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AndersK last won the day on August 24 2019

AndersK had the most liked content!

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3 Extended

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  1. It very much depend on the application. CF Nylon has better impact resistance which sometimes is more important than tensile strength. It's not as easy as just comparing data sheets. I have a very good example from a lever I designed. It had to endure 100 Nm bending and we chose a 30% GF PA that from both specs and FEA looked great. It held static load well but very easy to snap. Changed to another PA with less strength but higher flexibility and we just couldn't break it.
  2. Reinforced nylon has about 15% higher tensile strength but only about 25% elongation at break compared to 45% for regular nylon. Regular PETG has very similar mechanical properties as reinforced nylon. Haven't seen the data sheet for reinforced petg yet but it is strong and stiff. Have printed pressure vessels tested up to 5MPa without cracking and with very limited deformation. Carbon fiber also increase the temperature range and makes it less prone to warping. I was also pleased to find the carbon petg could be printed on glass without chipping it and very easy to remove.
  3. You might get away with no support under the ropes since it looks like a really small area. Conical support is found under experimental and gradual under support section. Hint, use the "search setting" Edit, might have misread your question. Both gradual and conical support is methods to reduce the amount of support material used, (and printing time at a small amount) by using less material at the bottom of the print and increasing it closer to he supported surfaces.
  4. Sorry, no experience printing them (hence not mentioning them). Hopefully others can chime in.
  5. Good point. Learned that, also the hard way, when starting with Nylon. The sound of frying bacon makes you hungry 😉 Currently Im lucky having about 30-35% humidity so should be ok. Also my material comes in vacuum sealed bags and it was fresh when I printed my parts. Next time I'll run two pieces and dry the material between prints to se if theres a difference.
  6. PETG rated to 75°C, easy to print PETG with carbon fibre: 90° easy to print Nylon: 110°C but very flexible and can be tricky. Sensitive to moisture and bed adhesion Nylon with carbon fibre: 110°C. Stiffer but not as stiff as PETG with carbon. Have a roll but not tried yet. I would choose PETG with carbon fibre myself.
  7. Set top thickness and infill density to 0. That will give you an open box with just bottom and walls. Layer settings and wall thickness is something you need to find out based on your requirements and printer quality. When I print concept models just for "show & tell" I ususally print with 0,3 layer height and 0,8 wall with 5-10 % infill. Models for use, like tools and parts for testing usually 0,1 mm layer height and 3 mm wall.
  8. Thank you. Continuous working temp is 110°C so hot water should be ok. Guess it will soften a fair bit so pressure need to be at moderate level.
  9. Yes Not the best finnish , still learning and trying settings for TPU.
  10. You can try and reduce distance between part and support roof. Go as close as you can without them fusing. Printing with cooling? If not override fan speed for the first layer above support can help.
  11. Yesterday I printed a sealing plate where the seal is tpu and the shell carbon fiber reinforced PETG. Pressure tested up to 5 MPa hydraulic pressure. I was surprised how well it worked. The PETG and TPU bonded really strong.
  12. Looks like youre holding red hot steel straight from the forge 👍😎
  13. That is most likely due to Cura not connected to the printer. Check under manager printers if it is listed or not
  14. Try and set Z seam alignment to random. That mean every layer won't start at the same position
  15. I get the same, or worse, on my um3. I am also very new to TPE but so far only thing I can do to prevent this is cleaning the nozzle before each print.
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