Smithy
-
Posts
5,666 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
147
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Smithy
-
-
I think it is easier than the glue stick, because glue with a wet tissue is more work.
-
Hallo und willkommen im Forum
es sollte eigentlich ausreichen in Cura die Line Width (oder wie auch immer das im deutschen Cura heisst) auf 0.6 (bzw. 0.525) zu stellen.
-
PVA is a water soluble support filament, more infos here : https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/pva
A glue stick is normally based on PVA (not all) and has nothing to do with the filament. If you have PVA leftoulvers from your print, then you can mix it with water and you get an emulsion which is perfect for your bed adhesion instead of the glue stick. Why? Because it is the same result if you put on the emulsion on the glass or the glue stick.
-
Ahh ok, now I understood what you mean. This is a little bit different to Ulitmaker printers, but take a look in the printer profile in Cura, I guess you have to add some gcode for this "line", but it depends on your printer. Could also be a function of your printer firmware.
-
Hi
not sure what you mean, but I guess you mean the prime blob in the left front corner?
If so you can enable or disable the prime blob in the settings.
-
There is also a "wedge bot" you can print that you don't have to hold the lever which could be hard after a few seconds. (on the UM3, the S5 has a much better lever)
-
Currently nothing, just wait for one of the next releases.
-
1
-
-
50 minutes ago, Shadowman said:
And.... the quicker way is ?
Heat up the print head manually then pull the lever on the feeder and pull out the filament or feed it manually to load.
-
5 minutes ago, ctbeke said:
hint hint: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/pull/4926
Surprise surprise 🙂
-
Have you created the Cura printer profile from scratch after updating Cura or was it the profile you had before?
So maybe there was a problem with updating the printer definition/configuration and maybe it helps if you delete the printer in Cura and add it again.
-
HI
the minimum thickness of a wall depends on your nozzle diameter (usually 0.4), so you can print walls with a minimum thickness of 0.4mm. (There are some options and tricks to print even thinner walls, but that's another story).
Or do you mean something else with your first question?
Regarding lampholder, no haven't done it personally, but why not? Depending on your lamp temperature you have to use the correct material, maybe something more heat resistant than normal PLA.
There are a lot of possibilities to import files into Fusion, but I think you mean not Fusion but Cura? In Cura you usually import STL files and these files can be scaled before printing.
-
1
-
-
3 minutes ago, Patronus said:
So the backup has backed up the bug and restored the bug.
That's bad, but you could turn off autobackup, and backup manually, then you should have a working copy if the error occurs next time.
Not very helpful for you, but I never had this issue....
-
1 minute ago, MGarrity said:
I figured out the issue. It turns out the PLA was severed in the back and it was trying to force misshapen PLA up.
I appreciated the help!
I will keep this cataloged if I run into an issue again.
Thank you!
You are welcome!
I can remember I had also some issues with loading the filament in the beginning. But you get used to it very quickly, so don't worry. And when you are more familiar with your printer, there is then also another way to load the filament which is quicker, but for the beginning, do it via the load/unload menu functions.
-
I guess you were too fast pushing confirm after putting in the filament. This is also ok, but then it takes longer until extruded filament come out of the nozzle.
It works the way, that after feeding the filament into the feeder and press confirm, the printer moves the filament a defined way. I don't know how much, but say 25cm. Then the feeder slows down but still moves the filament forward. So if you are too early pressing confirm, the filament slows down too early and it will take longer until it reaches the hot end and the nozzle.
On the other hand, if you press confirm too late, the filament is pushed hard against the print head, which is also not good.
So I feed the filament in the feeder and wait until I see that the filament come out on the other end of the feeder and as soon as I see it, I press confirm.
-
Ok, let's try some steps:
- Unload the filament from the menu
- Load filament from the menu again. When you put in the filament in the feeder, wait before you confirm on the display till you see the filament a little bit coming out of the feeder box. Not too much, just when the end come out into the Bowden tube. Then confirm on the menu.
- FIlament will be transported through the tube to the head.
- Then the motor is turning slower, but it turns and when you touch the filament at the back, just before it goes into the feeder you should feel that the filament is still moving forward.
- Wait, it can take 10-20 seconds until filament will be extruded. (Depends how fast you pushed the confirm button before)
- If some filament is extruded, push confirm again -> ready
-
What about the loading process, is it working or not? Or do you get the problem during loading?
-
There is definitely a bug but happens not always. After my last aborted print nothing happened, started normal, so I was not able to catch the log.
-
Hi
which filament are you using the one from the box?
-
There is a problem with your STL file, seems that it is not watertight and/or some other problems. You can check it also in Cura with the x-ray view, there should be no red in the model, yours is full or red.
Review your model in your design software, if it is ok, then try an STL repair service, like the netfabb online service. (it's free)
-
Mir wäre auf Anhieb auch nur das Factory Reset eingefallen, das sollte man immer machen wenn man Firmware wechselt (also zwischen Original und Tinker) weil sonst bestimmte Variablen/Speicherbereiche möglicherweise nicht mehr zusammen passen. Aber wenn du das schon gemacht hast, könntest du nur noch schauen ob deine E-Steps passen.
-
1
-
-
Hab dir gerade in deinem anderen Thread geantwortet:
-
Hallo
hatte ich auch und du kannst problemlos ausschalten.
Es gibt da einen Bug, wenn du das Firmware Update über die Notification startest, dann bleibt es hängen. Restarte den Drucker, ignoriere den Firmware Update Hinweis und mache das Update über das Menü. Ich weiß jetzt gerade nicht auswendig wo der Menüpunkt ist um auf neue Firmware zu prüfen und upzudaten, aber damit klappt es dann.
-
You can try to print a little bit cooler, maybe 5° or 10°. But with PETG you will always get some stringing, if this is what you have seen. There are also some other settings, like Retract where you can tune a little bit.
If not, please post a picture.
-
You can use the Support Blocker on the parts where no support should be generated.
E-steps after reset.
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
The factory reset should be done AFTER the firmware change, so it should be your very first action with the new firmware.