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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3 Extended

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  1. Might be on to something. First failed prints was Cura 4 Now printing with Cura 3,6 and I'm past the problem area.
  2. I found reducing flow rate for initial layer helps a lot. PETG is sticky and like to form blobs on the extruder which can pull the material off the plate sometimes. Your photo look like you might suffer from that. I'm setting flow rate to 80% on initial layer. Roughly same temp as you are and bed at 70°C, below that a bit of warping occurs.
  3. Can someone help me understand this please. Have 4 failed prints where the problem occurs roughly after 5 mm build height. Looks like it just doesnt feed the filament in the same rate as before. I thought I had a grinding problem stopping the feed but last fail looked ok on the wire. (been changing retraction parameters and infill to reduce retractions) Cura preview looks good too Nozzle isnt clogged, I can feed manually after a failed print and start a new print without doing anything, first 5 mm still works fine. Edit :Its like its keeping the flow rate from ironing the planar surface while moving upwards...
  4. Watching this topic. Had the same problem on my UM3, got clogged during several trials mid-print. Was using non UM material, today I started a new print with UM PVA to see if it helps.
  5. At the end of a roll each coil is about 0,3 m, I just count the remaining coils and estimate length from that.
  6. You could model the bottom of the cavity as a separate part and use Per Model Settings in Cura to specify top and bottom thickness larger than zero.
  7. If you have multiple identical buildings you can load one STL and then let cura multiply them. If you need to tag them and can't mark the model you could make a small plate with the marking load and place close to the model so their brim intersects. They will come out together if you lift them with some care. Or to make it really simple, take a screenshot of the layout in cura and mark. Then you can transfer markings as you take them off the bed.
  8. Tried a print over night with salt on the bed, what a difference it was. Stuck well during print and came off with ease when cool. The brim curled a bit at one spot but I might have used a lot more salt than mentioned. Thanks for the tip @geert_2
  9. Trust me @Smithy, they dont. (Not saying they all are the same though)
  10. Thought this would go in the bin... Increased temp and flow rate saved it, I think
  11. I think I'll try the salty mix. I run without cooling. Did the first prints on the Build-Tak today and it sticks like it was super glued, even when cooled down. Seemed little easier to pull off when hot though. Yet I put on more glue than normal.
  12. As I said, very easy to get off once cooled but large flakes of glass stuck to the print. Just like it chipped due to shrinking when cooling down. I did put on new glue and wet wiped it smooth between prints. New glass plate and a Build-Tak sheet is on route now.
  13. I have just recently started printing PETG and noticed the glass plate has started chipping badly. Is that related to the PETG or bound to happen after a while? I have about 1000 m printed on the bed in total and of that about 150 m PETG. I use a thin layer of glue on the plate and all prints with PETG have come off easily (let the bed cool to room temp)
  14. @cloakfiend With low density infill and low viscosity it could work, plaster might perhaps be difficult. There are openings in all directions in the gyroids.
  15. Did you enable support interface? By using a support roof you should get a lot better result than that. This is with 1mm support roof at 0,5 mm distance, bonds a bit but breaks away with some "persuasion"
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