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Smithy

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Posts posted by Smithy

  1. Wenn du Hilfe oder Tipps erwartest, dann wäre es gut wenn du uns mehr Infos gibst. Am besten das Cura Projekt als Projekt speichern und hier uploaden.

     

    Welchen Drucker du benutzt wäre auch noch hilfreich.

  2. As already said, I don't know why there is no developer mode with SSH connection, but SSH was enabled in the very first pre-release firmware, so I guess it is just deactivated. 

     

    Just an idea if someone wants to tinker and try it on their own risk. The built in Onion board has a serial connector and they offer an "expansion dock" with a USB to serial. So if you buy such an expansion board you should be able to connect to the console of the Onion. Then you could just do want you want or enable the SSH daemon. 

     

    Not sure if it really works, but I read the docs of the Onion board some months ago and thought oh, this could be a possibility to get OS access again, but I never tried it. 

     

    Keep also in mind that the Onion board has very limited resources, not comparable with a Pi. So I don't think there are enough resources to install additional packages, like the mjpeg streamer or something else.

    • Like 1
  3. I had the same issues, damaged some glass plates and did several tests with different adhesion agents. UHU Stick was the best and I now always apply a thicker layer to have enough protection.

     

    You can try to use the Z-offset plugin and move the nozzle away from the glass a little bit. This decreases adhesion, but be careful that you don't use too much that your object still sticks to the bed.

  4. 21 minutes ago, friedl_basson said:

    I have no idea that 60mm is too fast of 0.4mm nozzle?

    It is not too fast, but quality decreases with higher speed and you could get some side effects like the rumbling.

     

    22 minutes ago, friedl_basson said:

    Looking to upgrade to UM3 or S3 soon, so maybe it will improve things a bit 🙂 

    hmm, not speed wise. I print max 30 or 40mm/s with the dual head printers otherwise dimension accuracy and ringing is too bad, because the head is much heavier.

  5. It looks like, that you are printing too hot, too fast or if you have some over-extrusion. So you have more material on the top of the last layer and that is the rumbling noise when the nozzle travels over it. I have it too sometimes, especially with bigger infill areas, but I don't care about it.

     

    So if you are happy with the result, I would not change anything just to get rid of the noise. 

  6. If a specific nozzle size is available or not, depends on your printer profile. The one who created the profile just configured nozzles up to 1mm but not more.

    But you can also just set the line width to 1.2 which should do the same, regardless of the selected nozzle size from the drop down.

  7. I find it somehow amusing that we push kilos of plastic through the nozzle to print our parts, but packaging or a spool that is too thick bothers us.

     

    However, the market has suitable solutions for everyone. There are filaments with cardboard spools or there is loose filament that you can wind yourself onto the material of your choice. Thus, everyone can choose the right one for himself.

  8. 4 hours ago, friedl_basson said:

    I am looking at Fillamentum range as we 'speak'.  They seem to have a large range of aesthetically pleasing filaments in 2.85mm and different materials (ASA, ABS, CPE, PLA).

    I printed PLA and ASA from Fillamentum and it is great. PLA has some nice colors and prints like Colorfabb filament, only much cheaper. So I can recommend it.

  9. 1 hour ago, friedl_basson said:

    I will have to heat up the room I suppose.

    Yes when it is really so cold then this is the better choice. I guess just covering the printer could work, but then you get maybe other problems when the difference between "outside" and "inside" the printer too high.

    • Like 1
  10. Personally I don't like CPE or even more worse I hate it 🙂 

    But luckily I don't have really the need to use it, I print in PLA for every day models, I print with ToughPLA for technical parts or parts which needs to be stronger (I really like ToughPLA). If I also need more heat resistance then I print in UM ABS, which prints very good for an ABS material. If I need a part for outside, sitting in the sun, then I print with ASA.

     

    I only use CPE if I need the chemical resistance, for example I printed some parts for the pool which sits all the time under water.

     

    I tried several brands of PETG with different settings, but never got a good result, so I avoid it when ever it is possible and honestly I also have nearly no need for it.

  11. I am not 100% sure but the problem with the mouse pointer, was fixed in one of the latest Cura versions, but I guess the fix was not merged yet into the Arachne branch. 

     

    Always keep in mind that the Arachne is BETA and even if it is working well for most people it is still an early beta version. I am sure all the fixes in the official Cura branch will be merged to Arachne before the release or in one of the next beta versions.

  12. You mean the difference between an UM2 and UM3?

     

    Thats "normal" when you print with default settings. Use the engineering profile for the UM3 and you will get better dimensional accuracy. The reason is, that the print head is heavier in the UM3 and therefore you need some different speed settings.

  13. Hi Karla

     

    The problem is the M1 Chip of your device. Cura is currently not compatible 100% with the M1. I have the same issue on a MacBook and iMac both M1. The older Intel Macs are working fine.

     

    As far as I understood, the root cause it not Cura itself but a library which is itself not ready for M1. And updating to the last version would break compatibility with older Mac OS versions.

     

    But the developers are aware of the issue and I am sure they find a solution.

    • Like 1
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