AndersK
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3D Prints
Posts posted by AndersK
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3 hours ago, nallath said:
For us is the other way around; A forum is a horrible way to keep track
No need to keep track of forums, just a way to harvest ideas and level of interest. Then feed development in which ever way you want behind the scene.
Nuff said, won't hear it from me again
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I have written a similar request in Github too a long time ago, cant find it
I wish the feature request would be on this forum instead and a voting system so it would be more visible for the community and a way to show what the users really would like to see in the future.
I'm no programmer and find Github utterly cumbersome so I have given up trying to submit proposals
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Would PVDF be an option?
I was about to try it for a demanding application but never got there so cant tell how good it is.
Supposed to have excellent chemical and wear resistance but I have not compared properties with CPE
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I said the quality might be bad 😉
Yes youre right, the option is there but it doesnt generate a mesh.
It would be possible though , all information needed is in the code.
Triangulate between the layers and top bottom in that DXF and its there.
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Yes, you can open the g-code in Cura and then File-Export to STL
No idea of export quality though
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Nice catch @Smithy
As on other forums, non active users should be blocked from advertising here.-
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Working great with PEI but with the standard Build-Tak surface the hot nozzle digs in during levelling on an Ultimaker.
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Yes they can indeed be very nice looking.
This is from today, just a simple router template so not necessary to be pretty but I do like the texture. Just like it came from an etched injection moulding tool
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Did you try squishing a bit more yet?
Had to fiddle a bit with that on the Prusa textured plate to get the texture at full.
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Anybody know if just the sheet can be bought without the magnetic base?
Already have Build-Tak magnetic plate so just the sheet needed.
Not looked recently but I don't think Build-Tak has the textured sheet.
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There is FDA compliant Nylon available with a working temp of 110°C.
Even if the material itself is compliant doesnt automatically mean the final print is but it should be able to sterilize both with steam and UV
As said, surface finnish is crucial. Shotblasting with glass beads, buffing, cleaning and coating with epoxi is one way of getting smooth surfaces.
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Sweet, and I said that looks like a serious gamer at the first photo 😄
Gonna take a while to print all panels for a complete F18 but you'll have fun doing it 😉
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Better buckle up, that chair looks like it will go super sonic anytime soon 🙂
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Like this?
About 10 minutes in Design Spark Mechanical (freeware).
Its a close fit so you might want to scale down a little or be prepared to sand it 😉
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I have used Ultimakers for about 4 years and never had a need to adjust z offset
I have other machines where it is necessary (not done in the slicer though) but I do believe the auto calibration actually works for the Ultimakers.
For those who need to fiddle with it, the plugin is right there for it.
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You might have an issue with the front fan to begin with, thats likely to cause this bulge.
Heat up the core to max temp and let it sit until you can pull it out.
If that fails try to cut off the remains as close to the core as possible or take the head apart (top lid)
I've had filament break between the bowden and core and been forced to that to get the core out.
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Yes, the glass is always larger than print area to avoid what you just had to do🙂
Using a larger plate removes need for perfect alignment
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I bought my first Build Tak from them, too small (for UM3).
I was under the impression I mixed up build volume with build plate size which of course isnt the same.
Reading this and seing the build volume of an Ultimaker 2 is 223 x 220 x 205 mm its probably them misleading us 😄
Measure the glass plate and go for a larger one.
Check out Build Tak, they have sizes better matching the Ultimakers (at least for the UM3)
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I dont have the CC core but if printer doesnt like it you could re-configure it to look like a standard AA core.
Scroll down a bit in this thread:
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Does the infill quality look the same before top layers start?
Pictures and perhaps the different project files would probably help get more help
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Could be tiny machine differencies giving different quality of the infill.
The Gyroids cause a lot of movements during print which PETG dont like. I found I had to reduce the infill speed almost down to wall speed to get a good quality infill with Gyroids and PETG.
If your firmware supports it, try ARC Welder plug-in. Reduces the G-code a lot when using Gyroids and could increase the quality since you will get a smoother movement.
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PETG is my go-to material for use in a workshop environment
Good compromise between cost-easy to print-performance
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Going from 5.2.11 to 5.2.17 has solved my issues.
However material profiles I had created for PETG couldnt be used after the firmware update.
Updating Cura from 4.7 to 4.10 resolved it though
I can't make clean holes when slicing with cura
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Look in your cad model tree if there are any surfaces left after you cut the holes.
Delete those and export STL again.
Seen this before causing same issues but from other cad