kunitsa

Yes, color is important, but properties are more important. I am very surprised at the fact that Tough PLA Black and Tough PLA White may differ in their characteristics. May I ask, have you ever tried printing Tough PLA Red?

The guys who developed this project with the aircraft in the instructions for printing are advised to print it in a vertical position and without support, although I agree with you that it would be much safer to place the layers along the structure. One of my friends said that of all existing PLA filaments Ultimaker's PLA is the best. I do not know how it is. Dear friends, thank you for your advice.

My solution was to replace the TFM coupler and bowden tube. To be honest, I ended up completely replacing my native feeder with a Bondtech DDG. Something like this...

Dear Geert, Many thanks for your help. Finally, a few months later I corrected the problem thanks to your advice. Thank you so much Have a nice day :)

Dear friends, Good day to all. I want to ask a respected community for some advice. I have long taken up the project of printing a model of a "Kraga" radio-controlled aircraft. The case was progressing normally until it stalled in the production of wings. This should be fine work and I basically do not like print quality. I type on Ultimaker 2+, golden Pla / Pha filament from Colorfabb, 0% infill, no bottom and top. I combined various speed and temperature settings. The result is negative. The default Cura settings for Pla do not work either. Question 1: What settings (other than basic) can I try to print this part? Can someone also print this model? Question 2: During the retract, the priter stops long enough. Because of this, a flat dot is formed at the stop. This is very dirty print. How to avoid it? Question 3: Which one would you recommend for the best filament Pla, Ultimaker, Innofil, Colorfabb? Thank you very much

My U2+ is 1,2 years old and about 600 hours of printing time. I never changed the bowden tube.

Thank you very much. I already doubt that the printer can ideally print well. Can we still put the DDG extruder from Bondech instead of the native feeder to ensure the forced filing of the filament?

Dear Smithy, As for the feeder tention, I can honestly say that I have tried all the options of pressure, from strong to its complete lack. I use only ColorFabb and Ultimaker PLA filaments. This problem exists with any filament. Just in case I would like to show you a photo of TFT coupler. Thank you very much.

Dear Smithy, thank you very much for your reply. This is not a new photo but I made it a few month ago. There was the same probleme.

Dear Smithy, sorry for the trouble and for having to ask you again for help. Since our last communication, I did everything that you advised to determine the cause of the problem. I disassembled the extruder, cleared the nozzle by the atomic method. The TFM couple and bowden tube seem fine. After disassembling and cleaning the feeder, the result is the same: the printer grinds the filament arbitrarily, even on the first layer. I do not know what to think. I bought this printer instead of my previous BQ Hephestos 2 Prusa and it seemed like it should print out of the box. Maybe the solution would be to put a mechanism from DDG from Bondech for U2 +? I will be very grateful if you give me any other advice. Thank you in advance.

Thank you very much, Smithy! Now try to do all these things. Truth be told, the printer prints from time to time without problems. Could this dragging be somehow related to the print settings (retraction settings), or problem with improper heating of the extruder?

Hello dear friends. I really need in your help. My Ultimaker 2+ permanently grinds a filament! I've tried already many things to solve this problem: I played with feeder tension, with retraction settings with temperature settings. Nothing. I would be very grateful if you could advise me anything. Thank you in advance. V.