Smithy

Adhesion should work with glue, if not, then maybe your glass is greasy? Clean it carefully with alcohol and then try again and make some stripes with the glue stick and distribute it with a wet tissue. Another idea is, that your print bed is not leveled correctly. Have you enabled auto leveling? If the distance between your nozzle and the glass is too big, then you get also a bad adhesion.

CSI 3D Druck 🙂

First part finished a few minutes ago, and it was ok. But I placed the part to the side, that it is not too high because I want to avoid a brim if possible. But putting the object on the side is not possible with all objects, so I have to use a brim anyway. I am printing currently with my S5, so I don't have to take care about how I place the model on the build plate, and I use similar settings you have attached in the project folder and I use also the 0.8 print core. Yeah, tolerances could be a problem with so many different printers. You should take some sanding paper and a drilling machine with you when you start combining the objects 🙂 But I will make sure, that my pins fit into the parts. Usually, I have to drill the hole a little bit, but depends how much clearance you have designed. Let's see, currently, I have no pin printed yet.

Hi you cannot control how this "hill" is printed, but you can turn it off completely. Look for a setting called "Prime Blob" (which is the "hill") and turn it off. Usually, a prime blob works quite well, but you should also put some glue or whatever adhesion helper you use also to this corner that the blob also adheres well to the glass. I have it always enabled and have rare problems with it.

Hi and welcome aboard! A thin layer of glue should be enough for the breakaway support. I usually use a wet tissue to distribute the glue after applying it. This gives you a very thin layer over the whole plate or area you need.

You layer bonding is very bad, so I guess you print too cold and/or too fast. Slow down your print speed (try 30 or 40mm/sec), and try increasing the print temperature 5-10° C. Because you are printing with the 0.8 print core you need more flow, and if you now also print too fast, you have to adjust your print temperature that the nozzle can melt the material faster. Additionally, keep your environment temperature warm. Even if you have the glass doors, if the room is too cold, the cold air gets also inside the printer and could cause such issues. You can also try to cover the top of the printer with a big towel or something like that.

Unfortunately, holes are always too small, especially horizontal ones. This is because the filament inside the hole can expand more. You have to think of it as a rubber ring that shrinks a bit when it cools down. There are also no usable settings to prevent this, because all settings in Cura that refer to the dimensions would not only change the hole but the whole object. Therefore there are only 2 possibilities, either draw the hole bigger in the CAD design or drill it afterward.

Wenn das Material PLA ist, dann sind die Default Einstellungen vom Lüfter mit 100% schon ok, ich drucke PLA immer mit 100% ohne Probleme. Für mich schaut das nach Underextrusion aus, also entweder Düse verstopft, Bowden Tube schon alt, PTFE Coupler alt und gehört getauscht oder eine Kombination von allem. Wenn die Filament Spule schon dem Ende zugeht, dann ist die Reibung auch im einiges höher, weil das Filament stärker gebogen ist. Vorausgesetzt, Temperatur etc. passt alles.

The pieces have a "strange" geometry and I am not sure how I should place them on the build plate. Because of the height and the small base, I am not sure, that the part will not be kicked off in the higher layers. Lay them flat on the build plate is also not possible, because the part is slightly concave. Let's see, but it is not a quick and dirty job what I have seen. But I haven't tried to print them, just sliced some parts yesterday. One more question: Do you really need 4 pins for every part? I am asking because most of my parts just have 2 holes, or are the other pins just a spare part?

Yes, that's a good idea and would help sometimes when you want to store some notes to our project file.

Ok, then the problem must be somewhere around your feeder or the spool holder. I don't believe that both feeders have a problem, so maybe your filament was tangled somehow? Do you use the spool holder on the back and do you use also the filament guide? And do you have disabled the filament sensor? Because normally your printer should pause the print if the filament cannot be transported as needed.

Great, I hope I can find some time soon, to dive into such prints too.

To the best of my knowledge, there's no way

Hallo Freut mich, dass es nun klappt und Danke fürs Feedback!

To check if really everything is fine with your nozzles, heat up the print cores, open the lever on the feeder and load the filament manually. Then push gently the filament forward to extrude some material. If it works, you have a problem with the feeder, if not, you should check the Bowden tube and the print cores again.

Davon gehe ich jetzt auch einmal aus 🙂

Theoretisch ja, wobei ich noch nicht gehört hätte, dass die jemand tauschen musste. Wenn du alles andere schon geprüft hast, habe ich momentan auch keine weiteren guten Ideen.

Yes, you can, because I claimed now 10 pieces and got an email with the information, that I can claim more if I have time to print. So feel free to start with one piece. @Stefania Dinea: Should I print the 10 pieces in different colors, or do you think it doesn't matter for the number of total pieces?

Ok, 93 days to go, but we can achieve the goal 🙂 I am on board and print some parts - I really like the idea!

Great project and a lot of work. When is the meetup, I could not find a date? Maybe I will contribute and print some parts 🙂

Du könntest kontrollieren, ob deine Riemen gut gespannt sind und Zahnräder fest auf den Achsen sitzen. Das Problem dürfte sein, dass sich durch die Bohrung eine Richtungsänderung ergibt und wenn du da irgendwo ein kleines Spiel drinnen hast, dann schaut das so aus, weil der Druckkopf dann leicht versetzt in die Gegenrichtung läuft. Das würde auch erklären warum es langsamer gedruckt besser wird und warum es nur dort auftritt wo Bohrungen sind. Ich hatte einmal ein ähnliches Problem, welches ich aber nicht ganz wegbekommen habe obwohl alles gespannt ist. Ich konnte auch keinen Unterschied zwischen S3D und Cura feststellen, allerdings war mein Problem damals nicht so stark ausgeprägt wie deines und ich habe es dann letztendlich auf das Modell geschoben und hatte danach auch keine weiteren Beobachtungen in dieser Art.

You are right, I also didn't realize it - shame on me 🙂

To be honest, it is well hidden 🙂

Hey, that's cool 🙂

Most resellers don't have all parts in their webshop (except @fbrc8-erin which has tons of parts listed) but they still have the parts in stock or can order them for you.