, both "end stops" and "set screws" were mentioned and I'm not sure how to look at either one. I briefly looked at the end of the workday today and the only screws I think I see on the axis rods are literally ON the rod, not on the end, but rotating around the side as the axis moves, but near the gear on each end. Is this what I'm supposed to tighten? I didn't have a bit that was small enough, but should be able to find one tomorrow. Let me know if there's any information I left out and thank you for any help you can provide!

So it's for scientific studies testing memory development in infants and toddlers. They have to meet pretty strict measurement requirements and have to withstand a couple hundred babies handling them, beating them around and such. The discussion was that PLA wouldn't withstand that over time, but ABS would. But we need specific shapes to make the tests work (they're simple 1, 2, 3 step tasks that give a pleasant outcome so the baby will want to do it again (ie put a ramp together in 2 pieces, slide the plane down the ramp and watch it go weeee)). There also might be something to said for babies putting ABS in their mouths. If I use CPE (can't remember if it's a roll of CPE or CPE+ that we have on hand) or Nylon, will the support work better with that? Thanks.

So then what do I use for support material when printing with ABS? The stuff we're printing is going to be heavily handled and beaten up by children so my understanding was that ABS was the way to go, but we're definitely printing shapes that need support. We have PLA, ABS and the PVA natural, dissolves-in-water type stuff that's meant for support.

Hey there. I got great help last time, so hopefully will do so again. ? I'm printing lots of stuff on ABS with PVA support and have noticed, particularly on jobs where i DO generate support, that stuff is already cracking. I can take pics if needed, but don't really know how else to explain it. It's a completely flat surface with a hairline fracture in it. And there are several like it on each side of the object. And then yesterday we were printing a plane for another project and as it was printing the support, the support was coming up off the bed as it got thicker, which then made that side of the tail curve upward when it should have been flat. Is there something special to using the PVA support and / or ABS? I'm selecting those materials from the menu when I load them. The PVA is ultimaker branded, but the ABS is an off brand but has been fine on jobs without support. Thanks.

ok, so it failed the Y limit test. I tried to do the XY calibration, but had problems printing out from the 2nd core (if I can't figure this out, I'll make another thread). Once that failed, I manually played with the Y offset and I *think* I have it working. I was able to do the switch test several times and it didn't fail once. I have it printing a job on 2 cores now, so fingers crossed. (Assuming the 2nd core not printing doesn't screw me up.) Thanks all!

Yeah, I see what it's SUPPOSED to do in the official video posted above. I don't see a limit switch test in Diagnostics. There's a "Limit Switch" option, but clicking on it just goes to a screen that says: "Limit Switch Test X: [ ] Y: [ ] Z: [X] <Return" And doing the wheel incessantly either direction doesn't give me any choices. Clicking return just returns to the Diag. menu. I even let it sit for a few minutes hoping it would just start whatever test it needed to do. HALP? I'm not disagreeing with you about the firmware, I'm just trying to suss out a cause since it didn't used to do this and now all of a sudden it almost never DOESN'T do it. =/

The metal bars, if off, are off by less than a half a millimeter. I measured from corner to pole on each side, and half a millimeter seems like it might be the difference, but that could also be noise in how I laid the ruler down. I also did a factory reset and this video was taken AFTER the factory reset. We DID recently update the firmware (4.3.3.20180529) and someone else noticed that they updated it about the same time this started failing. Is there anyway to roll back firmware?

I'm not sure what you mean by rods that go through the print head. Just not sure what I'm looking for here. Yes when I manually switch it or put it in the bay, it switches just fine. Like I said in the OP, it SOMETIMES go in the bay by itself and does the switching, but more often than not, it acts like it (goes to the far right, though not in the proper forward / back spot to be in the hole) and then does the motion like it knows it needs to change position. You might be onto to something with the position it's in when power cycled. Today when i went to print something, it worked just fine on the first attempt and every attempt it made yesterday as I printed three things, the last one of which I generated support for, so it would use the 2nd nozzle. It's possible that the switch was in the "wrong" position when powered down / up the last few times and that caused the problem with calibration, though that doesn't make sense either since you always raise it before you start the calibration... Yes, this is the process that's failing. 1:13 in the video above is when it goes wrong. I hit continue and it goes home (back left) and then proceeds to NOT go where I just told it it needed to go. It goes back to the far right side, but almost never (until yesterday) goes back to the proper position. Even after that, the calibration doesn't "stick" and it doesn't return to the same place at all when it tries to flick the switch. (Like I said above, yesterday everything worked as intended, but I wanted to at least reply to possibly figured out WHAT happened, to keep it from possibly doing something again.) What are the rods you both are referring to?

So I'm having trouble with the 2nd core printhead being down when it should be up and vice versa. I've noticed that the print heads are moving to the switching bay and moving like it should be flicking the switch, but it's literally missing the hole by about 1/8th of an inch most times. When I try to calibrate the lift switch, the switch is raised per the first step and then I move the printhead so the switch is in the hole in the bay and then press continue. The printer then attempt to flick the switch itself AND MISSES. Sometimes it's by 1/8th of an inch, but I've also had it go clear to the front of the right side and attempt the flicking motion. After a restart SOMETIMES it will do it right, but then when it goes to print, it "forgets" that position and fails again. I can get it to print if I manually flip the switch as necessary (haven't printed anything off of both cores yet, but concerned what will happen when I need to do that). Can go take a video if needed, but I think I explained it pretty well. ?