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NBull

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Everything posted by NBull

  1. Hej Gr5, I would actually like to see how your s5 prints a Benchy. Also you Smithy πŸ™‚ In general I would have liked to see more people join in. it's what 0.35 usd. and 2 hours for a Benchy. The s5 is sold as a Hige end PLA printer, it should be possible to print a Benchy on it. Whether it is a large format printer or not.
  2. Hi Framar, what version of Cura are you using? This is printed as 0.15 basic profile no changes to settings. I have tried to mimic you picture angles. Photos of 3d prints are a weird thing, somethings will not look as bad on photo and others will look worse then they are! I dont think the print in your picture is that bad, I have seen much worse come from a s5. I have a layer mismatch at the same spot on the hull as you. I think its more a combination of model angle and slicing settings, more then a layer shift. but yes its an inaccuracy. The ghosting in my opinion is more likely do to speed, then the cooling fans. The s5 needs to print dead slow to not ghost. The drooping in your windows are most likely do to to hige print tempter. it can also be because your fan is not working properly as you mentioned. so be sure that there are no filament stringing trapped in the fan's. Here are som more Photos of my print. sorry for the photo quality but im not at the studio today.
  3. I'm pretty happy with (PrimaSelect PVA+) Proes: it's fairly easy to dissolve in water, even cold water (room temperature). and its not so sensitive to ambient moist as some other brands. Does not string "relatively" reasonable layer bonding at low print tempters. Cons: Expensive compared to other pva brands. can get fragile/porous over time. "Don't think it will make a difference. But I only use the 2.85mm variant."
  4. The prices on RangeVision are from 10,000 - 20,000 USD (plus minus, depending on what country you live in) RangeVision Spectrum: 5,000 usd RangeVision Pro 2M: 15,000 usd RangeVision Pro 5M: 20,000 usd
  5. Well thanks for the update. Glad you found the solution πŸ™‚
  6. I mean template. It is a stl file that only contains a ΓΈ1 cm circle 1mm high. I load it togeter whit the "model" and then just drag/drop it on to the spot I wanna enhance, then use Cura's scaling to alter the size so it fits my purpose better. So the photo above is two files, the star shaped model and the round template plased on one of the corners so it overlap the model.
  7. Custom made support will probably always be the best solution. I agree that the two layer brim could probably be and good alternativ. But as it is now not possible in Cura. When I have a print that has a critical spot eg. a sharp point or the edge of a square. I have a circular template I put on the model to strength that spot whiteout doing custom support for the whole thing. I know it's not and option for a big complex model but for three or four critical points it works fine. don't know if this cued help you.
  8. Just wondering how often people do this? If not going for the one year mark. was it an idea to aiming for a "used" filament mark instead, and what could that be?
  9. I works for me when turning off "Brim Only on Outside" you must have some other settings overriding it. Try and upload it as a Cure Project.
  10. Any reason you don't use the wireclamps on the bowden?
  11. You can still have a clean core thats not good. I am not 100% on this, but i think its something whit the coading inside the core that can get damaged. it will still look clean but have to much resistance. If using standart Cura Profiles/ settings you shoulden have a problem whit the flow reatio. so don't worry about this. It is the same with PVA, 1/2 tension is most the time the best solution. If using off brand PVA there can be some differences. eg. I run a sligtly losser grip on PVA from Prima and a bit tighter on 3DE-filament. I think they run better this way, but they will still run whit out problems at 1/2 tension. If using an old PVA you can also lossen the tension a bit becors it get a bit more brital whit age, like people πŸ˜‰
  12. I agree with Smithy the center position is most the times the best position. if using a realy hard filament more tension is somtimes needed. and if using fragial PVA less. but yes 99% of the time stick to 1/2 tension. If you havn't don it already I would recommend opening the feeder and cleaning the inside. When the feeder have grinded the filament a couple of times a lot of debris can accumulate in the "box" and on the tooth wheel making it to slippery. ps. rember to losen the feeder befor opening, so the spring don't pop out πŸ™‚ You may aslo want to check if you can frealy push PLA through the core. the core can be clean but still have to much resistance. Also check the bowden tube. it might have a bend making to much resistance or be damaged on the inside. Take some filament and try pushing it through the tube to see if theres a spot whit more resistance. As Smithy mentioned it can also be your print settings, if trying to push too much filament out at to low a temperature.
  13. I would disconnect the bowden at the print head and some of the wire clips. so you can pull the bowden off the filament piece. then manually heat the printhead til the filament can be pulled out. Assuming theres still a bit of filament left over the print head when the bowden is removed. so you have something to pull on. (Disclaimer, its a long time since i have worked with the u2, so there might be a better way to do it)
  14. I deleted my comment. Changed my minde don't wanna get in to the discussion.
  15. From the picture I'm pretty sure it's you feeder that's grinding the filament til it breaks. as you also mention youself, its most likely that its your feeder tension thats to high. whats the posision at now? It can be other things too. If using a polybox there can be to mutch friktion for the feeder to pull the filament freely. try and print without, and see it it helps. There can be a small plug in the print head making too mutch resistance. try and make hot pull, cold pull til its clean. or change to another core. Your Pla and Pva can be moist, making it to soft. try and dry it. πŸ™‚
  16. When using a wider spool, that doesn't fit in the two grooves on the back holder. I would use an external hold like you do with the white spool. probably the best way to prevent this. If you "need" to use the back holder I would put som type of stop (clamp) on the back holder tube so that the spool cant move away from the printer if that makes sense. Note: When using two external holders you are better off crossing them on the back so that the spool on the left goes to the right feeder. this will help the filament sensor give more precise readings. do to the angle/direction of the filament.
  17. Okay good to know, thanks for the update. πŸ™‚
  18. Hej Waldo. Heres both a zipped and normal. Accuracy_04_Nozzle_v2_Z-hop.curaprofile Accuracy_04_Nozzle_v2_Z-hop.curaprofile.zip Edit: Removed () from Curaprofile name I don't know if this is your problem but sometimes when i download Cura projects or Curaprofiles from the forum. The file name get mixet up so it looks something like this. "1853372799_Accuracy04Nozzlev2_curaprofile.a6584862212dee6b33eded1a52152f48" If you remove the part from after curaprofile and alter the "_" in from of curaprofile to "." it will work, the numbers in front of Accuracy can also be removed. 1 hour and 20 minutes. it's not fast, but to me it would be an acceptable time for an object at this size. If I needed to do it faster, I would probably up the print speed from 30 to 40 and set layer height to 0.2 then it will be under and hour in print time.
  19. First print (on the left) I forgot to turn off the brim. that's why the text is smudge Second print (the on on the right) brim is off, and "combing mode" set to "not in skin" z hop when retracted is on. I have put up the pictures unaltered, not sure if the forum allows this big fil sizes if not Ill changes them. (Edit: It doesn't, it automatic down scales it) Hope you can use them.
  20. I also think this would be a great feature/option for the dual head Ultimaker printers. And not that impossible to implement, there might be a small deviation in in layer where the changes happens, but probably not more then what a spool changes will make. a sacrifice I personally wouldn't mind for the extra option.
  21. Hej FablabCardiff You can try this profile if you want, its my "default" profile for the s5. it's aimed for medium size prints so you might have to tweek it for bigger prints if you think it takes to long. But it is in general a slow printing profile. And as Smithy mentioned 60-65 mm/s is way to fast if you want a nice surface finish. I personally never go over 40 mm/s even on "fast" prints. locking at you pictures I think you also might need to check you axel alignment. Accuracy 0.4 Nozzle v2.curaprofile
  22. Hej waldo. Can you try and print your keychain from the other post with my Accuracy profile. "if you haven't sent it off to the reseller already" Its slow, but works pretty fairly on my S5, im off on weekend but ill take some studio photos of my print on monday then you can compare them 1:1 if you like. Accuracy 0.4 Nozzle v2.curaprofile
  23. PVA can get too dry, and will make it brittle. but I have not heard of a dessicant bag casing it. Thats more likely to happen when using a dehydrator or oven. Sunlight can also make it brittle btw. To save the spole, I don't know. best thing would probably be to stor it in a terrarium where you can monitor and adjust the humidity precisely. I would personally put it in a big air tight container 50-60L whit a humidity monitor and try to keep it at 20% just opening the lid to adjust if it goes below. or put som drops of water in the container if its way to low. My theory is that is better to raise the humidity slowly.
  24. Hej Roldy It's because the model is not optimised for 3D printing. There's a lot of fine details in the .stl that are not printed. eg. the walls under the hatch is to thin for Cura to print them. and this messes up the support. if you set the nozzle to 0.3 they will print and you will get the support. please note that theres still a lot of the other walls that ar not printed because they are to thin. I am not sure if theres a setting in Cura that will let you print everything thing whit a minimum 1 wall thickness. Edit: Sorry I didn't notice that you have the thin walls printing. are you upscaling the model? Can you try and save as a Cura project instead of the .3mf so I can see the settings.
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