AndersK

Yes, I did it wrong and I stand corrected in shame 😉 Did another try this morning by cleaning the table and only applying tiny amounts of glue, compared to previously attempts, wiped with wet tissue. What a difference.... Thanks all for the other suggestions, I'll keep the other things in mind and will explore later.

I think you can see the IP adress through Cura monitor if you are connected to the printer

@gr5 , that's a great video. Well done. I've been on to most of the tips there but I think I've used too much glue. Will clean and redo tomorrow. And I do have a top cover and proper door to keep heat in.

Yes, have the same edge like feature on a part I struggle with at the moment (other issues). The geometry is smaller than the nozzle can produce accurately so it's filtered out. You can force it to be printed by enabling print tiny wall. I'm just a novice on this so please correct me if I got it wrong.

Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow. It is one part I'm printing, even though it looks like 4. I actually wanted to print 3 of these for a full bed. Need a bunch of them to test the concept (custom masking in a paint process) Just started a print were the hinges are moved to the flat face, wider and higher. Means building on a bed of support material. Will see the result tomorrow.

Looks like its solvent based, not allowed to bring it in here then... Yes, have door and top cover, cooling fan disabled. Just running a fan with HEPA filter but that one just circulate inside enclosure

Hi all I'm having difficulties printing a nylon part using Nexeo Novamid ID 1070 (production part will be PP but I dont have such wire) Main problem is to get it to stick to the bed. Have tried different print temp, bed temp, glue, without glue, different materials.... Rather thin compared to size which make me believe is the major concern, 160x50x1 mm Tried both brim, raft and without extra bed adhesion (brim size varying from 0 to 12mm) Tried bed temp varying from 60 to 115°C, the brim warps even before the geometry starts printing. The bed seems to heat up as it should Print temp from 230-280°C. Printing below 260° makes the circular details fall of, almost doesnt bond at all. High temp seems to burn the small hinges Printing in ABS gave good results but its too brittle for the hinges that has to be flexible Changed to Nexeo Novamid ID 1030 which gave better results when pushing the material at 200% for the first layer. Still some warping at one end and much more difficult to remove the brim Any suggestions?

The tube and power line want to get behind the fan and is pulled free by force when the head moves so I made a simple bracket today to help them stay clear. Seems to work fine so far.

Hi community. Anders from Sweden joining. Have been using 3D printing services since mid 90's and finally acquired a printer at work. Its an Ultimaker 3 extended and has been running hot for about 1,5 week now. Almost gone thru 3 rolls of wire and a first clog... So bad neither several hot nor cold pulls solved it. Had to take the head apart and clean it with a drill. Amazed of how easy it was to get started and produce decent prints. Here are some of the trial pieces (can't show the work related stuff though). Made a holder for the file set we clean prints with and some cable clips in nylon to tie the power cord to the vacuum hose on my saw.

When you export from inventor look at options , most likely it exports as centimeters even though your model is in mm. Was surprised to see this first time printing from inventor too.