NBull

Here's a link that answers a lot of your questions in depth. And at the bottom there's also a list of FDA approved materials https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-food-safe-3d-printing/

Do to the same problems mentioned by Geert. I would say it's where food impractical. Another solution may also be to make a vacuum pull over the 3D printed part. its not as heat heat-resistant but at 30-35c i think it will be okay.

Try and install the 5.1.8 from and USB if that doesn't work i don't know 😕 https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52601-update-the-firmware

What firmware are you on? have you done an update before or is it the one it was shipped with. when i first got my s5 the wifi was unreliable to say the least. so I dit an update using the ethernet (don't know if you have that possibility) but after that update it has worked since. ps. have you tried turning off and on the printer, might help.

Yes that's what i was looking for 😊 thank you.

Its hard to se on the picture. But is you ethernet on? if so then the wifi will be grayed out, but if you click it it will turn off the ethernet and connect to the wifi.

Btw. When it's not more, try and put the core back in the machine and slowly heat it. around 150c-175c you should be able to wipe it off with a cloth.

No one knows?

Yes that should be relatively easy to clean, and the print core is not that fragile, so it should not take any damage from it. (I have seen cores in a worse stade that worked well after a cleaning) Is it worth it, well that depends. If its a privet printer I would not hesitate to do it. if it's an company printer its probably cheaper to buy a new than to pay your time to clean it.

I would say it's worth it. and i would actually advise you to get a "professional" tool for it. (makes it easy and fast) By professional, I just mean something in metal with a built in heat source. they are not that expensive. But again I print a fair amount of big items (90% same fillement and colour) so my leftover on the spools is a significant part.

Hej i need some help with a funktion i forgot the name of. I cant find it when searching, don't know if its because i misunderstood the the funktion. But in Cura it's possible to set a small gab between layer start and stop, to help minimize the layer seam. But i have totally forgot what this setting is. Here's a picture with the setting showing.

Hi. I can't get your video to work! For the most part i also use Cura on Mac. And I will say that in general it's a bit more temperamental then Pc. I use 3.6 and to me it run without any problems "mostly" so cant say if 4.0 is worse. Ps. Do you use a Mac whit two graphics cards? (Macbook Pro) This will sometimes bug Cura.

This was caused by the Gradual Infill setting. and i have same problem on other models that else print perfect whit out this setting. I'm not 100% sure why it fails, but it tend to be in ariers where there are a certain amount of details on a small space. At theis areas the printer keep putting on to much material until the extruder had to dige a grove in the plastic. At this example there was so much excess material that it could reach the bottom of the extruder head. and tore apart the silicone cover. (Sorry I don't remember the Cura version, maybe it have been fixed.)

I would advise you to keep a close look on your printer when using "Gradual Infill" settings. this setting has caused my printer to fail badly more then ones. And one of the times it was close to do damage to the print head. I have had a good experience using Pla for all support settings (15% density) and only Pva on Support roof and floor setting. to give the Pva some more structure i set up the "support roof/floor thickness" to both 0.6mm. If you have problems whit the Pva sticking to the Pla try and increase the Pva tempter a few degrease.

Okay, thanks for the reply. I haven't had any need to adjust the printer. but if it was adjustable legs i could as well use them. do you know what they are. just asking of curiosity. 🙂

There are these two metal rods next to each front leg, is this adjustable legs? and if so, where can I adjust them. Is it the screw next to them. I can't find anything about it in the user manual.

I'm really not interestet in exchanging my aluminum plate for a glass plate. I bought my S5 with an aluminum plate, not and extra glass plate. Your own glorification and sales pitch fore this mashine had the aluminum plat as a key feature. and was highlighted as being better than glass. And now you just wanna downgrade it like its no big deal! And yes, one of the selling point for me on this machine was getting an alternative to glass. if you can't deliver the aluminum plate, give me a refund so I can look for an alternative third party product. (I pay for a gold watch but get one in plastic. whats the problem i can see the time on both.)

I can only see the model files and not the Cura profile! The pictures look a bit like some of my failed prints when "enable gradual infill" if its one, so try and turn it off, if on. This setting fucks up my S5 more then anything. (maybe it has changed in later Cura versions) And like mentioned before the print temperature looks way to hot. (dont know if there can be a setting overriding your custom set temperature?)

I normally just have a big bucket of water to dissolve the PVA. the water only gets replaced when to milky, so it's more or less always room tempter around 17-20ºC. so in my experience PVA will dissolve fin in way lower tempters. I speed up the proses by brushing of the PVA when it gets mucous. if it takes to long or are hard to remove I would say its probably more because the water is saturated, then because of the tempter. So if you are afraid to damage the PLA just let it sid longer in colder water and you should be fin. In general its only the parts with PVA that needed to be in water. But depending on the model and how the PVA support is, there can be some stringing caught between the PLA layers.

I dit have the same problem with my S5 at the start, meanly when I tried to send prints over wifi. I have newer gotten the wifi to work. So now its on a cable and i don't have any problmes. I don't know have the problem sould be related, but after instaling the cable its gone. Maby it was just a coincidence! (By the way, when I'm using a drybox / polybox I normaly take of the cardboard peice with the NFC and plase it on the normal spole holder to ensure it gets the signal)

It might be something in my settings thats of. but this is in TPU with 10% infill. It can bend but it's not rubbery like. And when bending it's more like a sharp angle bend, not a soft curve like one who expect from a rubber material. Stretching the ring also requires a great effort to deform it. it might be that i'm doing it wrong, i like the material for what it is, but i would not call rubber

I have done some prints in TPU 95A an I would not call it a robber more a flexible plastic. it is really hard especial for small prints. so if you are expecting to make a silicone like gasket this is far from. it's easy to use and prints well on the S5 though. In my experience the top have more imperfections then the bottom, so if possible i would print it against a PVA surface to get the smoothest result.

Well thank you for the answer 🙂 I didn't expect there to be much difference, but again some fillement is very temperature dependent. so maybe there could have ben an gain. Again it was just a thought.

I don't have an UM3 anymore so not sure, but I assumed they had the same mekanisme. At the UMs5 its only the right nozzle thats lowered and raised the left is stationery. so when active the right side nozzles sits a little lower then the left. around 2mm

(sorry if this is a dumb question) I was just wondering if there are some print setups where the right nozzle will have some benefits over the left. My thoughts where that maybe the extra distance from print tip to print head, could give some better airflow / better cooling or maybe less radiant heat. I know the difference is minimal. But will it be enough, to be noticeable under certain conditions.