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Smithy

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Everything posted by Smithy

  1. Na das klingt ja wirklich nach eine Kombination aus fast allem 🙂 Aber das Druckbild ist nun sehr sauber, könnte man neidisch werden...
  2. @Stefania Dinea Can you please check the diameter of the holes in your design. Should they have 9, 9.5 or 10mm ? And one more hint: Don't bring a drilling machine, use something like that to drill the holes manually, otherwise you would melt the holes.
  3. Danke für dir Rückmeldung und schön, dass er nun wieder brav druckt. Wäre aber interesant gewesen, was es nun wirklich war, aber egal.
  4. That wasn't my intention either. And that it doesn't matter with glue is just a guess from me, I didn't test it.
  5. It was a good decision, with separate pins you have much more possibilities if something doesn't fit on the day of putting all together. But to be on the safe side, bring some sandpaper (~200) and a 9.5mm and 10mm drill with you. So you can adjust pins and holes in case something doesn't fit. And some tapes, in case a hole is too big, that you can make the pin thicker. Must be really funny to build this pavilion together and I guess, logistic is half the work 🙂
  6. You are right, Edition II has the holes already in the base. 🙂 Never noticed that, because I feed currently from the top with this box. The other one is the older version with the holes in the cover. I should exchange my two boxes, then everything is fine without the need to drill additional holes. 🙂
  7. Thanks for the clarification, sounds good and I should give it a try. Never thought that the Bowden tube will fit there at the bottom of the feeder. But only when the Polybox is "connected" to the feeder you have a closed system.
  8. BTW your spacer can also be used to make some additional holes to feed the filament from the bottom and not from the top case. The Polybox has all openings in the top case, so when you lift the case you have to fiddle with the filament. So it is better to feed the filament through a hole in the bottom part, but if you don't want to drill your Polybox you can now drill it in the spacer. Another great use-case.
  9. Hi and welcome aboard! Thanks for sharing your spacer, a very good idea. Personally, I haven't such a big spool yet, but who knows 🙂 Have you connected your tube somehow to the S5 feeder or do you use just a short piece for the Polybox itself? I am not sure if I should use the tube or not, because it is hard to design something for the S5 feeder to connect it at the bottom. Can you post a picture of your setup?
  10. You are right, for sure it depends on the material. But I was confused, I expected much more time savings, a part with 0.8 took 4h and the same part with 0.4 4h20. But due to the fact that both are printed with 0.2 layer height, the saving is not so big. I claimed now 27 parts totally, and it will be funny to print all the pins for the parts - like a mass production 🙂
  11. I don't think it is necessary, if you leave the spools in the box then nothing should happen and no need try extra dry them. If the spools have already absorbed too much moisture, then I would dry them in a food dryer or oven. I have no idea what heat a reptile pad can create, but sometimes you need 60-80° C to dry a spool and I am not sure if the bearings and the relatively thin plastic of the Polybox like so much heat for several hours.
  12. I think it's only gonna make a difference if you print right on the glass. With glue or spray, it won't make any difference.
  13. Ja stimmt, und damit wäre das Problem vom Tisch.
  14. Horizontal Expansion is for all x & y dimensions, so if you enter here a negative value also the outer dimensions will be reduced not only the holes.
  15. Short update about printability: The 0.8 print core is not a good idea, the overhangs get terrible with the 0.8 core, so I switched now to the 0.4 and it is a big difference. Print time is nearly the same, just a few minutes more. I also recommend 8-10% infill to support the holes better and print slower than 70mm/sec. Clearances of the holes and pins are very good, no problems to insert the pins. They are quite loose, so no press fit - just as information, I don't know if this is the expected behavior. And now, back to printing 🙂
  16. But you can try coasting, I just said turn it off to be sure it is coasting which causes the gap in layer view. Coasting stops extrusion right before the layer is finished and the rest is printed with the remaining pressure in the nozzle. So it basically a good feature, but it is not working for all objects, so you have to give it a try if you want.
  17. Check if you have Coasting enabled in Cura - if so turn it off.
  18. Das Horror-Szenario! Ist mir zum Glück noch nicht passiert, immer dann wenn sich ein Bauteil gelöst hat, war ich gerade zuhause und konnte rechtzeitig stoppen. Aber man sieht ja auf diversen Fotos was das anstellen kann. Ein eingegossener Print Core 🙂
  19. Great work, thanks a lot! I will definitely try it. But your script should also be available via the Cura Marketplace. You have to check how to make it available there, I think you find the infos on Github or @ahoeben can give you a hint.
  20. Freut mich, dass es geklappt hat und Danke für dein Feedback.
  21. Glad that it is working for you - thanks for your feedback and happy printing 🙂
  22. Sorry, aber so solltest du das nicht machen. Richtig wäre die Bowden Tube am Druckkopf zu entfernen und den Hot/Cold Pull direkt am Druckkopf machen. Wenn der Propfen zu dick ist, bleibt dir das ganze in deiner Bowden Tube stecken. Ausserdem hat viel mehr Gefühl beim rausziehen weil du einfach nur gerade nach oben ziehen musst.
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