Smithy

Your Ultimaker reseller should have them or if not can order them for you. Check the Ultimaker site, for the nearest reseller in your area.

It is already possible, you set the infill to 8% and then you have to make an additional part (design a simple cube somewhere) and put this cube (or any other shape you need) onto the build plate. Position these object to overlap your part you want to have 100% infill and then select from the left menu "Per model setting" -> "Modify setting for infill of other models" and choose the setting you want. This helper part will not print, it is just to change parameters where it overlaps with your main model.

Oder andere Möglichkeit, wenn wir davon ausgehen, dass die Höhe der Löcher passt und sie in der Breite zu klein sind, dass die Riemen nachgespannt werden müssen bzw. eventuell ein Pulley (das Zahnrad wo der Zahnriemen darauf läuft - wie sagt man auf Deutsch dazu?) gelockert hat.

Ich vermute eine verschmutzte Z- Schraube. Diese sollte regelmäßig gereinigt und mit der mitgelieferten Fett-Tube leicht gefettet werden.

Do you have a specific problem, then give us some more information. Otherwise, if it is a general question, there are tons of possibilities which could affect the print quality.

It depends on your needs, colorFabb PLA/PHA is like normal PLA, ToughPLA is stronger, like ABS, but with the drawback that it has the same heat resistance as PLA. If you print parts which don't need to be strong, go with normal PLA, if you print functional parts use ToughPLA. Keep also in mind that ToughPLA is only available in a few colors from UM. But you can also check out PolyMax PLA, which is a similar material and available in more colors. UM ToughPLA has been experiencing a supply bottleneck for months, so consider that, it can be hard to get new spools, especially the white and black.

I have both printers and I couldn't tell which one was quieter. The S5 isn't any louder than the UM3, but I can't tell if it's even quieter. In general, the S5 is a great printer, and I really like it. Apart from the specifications and the differences you already know, I couldn't say what's so special about the S5, but I now prefer to print with the S5 rather than the UM3. The build room is great and you have a lot of space. I also have the feeling that the multipoint leveling makes the objects stick better to the glass plate and you get a more perfect first layer. Let me know if you have any other specific questions.

No, all plugins currently available are free of charge.

The place where you can install plugins...

They mean it is printable at such high speeds, but the print speed depends also on a lot of other things. The UM3 and S5 with their bigger and heavier print head will never print as fast as the UM2 for example. If you use such high speed on the S5 you will get a lot of ringing due to the vibrations when the head changes the direction. Additionally, to get a high flow you also have the increase the print temperature, especially if you use the 0.8 print core. So, one issue is, the flow with the material, temperature, nozzle size, and the other issue is the mechanical part, such as the weight of the print head, vibrations and other things in this direction. So just using a material like the Pro1 solves not all issues. Btw, the Pro1 White filament is not a real white. It is more a shiny pearl white - so keep this in mind if you are looking for a "normal" white.

I cannot say if there is a red line, but I am sure there is. But try increasing by 10mm/sec and check the results. It also depends on the model itself, so if you do now some testing it must not be same with another model, another shape and so on. And most important it depends on the material, nozzle size, and layer height because this is the factor how much material must be extruded. If you print faster, with a big nozzle like 0.8 and fat layer heights, you need more material and therefore you also have to increase the print temperature to melt enough filament in time. So it is not just playing with speeds you have to take a lot more settings into account.

It is hard to say or to give you a specific value because with higher speeds you always get less quality and less dimensional accuracy. So you have to decide which accuracy or surface quality is good enough for your prints. I am sure you can print a lot faster than the default profiles, but then you have to accept some drawbacks. How much of these drawbacks are acceptable is up to you. If you want faster prints, I would choose a smaller object, and print this object with different speeds, then check the results. It is important to set all speeds (inner, outer walls, infill, etc.) to the same value, that gives you better results than different speed values.

It is not only to wipe the nozzle, but it also purges the nozzle after standby that you have a good flow.

Warum ist dir das so wichtig, wenn der Lüfter bei dir eh auch nicht läuft? Stromsparen oder hat es andere Gründe?

Ahh Danke, wusste ich nicht. Mein UM2Go ist still und leise wenn er nicht arbeiten muss, daher dachte ich dass es auch beim UM2 so ist.

You can use ToughPLA which is quite stronger than normal PLA but still easy to print. I guess the best material for screws would by Nylon.

Ein Foto sagt mehr als tausend Worte 🙂 Aber wenn du ein Wirrwarr von Filament auf deinem Drucktisch hast, dann hat sich meist das Bauteil von der Platte gelöst und das Filament druckt jetzt dann in die Luft.

It seems you have a problem with your nozzle and/or Bowden tube. So do some hot/cold pulls to clean your print core, or try to use another print core to see if there are any differences. Additionally depending on how old your Bowden tube is and how much you print with abrasive materials you should also replace the Bowden tube. UM recommends to replace it every year. The third option is, that your feeder gears are worn, but that is only the case when you have printed abrasive materials. But I guess your nozzle is clogged and therefore then filament cannot be extruded as it should and you get under extrusion on your prints.

Es ist immer der letzte Parameter oder die letzte Möglichkeit 🙂 Danke fürs Feedback!

Nein musst du nicht jedesmal neu einstellen. Ist wie jede andere Konfiguration die du am Drucker machst. Mit der Tinkergnome Firmware hast alle Möglichkeiten bzgl. Licht und Display.

Thanks, Geert for pointing this out. Yes, you are right, I didn't think about weather conditions and humidity. I have round about 22° C and 40% humidity currently. I will give the salt method a try next time I print with ToughPLA and come back with the results.

Hallo Gerald, Du musst das Objekt vorher slicen (auf Vorbereiten klicken) dann kannst du die Schichten auch in der Layer Ansicht sehen. Erst durch das Slicen werden die einzelnen Schichten berechnet um dann dargestellt werden zu können. Jedes mal, wenn du eine Einstellung änderst, musst du wieder auf Vorbereiten klicken, weil dann neu berechnet werden muss.

Versuche einmal die aktuelle Cura Version 3.6, wobei mir dieses Verhalten bei 3.4.1 auch nicht aufgefallen wäre.

The purpose of the prime tower is to also to wipe your nozzle, that's the reason why you have the zits now on the prime tower. The location of the zits depends on the travel moves, so they can be everywhere, not always at the same place. The drawback of the prime tower is, that you waste some material, that's right. It is also not the best idea to keep the tower as small as possible. If you print higher models, the chance that the tower will fall down is very high. So usually you define a bigger diameter for the tower to keep the risk as low as possible. Normally the tower has no infill, it is hollow. But maybe due to the small size and the setting "Prime tower minimum Volume" it looks like an infill. Because this setting says, extrude this minimum volume per layer, to purge enough material. You don't need always a prime tower if you print with dual cores. Some users don't use the prime tower, only when using dual colors and not with PVA. But it depends on the model, so in your initial case, it was important to use it.

It would be better to print it horizontally, but in case of a screw, you can only print it with PVA, which makes no sense. I am not sure, but I think there is a difference if you say 100% infill, or increase the wall count to a high number that you also get 100% infill. The pattern is different because then only walls are printed. Give it a try.