Smithy

Thanks for the feedback @aheu

I would try to put the print core back to the printer, heat it up and then try if you push the filament manually through from above. If it is not working, try with a very fine, small needle if you can push in from the nozzle size. Disassembling the head is dangerous because it is very fragile and break easily, but you can try it as a last chance because otherwise, you will need a new print head anyway. Here is a good video from @gr5 about how you should the disassembling:

Was es auch noch gibt, allerdings nicht für ToughPLA, ist von Polymaker diese Smoothbox, da wird spezielles PLA (PolySmooth) mit Isopropanol Alkohol bedampft. Ist das relativ teuer das ganze und du bist an das spezielle Filament gebunden. Die Epoxy Lösung geht auch, aber dann wird die Oberfläche sehr glänzend und du tragst halt eine relativ dicke Schicht zusätzlich auf, die alle Unebenheiten kaschiert. Ich meine auch irgendwo gelesen zu haben, dass es mit Chloroform geht, vielleicht ist das eh das Trihexa was Digibike gemeint hat. Aber mit Betäubungsmitteln würde ich nicht hantieren wollen 🙂

You must also check which extruder should print the object like that:

Try carefully with a heat gun to soften the plastic to get it off. It is not easy and takes time, but others had success with it.

1. Nein 2. 400er, 800er Nassschleifpapier 🙂 Nein im ernst, um eine wirklich schöne Oberfläche zu erhalten, kannst du nur schleifen. Mit gröberer Körnung anfangen und dann langsam nach oben arbeiten. Beim 1000er muss noch lange nicht Schluß sein.

So you have loaded PLA material in Print Core 1 and PVA in Print Core 2, right? Your picture looks like you print the object with PVA and not PLA. Have you checked which extruder is selected in Cura for printing the object?

Hi I can measure the glass when I am at home, but I found these dimensions of a spare glass for the S5 (35.7cm x 27.8cm) Auto bed leveling could be a problem, it works by measuring the capacity between the aluminum panel and the unit in the print head. Putting another aluminum plate between will not work, I assume. And you cannot turn off the auto leveling on the S5 to use just a manual calibration. Another issue you should consider is, that the bed leveling is done with hot nozzles, and the nozzle hits the glass during leveling. So I am not sure if your PEI sheet will melt at this point. But if you mainly print PLA, why that effort? PLA prints fine on the glass without any issues and any other material too if you apply some glue or spray.

As far as I understood he needs 3 colors if he wants to print the model at once. Of course, if he wants to print each brick and glue them all together, then a 2 color print would be enough.

Could be if you measure it in some way, but not flexible that you have to take care about gluing parts together 🙂 I am not able to bend a TPLA part with my fingers,

Big project 🙂 For my understanding, you want to print the whole theatre at once or do you want to print each brick and glue them together? I am asking because you wrote: Printing in 3 colors (for the bricks) is nearly impossible - painting after the print is not an option?

I don't think so, from UM not, but you can check Polymaker PolyMAX PLA, I think they have some more colors.

Na sieht ja schon recht sauber aus. Du könntest noch eine Art Prime Tower daneben drucken, wie beim UM3, also ein Art Dummy Objekt um die Düse abzuputzen. Aber du müsstest das Objekt relativ nahe zum richtigen Objekt drucken damit es Sinn macht, dann hast es aber auch am Video drauf. Und vielleicht kannst du bei deiner GoPro noch die Autobelichtung abschalten, dann müsste das leichte Flackern im Video eigentlich auch weg sein.

I don't think it is caused by the two spools, this is normally working fine without problems. But it can have several reasons and you should try to find out if the problem is before your feeder or after it. As a third option, it can be the feeder itself, the knurled wheel can also wear out, especially if you print a lot of abrasive materials. Check also if your nozzle is clean and not clogged, maybe try if it is the same with another print core. Additionally, check your Bowden tube. The tube should be changed every year to keep friction low. You can open the Bowden tube at the feeder side, heat up your print core and feed manually filament through it. Then you can feel it there is something strange or not. Another reason could be that some materials are more prone to tangling than normal PLA for example, especially if it comes to the end of the spool and the filament is winded with a smaller diameter.

That was the plan 🙂 Thanks!

You will always have a z seem, but sometimes more sometimes less visible. But with your object, it is hard to hide the seam 🙂 @smartavionics Do you have more ideas, how he can get rid of his z-seam with this object?

It will not help with your first layer problem if you set z to something negative, it helps if the bottom of your model is not flat for example. You have probably calibrated too high before, it is much better now. You should also clean your glass with alcohol, it is dirty 🙂 which could cause also adhesion problems. And I recommend to use a glue stick (UHU), make some stripes on the clean bed and then distribute it with a wet tissue to get a very thin layer of this glue mix. Then you don't need a brim.

Please give us more information, which print core, which filament, which settings. If you can upload the Cura project, it would also helpfully, because then we can see the object and all the settings you use. And, was the printer working before or have you unboxed the printer and this is your first print?

I never tried it, but I think you can. If it makes sense is another question, but you should be able to do it, as far as I know. The 0.06 is not a limitation of Cura, it is just a profile and you have the 0.06mm in the recommended tab as the lowest setting. But you can set it lower in the custom tab (Layer Height) to whatever you want.

Not a sharp eye, but I saw your filename "Kaffeeschablone" (und damit wars klar 🙂 )

Du hast mehr Einstellmöglichkeiten falls das einmal notwendig sein sollte z.B. anderer Feeder wo du die E Steps verstellen musst. Weiters siehst du also mehr Parameter während des Druckens. Ich habe die Firmware auf meinem Um2Go, weil ich dort ein Heizbett verbaut habe und die normale Firmware damit nicht umgehen kann. Falls du diese Features nicht brauchst, dann gewinnst du nicht viel damit, auf der anderen Seite ist es schon nett wenn man die Möglichkeiten hat diverse DInge zu konfigurieren. (z.B. Lichtsteuerung, oder Display ausschalten während des druckens)

Ultimaker took some older versions offline, but they forgot to remove the link itself too from the website. But I don't know why they made this decision.

If this is the problem, then I would say, your feeder gears or the Bowden tube needs some maintenance. You should change the Bowden tube once per year or if you get problems. Maybe the friction inside the tube is too high and therefore you get problems. But if this is the case, I will not explain why you get a clogged nozzle.

And something else, after you have solved the first layer problem, I think you should print it not with PLA when you want to use it with hot drinks, because PLA is not very temperature stable.

It is possible that it is the model itself if the object is not lying flat on the build plate, you print in the air and if this is only a few microns then you don't see it on the first sight. But you can check it in Cura if you rotate the build plate to get a look at the underside. Check if the whole bottom is red, then it is actually touching the build plate. To try another object is a good idea, download any object you like from Thingiverse, there are a lot of 🙂 You can also enable the option "Automatically drop models to the build plate" in the Cura preferences, which should automatically put the object on the build plate.