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Posts posted by Smithy

  1. PETG tropft und zieht gerne Fäden auch beim Drucken. Der Aufwand (wenn überhaupt) möglich die Temperatur beim Leveln zu reduzieren, wird nicht dafür stehen, weil es dann später auch passiert.


    Nach dem Leveln bleibt dir aber noch genug Zeit mit einer Pinzette ein paar Reste von der Düse zu entfernen, zumindest mache ich das meist so, wenn etwas hängen geblieben ist. 


    Zum Startcode, der wird glaube ich schon auch noch von den S-Line Druckern benutzt, aber der kommt erst nach dem Leveln ins Spiel, nützt dir in dem Fall also auch nichts.

  2. I cannot give you a real solution for your problem, but Sketchup is known to produce non working STL files. It is not the app of choice to create models for 3D printing. So best you choose and use another CAD software for 3D printing you will always have troubles with Sketchup.

  3. I have the opposite situation with mine, when I level the bed, the screws are a little bit too loose, but it is still working for me. So I would really contact your reseller to solve the problem. I mean in fact it is just what @gr5 said, the reseller will probably bend the metal tab a little bit, so you could also do that, but on the other hand it is a new printer, so it is up to you. 

  4. The UM2C has currently no option in the menu to heat up the bed manually. You can just create a GCode.


    But as already said, you want to cool down not to heat up. With more temperature it will be harder to remove your print.


    If you have problems to remove your object from the cool glass you should try another adhesion agent. There are several products from Magigoo and also one for Nylon. Or try Dimafix. It often also depends on the brand you use. Some Nylon filament adheres better than the other one.

  5. Which material?

    It happens often with ToughPLA or ABS, that's the reason why you should use different adhesion agents for different materials. For ToughPLA I use a thick layer of glue, not the increase adhesion but to protect the glass. For ABS or ASA I use Dimafix. But it still happens from time to time with ABS that I my glass gets chipped.

    • Like 1
  6. ASA is very different, ASA sticks not so good to the bed and needs often an other adhesion agent. I use Dimafix or 3DLac spray.


    The first layer looks ok, in the 2nd picture there are some "waves" but they should disappear with the 2nd layer. Could be a temperature problem, maybe too hot, but I have such things also from time to time and don't care because it is not visible in the end.

  7. Hi and welcome to the forum!


    The normal UHU glue stick is perfect, make a few stripes and then distribute it with a wet towel to get a fine layer of glue. 


    But even without glue PLA should stick well to the glass. If not, then in 99% of the cases your leveling is not correct and you need to level closer to the glass. I know it from a lot of posts here that many users say, they have leveled the bed many times and it is still not working, but believe me, it is the leveling.


    When you level the bed with the included card, I level until I have the feeling the nozzle would scratch the card, but I am still able to pull the card out. So when you move the card should feel some resistance and not just a little bit.


    If it still not works, please post a picture of your first layer.

  8. Sorry to see your print head looks like this, but it happens more often than you think. When the object comes loose during the print, then the head moves the object around on the bed and the filament can fill up the head. To prevent this in the future, always check your bed adhesion, especially when someone uses ABS. And also important that the silicon cover in the print head is in a good condition.


    You can only use a heat gut to carefully soften the material. Be careful not to soften the rest of the head, but it should work to get out the ABS block. 


    If you want to try if heating up the print cores is enough, I don't think so, but you can try it, then just press the stop switches by hand in the left back corner, to "fake" the homing. I think the order is important, which of the two switches must be pressed first.

  9. My first idea is/was that your print core is clogged, but you have already checked that with hot/cold pulls. Another idea is that your front fan is blocked by some debris or not working at all. Check if the fan in the middle of the print head is working when you start your print job. The fan starts automatically when the print core heats up. This fan is needed to cool the upper part of the print core.


    Another possibility is that your feeder tension is too high, the marker should be in the middle position. 

    Or the feeder is dirty or blocked.


    Check also the Bowden tube if you see any debris.


    And software wise, it could be that you print too fast or too cold.

  10. 9 hours ago, Digibike said:

    Es darf nur kein "Volumen".....

    Kannst du mit einer geringeren Layerhöhe kompensieren.


    Scherz 😁

  11. Das ist dynamisch bzw, der Wand folgend nicht möglich. Aber du kannst das Infill Muster drehen, allerdings nur komplett über alles.

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