[Petg Glass plate damage]

Hi  geert-2 , The Titanium is a sandblasted type finish, the spacer idea under the clips would work, I might give that a try if the weight becomes an issue.

I haven't tried to print anything anything directly on the plate I will try some PLA and see how it goes.

 

Mike

 

 

[Petg Glass plate damage]

I chose titanium because it is tough, temp stable, doesnt rust, it has a much harder surface than aluminium so unlikely to be damaged when my scraper is used.

so I thought I would probably only need to buy 2 plates for the life of the printer where as with the glass plates its a continuous problem, the cost was around £90.00 per plate. the plates were laser cut so i had to smooth the sides and corners before use.

Titanium is a lot lighter than steel and I was trying to not add too much weight to the bed as the springs under it are not that strong especially at the back where half of the weight of the plate is held up by a single spring on the end, the plates weighed  800g compared to 560g for the original plate, I could have tried a 2mm thickness which would have been around 530g and reworked the clips but i wanted the option of using the glass for some materials.

the other advantage is that when you remove a plate from the printer it would be impossible to break it through dropping or accidental rough handling or temperature shock.

Being metal the heat from the heated bed is conducted more efficiently to the surface.

Considering the £3000 price tag for the printer I am less concerned about the £180 to improve the usability of it.

[Petg Glass plate damage]

I have printed with PETG many times with different printers and it is one of my favourite materials  I currently use an Ultimaker 3.

 

The glass flake problem was a constant problem so recently i had a metal supplier make me some 3mm thick titanium plates the same size as the glass plates and i print on them instead, i use Dimafix on the plate and when i need to release I lift up  with a thin spatula when cold, it can also help to  pour a little water on the plate to soften the Dimafix.

 

Top Tip! -  I have also found that as Dimafix is water soluble  I just add a few drops of water to the plate and use a plastic "puck" to smear the melted goo back around the plate, it is then good to go and this can be repeated for quite a few prints before adding another squirt of  Dimafix, this works for Petg and many other materials but not all as I think some respond to the matt finish of the sprayed product but give it a try!.

 

Mike

[is Ultimaker 3 no longer supported?]

I noticed in CURA 4.91 one of the headline changes was the addition of PETG to the platform, it doesn't point out that this is only for the latest S line of printers, it seems that the Ultimaker 3 either  isn't capable of this feat of engineering or that Ultimaker has thrown users of its previous flagship product under the bus.

If ultimkers is not willing to ssupport its products then i dont see a reason to upgrade in future with ultimaker products, they are cost wise at the high end of the spectrum and for that investment you expect better support for the life of that product.